Ok ladies and gentlemen I am new here proudly living in cecil county maryland home of the junkies and thieves. Anywho back to me question(s) this is the first street bike I've ever owned I have only owned Harleys and grew up in a harley shop and I got this bike (it's hard being the family disappointment lmfao ) and I notice that not some things are different but every damn thing is different from shift times to starting the bike. When I'm going about 85 and she's revving at 7500 it vibrates (not speed shake) but straight vibration like I'm sitting on a giant vibrating machine (I'm sure you can imagine what it's like for my female friends) and I wanted to know is that normal? It's only from 7500rpm to about 8500rpm. And another thing if I was to buy a helmet holder and lock how the hell does it work? And where is the tool pouch supposed to be placed and what size is the spark plugs because a 5/8 is too small and 13/16 is too damn big or do I need the special tool in the pouch since mine don't have one ????? Please help since like I said I'm new to the crotch rocket family I will have other questions throughout the thread..... I hope people still read these threads.....
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Honestly not sure about the spark plugs though since I've used the same tool for most of my bikes for...8? years. Someone else's have to chime in on that one
I have done a LOT of freeway miles, my kat is pretty steady with way less vibration than the (few) harley/V twin bikes I've ridden. Lots of vibration usually indicates a lean condition. A/F screws changed to all being 2.5 turns out from lightly seated, and syncing the carbs should help quite a bit there.
For the helmet lock - I have a slightly different bike (you have generation 1, 88/89-97, we call them "pre" and I have generation 2, 98-06, called "post") so I'm not sure if it's the same, but on mine, its under the seat. As in, insert key, unlock and remove seat, and attached to the frame is a loop. Hook your helmet D ring over that, re-attach the seat, and all locked up.
Edit - my '92 1100 is the same, so your bike should be also.
Tool pouch supposedly goes under the seat, above the tail lights. My (used) kats didn't come with the kit, but that's what I've heard from others.
Other than what you had specifically said, hell yes it's different than a V twin. V twins make tons of torque. Kats...don't. Shifting at lower rpm doesn't work nearly the same. I usually get above 4k before shifting. ~6k is where the power band really starts to kick in, so for more aggressive riding, stay/shift above there.
Kats don't excel at anything. They are however, decent at everything, and cheap and reliable while doing it. Closing in on 115k miles on mine, never left me stranded on the side of the road. Every (literally, all of then) group ride of done with Harleys, someone has pulled up lame. So your family/friends might give you shit...but you get to wave at them as you cruise on by when they're broken downLast edited by shpielers; 09-08-2016, 02:16 AM.1998 Katana 750
1992 Katana 1100
2006 Ninja 250
2006 Katana 600 RIP - 130k miles
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Originally posted by Katrider21921 View PostOk ladies and gentlemen I am new here proudly living in cecil county maryland home of the junkies and thieves. Anywho back to me question(s) this is the first street bike I've ever owned I have only owned Harleys and grew up in a harley shop and I got this bike (it's hard being the family disappointment lmfao ) and I notice that not some things are different but every damn thing is different from shift times to starting the bike.
Originally posted by Katrider21921 View PostWhen I'm going about 85 and she's revving at 7500 it vibrates (not speed shake) but straight vibration like I'm sitting on a giant vibrating machine (I'm sure you can imagine what it's like for my female friends) and I wanted to know is that normal? It's only from 7500rpm to about 8500rpm.
While not 100% necessary, a couple of runs on a dyno will really clear up your a/f mix and show you where adjustments need to be made to get the smoothest ride.
Originally posted by Katrider21921 View PostAnd another thing if I was to buy a helmet holder and lock how the hell does it work?
Originally posted by Katrider21921 View PostAnd where is the tool pouch supposed to be placed .....
Originally posted by Katrider21921 View Post....and what size is the spark plugs because a 5/8 is too small and 13/16 is too damn big or do I need the special tool in the pouch since mine don't have one ????? Please help since like I said I'm new to the crotch rocket family I will have other questions throughout the thread..... I hope people still read these threads.....
Your plugs need 18mm thin walled sockets. Thin walled sockets is key here. Most normal sockets will be too thick in the correct size to get into the plug well far enough. There is a tool in the tool kit that is made to remove the plugs if you have one.
FYI... If you don't, start picking up some metric tools... EVERYTHING is metric on your bike. I know some things will be a close match, but it really will make things easier in the long run.
Also familiarize yourself with JIS screws. They look like Philips head screws, but your standard Philips driver will just strip the heads in a heart beat.
Krey93 750 Kat
Modified Swingarm, 5.5 GSXR Rear with 180/55 and 520 Chain, 750 to 600 Tail conversion, more to come. Long Term Project build thread http://katriders.com/vb/showthread.php?t=96736
"I've done this a thousand times before. What could possibly go wron.... Ooops!"
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Originally posted by Kreylyn View PostAlso familiarize yourself with JIS screws. They look like Philips head screws, but your standard Philips driver will just strip the heads in a heart beat.
Krey
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