My 96 Katana thread.

[600toStart]

I've had my Katana for about 2 years now. I bought it for $100 off a friend. He crashed it (he is fine) and just wanted to get rid of it. It sat in front of his house for a year before I got it.

At the moment and since I've had it I've had license problems so I haven't legally been able to ride it although I've ridden it through town a few times.

I want to make this my Katana build thread so I hope I put this in the correct category. I guess this will be my build blog so to speak.

So far she's been parked for the majority of the 2 years I've had her. Within the last 2 months I've brought her home from my buddies back yard. I walked it home about a mile and parked it in the garage where it's been sitting and I can actually see it and play with it now.

So far I've taken apart the carbs twice to clean them and am modifying the tail light with a turn signal/brake light integrator. I'm not done with either. I also cut up the rear fender to eliminate it from hanging out from under the tail.

I've been a member of www.celicasupra.com but at the moment I lost my Supra and now have no Supras (I had two).
It's amazing how much more room in the garage a project motorycle gives you compared to a small 80's sports car.

More to come and welcome to my build blog thread!

This was when I first got it all cleaned up. I used to ride this around town. Until I decided I wanted to keep it.


These are 2 pics before I cut the fender off.

[600toStart]

I purchased a tail light brake/turn signal integrator off ebay. I thought I was purchasing the tail light housing and I thought it came with two lights. It didn't it was a little box that integrated two circuits into one. With a single bulb tail light the integrator box was useless. My neighbor helped me turn this:

Into this:


Now:



However, the integrator unit doesn't work so I'm trying to exchange it for another one. I'm pretty sure that I can integrate the turn signals and brake circuits using relays but I haven't figured out all the quirks yet.

[600toStart]

So... I wired up one side with 2 relays to figure out if it was possible, because I was sure it was, to integrate the turn signals into the brake/tail.
I setup one relay to disconnect the brake when the turn signal is activated and another relay, using the power from the license plate light, to blink the bulb using the turn signal flasher. With the turn signal output going into the 30 terminal, there is not enough amps (or volts but I think amps) to power both the relay and the bulb so that's why I had to borrow the license plate lights power. It worked beautifully, separately. When activating the turn signal the light blinks. When activating the brake it works and when activating the blinkers with the brake on it works. But, together they cancel each other out and the light stays solid.
(Let me know if I'm not making sense because I usually cannot relay what I'm trying to say and it sounds like jibberish.)
I'll upload the schematics for better clarity but for now let's just say that, the first relay cuts the power of the brake signal when the blinkers go on while the brake is activated. A blinking signal is achieved this way. The second relay adds power using the blinker signals but since both relays are activated at the same time and the first one cuts power and the second one adds power the result is a solid light. Separately they work, together they work to keep the light solid on.
Confusing? It took me a while to remember how to wires a hi/lo head light system using relays but I figured it out. Now I need to take it to the next level and have this work; correctly; together.

My swing arm is damaged and requires it to be replaced. I'm now researching and asking questions about swapping in another swing arm. It was my impression that a 750 arm would allow a wider tire but I was wrong. It does, however, provide a smoother ride because the 750 arm is 1.5" longer and puts more leverage on the shock/spring. I may just go with this since I have to replace it anyway. Why not?

That's it for this update for now.

[600toStart]

Just bought an 82' Suzuki KATANA GS1000SZ Rear lower fender off ebay.
I think it will look bad-a$$. I hope it can be attached easily.

[600toStart]

Woot, just bought a straight/clean 91 600 swing arm. That is if no one out bids me while I'm at work.... Although I was thinking of putting in a 750, there aren't any on ebay right now. Oh well. $40 is hopefully what it stays at.

[rexazz2]

Go to Napa for a trailer wiring box
It is designed for the trunk of the car of new cars that have seperate signals from brake lights
it integrates them so your trailer lights work

here is a link to what I am talking about

http://sportbikeguy.com/garage/floor/signal.html

[600toStart]

Go to Napa for a trailer wiring box
It is designed for the trunk of the car of new cars that have seperate signals from brake lights
it integrates them so your trailer lights work

here is a link to what I am talking about
http://sportbikeguy.com/garage/floor/signal.html

Awesome! Thanks!!
I keep trying to get in contact with the seller to exchange the integrator unit but it's been unsuccessful so far.


I won the auction and got a swing arm for $40 shipped just like everyone here said should happen. Thanks guys!!

Edit: I just noticed this is in the Long Term Projects section. Thanks Mods.

[BigFish]

You have an interesting problem any EE's out there?

The second relay adds power using the blinker signals but since both relays are activated at the same time and the first one cuts power and the second one adds power the result is a solid light. Separately they work, together they work to keep the light solid on.

I know how to solve this using digital logic chips. To simplify this:

1) if BRAKE = OFF AND TURN SIGNAL = OFF THEN LIGHT = OFF
2) if BRAKE = OFF AND TURN SIGNAL = ON, THEN BLINK
3) if BRAKE = ON AND TURN SIGNAL = OFF, THEN LIGHT = ON
4) if BRAKE = ON AND TURN SIGNAL = ON, then BLINK

Boolean (with 3 outputs)

Brake, Turn Signal, Output (0=off, 1 = Blink, 2 = Light)

0, 0 = 0
0, 1 = 1
1, 0 = 2
1, 1 = 1

There are many, many ways to implement this in logic. In terms of space though nothing will be simpler than a 2 input mux chip. I forget whether they have 3 or 4 channels, but it doesn't matter cause you'd only need 2.

Here's the basic outline:

1) Voltage Regulator (about $5, + $7 for a board):
Get a positive voltage regulator that outputs 5 volts. The power input should come directly from the power circuit that is enabled by the ignition switch. Ground should connect to ground. Power output should connect to the power input of the MUX chip

2) MUX chip (about $4)
Get a TTL MUX 2 input, 3 or 4 channel MUX chip. TTL is more versatile than CMOS and should last longer, but requires 5 volts while CMOS will work with a wider voltage range.

Again power input should come from the 5v output of the voltage regulator. Ground should connect to the bikes ground.

3) Connect the circuits
Mux Channel 1:
Input 0: Connect Brake input to this, also connect this with a high impedance resistor to ground. I think 270k ohms is the standard...I don't remember off the top of my head though. The highest functional resistance (that will allow some current through to make the logic work) should be used.

Input 1: Connect Ground to this
Select Line: Connect Turn Signal input to this

How the MUX will work in this case:
Case 1: Turn Signal on:
If the select line goes high (turn signal is on) then the value of Input 1 (ground) will be passed to the relay. Since ground is connected the output will not trigger the relay. In this case the brake will not interfere with the turn signal.

Case 2: Turn Signal off:
If the select line goes low then Input 0 (brake input) will be used. If the brake is on then the value 1 will be output triggering the relay so the light will be on. If the brake is off then ground will be passed (via the resistor). The output will then be 0.

4) Connect a relay so that the output of the turn signal triggers a relay that causes the bulb to flash.

Summary:
1 & 2) Power the MUX
3 & 4) Connect the MUX so that the turn signal cause the light to flash if on, regardless the brake, and the brake works if the turn signal is off.

Of course you'd have to wire the other side to do that as well (with an identical circuit). All in all this is a simple project (15 minutes to 6 hrs depending upon skill and problems encountered) for anyone who has had a digital design class or has an electrical engineering background and probably a headache for most others. If SoCal = San Diego I could go to Fry's, pick up the chips and build a board for you. It would however be MUCH easier to get a pre made version if someone else already has a solution for this. I love that you've thought about this and I'm going to add it to the list of potential mods for my bike. Thanks!

Downside btw: the components can generate some heat, and in theory will eventually burn out. It might extend the life of the MUX to buffer its inputs via voltage regulators, inductors, resistors, mosfet, etc. I simply don't know. Any EE's with an answer for this?

[600toStart]

jtdybr,
You rock!

[BigFish]

jtdybr,
You rock!

Thanks. Just curious, what kind of relays are you using?

Couple more thoughts:

If you don't have access to a MUX chip (Frys electronics sells them, Radio Shack usually doesn't) you could use a 7404 and 7408 chip to do the same thing. The 7404 & 7408 are often at Radio Shack. Invert the Turn Signal, take the inverted Turn Signal and feed that to an AND gate along with the brake signal. The output of that would go to the brake relay. This would replace the circuit in step 3 above. PM me if you need help.

I was looking at your pics and noticed that the tail light has the usual paraboloid shape divided by a median to separate the two lights. This will work, but the best shape would be two paraboloids with the light at the center. Notice that when the light is on the edge is brighter than the middle. Basically what's happening is the light that's going towards the corner in the middle of the tail light is getting reflected towards the edge which is then reflecting it out the back of the bike. Having two paraboloid shapes would solve this.

[600toStart]

Thanks. Just curious, what kind of relays are you using?

Couple more thoughts:

If you don't have access to a MUX chip (Frys electronics sells them, Radio Shack usually doesn't) you could use a 7404 and 7408 chip to do the same thing. The 7404 & 7408 are often at Radio Shack. Invert the Turn Signal, take the inverted Turn Signal and feed that to an AND gate along with the brake signal. The output of that would go to the brake relay. This would replace the circuit in step 3 above. PM me if you need help.

I was looking at your pics and noticed that the tail light has the usual paraboloid shape divided by a median to separate the two lights. This will work, but the best shape would be two paraboloids with the light at the center. Notice that when the light is on the edge is brighter than the middle. Basically what's happening is the light that's going towards the corner in the middle of the tail light is getting reflected towards the edge which is then reflecting it out the back of the bike. Having two paraboloid shapes would solve this.

I'm pretty much a complete noob when it comes to making electronics. The relays are bosch brand and came off of my Supras I used to have. Or off other random cars from pick-a-part. They are automotive relays.

As for the mux chip, I'll definitely need assistance finding one and probably a head up on how to wire it up.

What is 'paraboloid?' I should change the little divider?

[BigFish]

What is 'paraboloid?' I should change the little divider?

http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Paraboloid

Look at the picture of the "paraboloid of revolution" If you stretch it a bit it becomes elliptical and similar to the shape of the original tail light. Now paraboloids have a unique property. If something is placed at a focal point (where the light bulb is) then they will reflect light evenly in a specific direction. The simplest version would involve adding a piece of reflective tape that is at a 45 degree angle to the divider you have put in. Basically if you round it out it will reflect light more evenly.

As for the mux chip, I'll definitely need assistance finding one and probably a head up on how to wire it up.

I think I have a few left over from a project. I might wire this up for my own benefit and post a few pics for you.

[600toStart]

Awesome, I would very much like to see this setup explained with actual pictures.
I understand the paraboloid now, thanks!

[600toStart]

Here is the fender sitting on the tire for a general mock up idea.
I think it looks nice but i would like to extend the fender in the front so it covers the tire more like it does on the very end of the rear of it.






Now, I just need to figure out how to secure this baby and make it cover more of the tire.

[BigFish]

That fender scares me just a little. When I pulled my front fender off it was warped presumably from some rock or object getting lodged in there at highway speeds. The stock clearance of my fender is much higher than your rear fender.