BadLuck's Pre 750 Drag Bike Build

[BadLuck]

I know there are alot of nay-sayers out there that claim a Kat isn't a race bike. Well, I'm building one. I bought the 96 750 for $900 with the intention of racing it our local short drag strip with my son. I ran it as I bought it and ended up with 4th place points in my class for the season. As riders, we all know we can leave well enough alone. With that being said, I am converting my Kat to a short track drag bike.

Most will find what I am doing to my bike useless to them, others might find the log usefull or maybe even inspire them to take thier bike to the next level. I do not condone, nor recommend anyone do what I am doing to thier bike. Drag racing is dangerous and I am only documenting what I have done, not what I recommend you do. If you do what I am doing your bike will run like sh1t on the road and will be useless to you. It will no longer handle well, will idle super high and will basically suck unless you race it on a closed track, in a straight line, at high RPM all the time.

That being said, the build begins. Here is what I intend to do to the bike.

Already have parts:

Yoshi full exhaust (bought from brentwoodkris, needs some work, NP)
Soupy's Performance Adjustable Lowering links: By far the highest quality I have found. Loweres 1-4 inches and everywhere between.
EMGO Air Pods

Need to get:

10-12 in swingarm ext (already know where I'm getting it)
Stage 3 Jet Kit

Like to have:

Complete Post rim (let me know if you have one cheap)

I aslo want to keep a log of my cost. I think thats important to others who want to do mods.

Cost:

96 Kat with 18,000 miles - $900
Battery - $45
Soupy's Performace Lowering Links: $119 shipped
Yoshi Exhaust: $125 shipped
EMGO air pods: $40 shipped

I started stripping the exhaust today. It will get stipped of all paint and rust and then be repainted. A brass wire wheel and a high speed drill is no match for rust or paint.

Attached are the bike in stock form and the parts I have in hand.

[loudnlow7484]

Ok, I hope you don't mind my input on this.... if you do mind I'm going to give it anyway! My advice here is based on the idea that this bike is JUST going to the track.... not to Burger King afterwards, not commuting to work, etc.

*If you insist on stretching it (which I wouldn't), don't do it that far. I have literally watched a guy put down low 1.70's (and sometimes in the 1.60's) 60' times on a Katana 750 without being stretched. If this is just a track bike, then put a short shock (like the R6 unit) and the lowering links on the back, and strap or otherwise lower the front as low as you can get it. The guy doing 1.70's had just a solid strut in the back, but I think it may be better to have a shock anyway as that little bit of squat helps with traction. Stretching the swingarm will cost you some traction...... the farther you stretch it, the less weight you have on the back tire, and the easier it will spin..... and since you're not going to make anything close to enough power to necessitate a 70" wheelbase, all you're doing is hurting yourself.

*If this is indeed a track-only bike, I would forgo the filters and just run velocity stacks.

*A 98+ back wheel is a good idea, but don't go cramming a 170 on it or anything. Remember that as you put a wider tire on the same wheel, it balloons out more, actually putting less tire on the road when you're upright. If it were my choice, I'd put a Shinko 003 in 150/60-17 on that post rim. They have a flattish profile already, and putting the 150 on that rim would maintain that flat profile, which is exactly what you want (and probably exactly why there are so many Shinko 003's at the dragstrip). Those tires are about as sticky as you can get a DOT approved tire to be..... but be forewarned, they wear out quickly!

*If you haven't done the Factory Pro shift kit, then I suggest that you do. If you run in a class that allows air shifters, I'd suggest that as well! I consider myself pretty quick, but nobody is as quick (or as consistent) as the airshifter.

*It's so ghey on streetbikes, but if you're really just going to race then I'd start stripping some weight off...... one of the front discs and the one caliper can go, the passenger pegs can go, the speedo/warning lights/turn signals can go, the 750 subframe, etc etc. You could run a really small battery if you want (I run a very small battery and my bike is my daily transportation!). Obviously the center stand can be removed.

*Gearing- figure it out. 500' is a really short track. I don't know what you're trapping at, but adjust your gearing accordingly. It sucks if you have to shift into the next gear right before you go through the traps.

*Cams- they make a BIG difference, and you'll be in there checking your valves over the winter anyway, right?

Good luck with all of it..... I'll definitely be keeping track of your build! :

[BadLuck]

Lost of good advice loudnlow. Thanks. Yes, this will be a track only bike. No point in riding it on the road with what I'm doing to it.

I'll address your points individually:

Tire - If a 150 on a post rim is flatter, then thats what I'm looking for.

Stretch - There are 2 kits available. One is a 6-8 inch and the other is a 10-12 inch. I have had the front end up pretty high a couple times during the launch and would like to keep it down as much as I can. I have had some issues stalling during the launch between 5500-6000 RPM, so would like to tack it up to 7000-7500 or so and still keep it down. I didnt buy the extender yet, so nothing is off the table.

Air pods - The pods I bought don't actually have a filter in them. Its just mesh really, so wont restrict air flow much at all.

Weight - I'll be stripping pretty much what ever the bike doesnt need.

Suspension - 1.7's in the 60? Wow. He must really have his light down. I'm still working on that. I've hit a few good ones and more than a few bad ones.

Gearing and cams - havent gotten there yet. Have way too much other stuff to do first.

This is going to be one of those "start ripping it apart, see what works and go with it" builds. Thanks for your input. This should take most of the winter and time\daylight\family\money could slow the process. It does need to be done by April though. I'll keep the thread updated as I move along. Hopefully I'll get the exhaust stripped and painted this weekend.

6.0's here I come.

[superbike]

This is going to fun to keep an eye on! Teddy might have a used extended swing-arm, if that is what you decide, and I believe it's the shorter version of the two. +1 on straping and lowering the front as well. I'll bet there are others on the forum like loudnlow that have suggestions and experience in this area as well...sound off if you do!

[BadLuck]

Teddy might have a used extended swing-arm, if that is what you decide, and I believe it's the shorter version of the two.

Hmmmmm........

The kit is about $200 and includes the caliper bracket. I believe shipping is about $20. Obviously I'll need the longer brake line and chain too.

Do you mind asking Teddy if he has the swingarm and associated parts? Might take me a little while to come up with the cash with Christmas coming up, but it would be good to know.

[suzukiray]

If you are ONLY going to use the 750 engine, go the 6-8 over. If you will EVER decide to put an 1100 motor in it & really get after it, go the 10-12 over. Start looking for a set of 36mm RSs & get the front end strapped down. An air shifter is a given. You will also need a better than stock ignition system if you are going to up the HP. It is EASY to get 120 hp @ the rear wheel with the 750 if you do things right. Fortunately, you have a later model & shouldn't have the trans issues the earlier 750s had. Get the better shift drum detent spring from FactoryPro. Also, if you can, get a 5.5 inch rim & the 150 Shinko will work like a SLICK!!! One last thing, Do NOT put a strut on the bike without WHEELIE BARS! The bike will 60 foot & et better, plus will be a LOT easier to ride with a correctly set up shock if you aren't using a wheelie bar. Let me know if I can help. I've been building & racing drag bikes for more than 30 years. Ray.

[BadLuck]

One last thing, Do NOT put a strut on the bike without WHEELIE BARS! The bike will 60 foot & et better, plus will be a LOT easier to ride with a correctly set up shock if you aren't using a wheelie bar. Let me know if I can help. I've been building & racing drag bikes for more than 30 years. Ray.

Thanks Ray. I'm sure I'll have questions as I move along. I wont be going with a strut since wheelie bars are prohibited on our track. Its just too short to lay down that much HP and still be able to stop. We're only running 500 ft, so a little short of an 1/8.

[loudnlow7484]

Suspension - 1.7's in the 60? Wow. He must really have his light down. I'm still working on that. I've hit a few good ones and more than a few bad ones.
.

His launch method, according to him, was to rev it to about 7k and when the light dropped just dump the clutch. The bike would spin a little, but it worked for him. I don't launch that way.... I bring the revs up and when the light drops I feed in more gas and less clutch to keep it on the boil the whole time. My only day at the track with this bike I was in the mid 1.80's all night, with a best of 1.83. I imagine I could have touched the 1.70's if I had been able to find a strap by then.

Start looking for a set of 36mm RSs & get the front end strapped down. An air shifter is a given. You will also need a better than stock ignition system if you are going to up the HP. It is EASY to get 120 hp @ the rear wheel with the 750 if you do things right.

Are the RS's really vital to getting that kind of power? I would love to see 120hp out of mine, but RS's are pricey little numbers.... I guess the positive is that they always seem to be worth the same, so if you ever don't need them anymore you can always pawn them off....

When you talk about the ignition, are you talking about something like a full Dyna setup, or something else?

[suzukiray]

400 bucks for a set of used RS 36s doesn't seem pricey to me. Yes, on the Dyna 2000 ignition. Ray.

[loudnlow7484]

400 bucks for a set of used RS 36s doesn't seem pricey to me. Yes, on the Dyna 2000 ignition. Ray.

$400 carbs on a $300 engine........ not pricey for the power given maybe, but pricey in relation to the rest of the bike!

[BadLuck]

Got just about the entire header pipe stripped today. Damn there was alot of paint on it. I'll finish stripping it and paint it tomorrow. I'll post pics then. Glad I found some time today to work on it.

[BadLuck]

Header pipe is painted. The extra prep work was worth it. It looks real good. Its crappy out right now so no pics at the moment. Will post some soon.

Looks like I can cut the center stand stop off the Yoshi midpipe since I wont need it.

Looking at the bike today I think I also want to remove the top tree plate that hold the risers and go with some clip ons.

More to come. I've been kinda busy working on my truck getting it ready for inspection. Also have a line on a 6.5 stretch swingarm that I may buy instead of the extenders.