[Spyderlord]

-Figured out why the caliper would not line up, the pivot bolt on the caliper arm was seized so i just broke the nut loose and re tightened it and now the caliper actually moves with the wheel like it is supposed to. All in all, i think that this mod went rather flawlessly being a spur of the minute kind of thing.

When i did the motor swap, i decided to reuse the pre600 carbs just for ease. But in order to do this i had to swap over the pre600 intake manifolds (hard rubber booties that bolt to the head). In doing this i overtightened one and it got a nice crack along some of the circumference of it. I inspected it and it didn't seem to extend to the inside of the boot and the bike started up fine and still does now. But every time i am on the highway and i go up Wurtsboro mountain (1,263 ft ASL) and really get onto the throttle it the entire bike will get into this weird state of like revving itself erratically. The first time it happened i figured it may have been a clogged jet or something. Then after a cleaning, it did it again during a race through the mountain, imagine having to explain to friends how your katana got whooped by a chevy silverado... This time it literally LIMPED home; completely unresponsive to my inputs besides braking, lunging and jerking all the way as if i had tourettes of the throttle wrist or something. My next thought was the cracked intake manifold under extreme negative pressure opened up and leaned out one of my cylinders (but wouldn't it just completely die?), the third thought was the elevation change may be too drastic for the carburetors, and lastly it may be my clutch slipping at high speed/high load. I weigh about 240-245lbs depending on what cow i ate that day... any of you guys have experience with a similar problem up a big hill or high speed.

P.S. i can get it up to 120mph with no problems on a flat straightaway coming out of town. But as soon as i get near that damn hill, it starts it's sh!t. Perhaps the amount of time at WOT has something to do with it as well - maybe my oil lines are clogged??? would that make it lunge and rev weird?

UPDATE: nvm, i fixed it with a new intake manifold. I took the cracked one off to try to patch it up temporarily and it just fell apart in my hand. Rush ordered a new tube and slipped the stock airbox back on and she's back to purring like a kitten and starting with no choke!!! So lesson learned: cracked intake manifolds WILL MAKE YOU LOSE RACES!!!

Anyway, i promised pictures of my latest update so here are a few. sorry for them being so late.

These are my new parts i got.
0709002017.jpg

[Spyderlord]

Very special update!!!

This morning is a very special update for any motorcycle owner, not just the modder and tinkerer. I bought my kat from a very mature adult who kept it garaged for his entire ownership and he ensured me the owner before him garaged it as well. I have it for less than a year and five months out of that it spent its nights in a shed while i was in class. Only since early March has it been outside in the driveway, with a universal bike cover repelling what it can of the crazy weather this year. My rental property has a gigantic backyard with an existing rotted out old water shed that i just keep shovels and rakes in as the roof is mostly collapsed and it has more birds' nests than spider webs. I am tired of not having a place to shelter my baby so i decided to just go and put my knowledge of building to use. I am constructing my own 10'x8' motorcycle shed/workshop, and i am going to tell you how you can do the same!

My first step was to decide what size i wanted to build. I asked around and got a few friends to call a few bosses and pretty much got that anything over 12'x12' needs a building permit to be constructed. So i decided to go on the safe side and do a 10'x8', as this will still give the kat plenty of room. It is important to know the sizes of lumber your Home Depot carries, for instance 2x4 studs usually come in either lengths of 6',8',10' or 12'. thus it is usually pretty worthwhile to chose a design that accommodates this sizing (a 7'x9' construction is going to be a pain in the but).

So i know i want a 10x8 with a big door and possibly a window. Now what? now plan it out. I started with the 'figure it out as i go' approach and just decided to buy a bunch of timbers while i was on lunch break one day. I wanted the floor to be sturdy to hold a good amount of weight so i opted to go with 2x6's for the floor joists. Framers usually space studs 16" apart on center, meaning that the center of each of the cross members of the floor are spaced 16" from the center of the next one. This makes a really uniform, and stable frame that looks like a ladder.

Figure out how much materials to get yourself. i know i will need 2x6x10's and 2x6x8's and i want to frame it with the 8's with 12" spacing. so i will need two 2x6x10's and ten 2x6x8's right? no! i need eleven 2x6x8's because 12" is the spacing between the studs. just like how you hopefully have five fingers but only four spaces in between them... i pray that will be the same after this project.

Another important note to know is the true sizes of common lumber. They really cheat you out of some wood when you buy a 2x4. The actual size if you were to measure it is 1-1/2x 3-1/2. same goes for 2x6's. I know that my ten footers are going to be on the outside and the eights are going to get nailed on the inside of them, so to keep the dimensions the same i need to account for the inch and a half thickness of the 2x6 on the outside. so i cut 3" (not 4) off the edge of each 2x6x8 before i frame it in (1 1/2 on each end).

Get a few cinder blocks to set this baby on and whip out that old hammer! I failed to buy pressure treated lumber (the green stuff with the formaldehyde soaked into it) so i made a point of keeping this thing off the ground so it won't rot in a month. A T-square is a good investment if you don't already have one for this project. Nail one of the 8-footers in between the ten-footers and then measure 16" or whatever spacing you want (i chose 12") down the ten footer and mark it. Nail in the next stud with the center of it on your mark, and just work your way to the end. If you did your math correctly it should end on the last stud being flush with the end of the ten-footers and being exactly 16" or 12" or whatever your s-p-a-c-i-n-g.

Here is my floor!!!
0809001636.jpg

Now that it is done being put together, now is a good time to make sure it is level. My spot is actually on the steepest slope on the property so it is going to take a lot to make it sturdy. it took more than a few trips to the store for more blocks to get it just right. A very long bubble level is so useful for building, and for mechanics too.

once it is level on all sides, it is time to put the floor down. I found a good deal on 1/2" OSB in 4'x8' sheets so that will be my floor material. three sheets will cover my space with 2 feet left over. plop it over your skeleton and have some fun trying to nail thru it and into a stud. The T-square became super useful for this because once you put in one line of nails, you can just put your square on them and pin your next one 12" from that and get a stud every time.

this is OSB plywood for those who are confused about what exactly it is (instead of "that flaky fake wood stuff that comes in sheets...")
0809001522.jpg

[1100Kat]

Great build! Being a motorcycle rider and working in the construction/building materials industry this thread has everything for me haha

[brentwoodkris]

Lookin good bro! Keep up the good work!

[Spyderlord]

Here is the floor skeleton with some of the OSB in the picture to the left, and my questionable mounting blocks. 0810001503.jpg
With the floor done I framed the walls yesterday. Decided to use a 2x3 bottom plate (flat piece of wood that the wall studs go into) and go with 2x3 studs. Chop the studs off at 6' and trim the top and bottom plates to 7" under 8' so... 89" - you will see why i did that! Left the 10' walls at 10' and decided i want a 60" sliding door all the way on the left side of the 10' wall. lucky for me my college algebra will not be coming into need for this project as a 10' wall is 120", minus a 60" door is well.. another 60" ! Unless you have an air nailer, it makes it a lot easier to nail the studs to the bottom plate while it is not attached to the floor yet! same as the floor beams, just keep your spacing and remember that you will need to have a way in and out when you are done so don't give yourself a 16" wide door.

I cut the 8' walls down 7" because that is the true width of two 2x4's laying flat. Again the ten foot walls will go on the outside of the 8' walls. see picture- 0810001955.jpg

Notice how the beam to the left is on the outside of the beam to the right? When you are done framing the 89" long walls, you then fasten a double top plate to the top of it- meaning take a good 8' 2x3 and center it over the existing top plate and nail it down. This longer top plate will interlock over the top plate of the 10' wall and keep everything together. I took another picture! 0810001955a.jpg

P.S. it really helps to have a friend or pay a guy on the street to help you stand up the walls while you nail them down.

Now the walls are up and it should look something like this! 0810001954.jpg

[1100Kat]

If your keeping the shed off the ground because you have regular lumber instead of ACQ are you going to build a ramp to get the bike in/out?

[thedike]

Going to need a lift to get up there, lol

[Spyderlord]

yes i was planning on building a ramp, and yes it is going to get lowered back down, it came out a little higher than expected, although a platform lift would be super pimpin'! I would be like the biker version of solid snake... no i will just lower it

[Spyderlord]

police put a damper on things... i got stopped doing 102 in a 55 (according to the officer "pacing" me) across two townships on the highway. apparently that is enough speed to get up to 15 days jail time, which i hopefully don't get. But up until that i got the roof on the shed and the walls all done. Now i just have to build my mega ramp and put on my mega door and get some lights in there, and a compressor. It might be awhile considering my lawyer fees and fines unfortunately but... THEY CAN'T STOP ME!!!! MUAHAHAHAHAHAHAHA

-Spyder out

[Danskat]

A It runs like a starving kenyan!

BWWWAAAAHAHAHAAHAA!

I've only had the chance to read the first few pages since I've gotta get out back and mess w my own ride before I'm completely out of time (work at 11 tonight) but I was ROTFLMAO about the story in the bathroom stall! LOL Subscribed!

[Spyderlord]

I finally transferred some pics from my phone to my email to you!!! here is the roof in progress. I was worried about it holding up to snow, but i guess if it can hold me (230lbs.) jumping around up there then it should be good
0828001513.jpg
0828001513a.jpg
0828001754a.jpg

[Spyderlord]

i built a ramp, made some doors and sealed most cracks and gaps in the shed with "Great Stuff" spray foam. It is coming along nicely. Vinyl siding to match the house is next.

[Spyderlord]

latest update: I got the ramp all set, mounted the doors and am just adjusting them now to close properly... -pita-. My bike refuses to start, i think it has something to do with the starter clutch or possibly the valve-train because the starter whirrs but the valves do nothing and the compression is ridiculously low. also, it started happening while i was trying to start it, all of a sudden it changed over to doing this like it would if something internal broke (like a cam chain). I pulled the left cover and the gears themselves for the starter system are fine, and i don't know where to start disassembling.

Due to this, I have decided on starting a huge winter project when i am done with the shed, i am talking custom fairings and aesthetics, and completely working my old pre-600 motor i was going to part out and have that be a race engine (there is more racing parts for the pre's)

I was thinking alot about trying an RF- 600 upper fairing and slim down the stock kat lowers. A set of miniature HID's and more of my LED frame lights all around wouldn't hurt. I also am going to try to modify the sub-frame as i believe the Kat uses a steel frame which is easily weldable, and maybe try to cover it with a sweet GSXR tail. I am 100% going to do an undertail exhaust, and do an integrated LED taillight, i already decided that.

Before i do all that, i just need to figure out what i did wrong trying to run UF wire into the shed so i can have lights, and also slap some siding on it to look pretty.

I will keep you peoplez posted when I start the spawning of the monster

[chrisgreer23]

Try doing the r1 Tail light mod if your looking for an easy LED solution: http://katriders.com/vb/showthread.p...ght=tail+light

Just so you know the turn signals are more yellow then the vid shows.

[Spyderlord]

Try doing the r1 Tail light mod if your looking for an easy LED solution: http://katriders.com/vb/showthread.p...ght=tail+light

Just so you know the turn signals are more yellow then the vid shows.

yea i actually saw that video before. that was what i had in mind, it is relatively hard to find tho. I have to dive into the abyss of ebay again while i am trying to gather all my busa parts for the rear end. wish me luck