Question about a 1994 GSX600F

[Katrider21921]

Ok ladies and gentlemen I am new here proudly living in cecil county maryland home of the junkies and thieves. Anywho back to me question(s) this is the first street bike I've ever owned I have only owned Harleys and grew up in a harley shop and I got this bike (it's hard being the family disappointment lmfao ) and I notice that not some things are different but every damn thing is different from shift times to starting the bike. When I'm going about 85 and she's revving at 7500 it vibrates (not speed shake) but straight vibration like I'm sitting on a giant vibrating machine (I'm sure you can imagine what it's like for my female friends) and I wanted to know is that normal? It's only from 7500rpm to about 8500rpm. And another thing if I was to buy a helmet holder and lock how the hell does it work? And where is the tool pouch supposed to be placed and what size is the spark plugs because a 5/8 is too small and 13/16 is too damn big or do I need the special tool in the pouch since mine don't have one ????? Please help since like I said I'm new to the crotch rocket family I will have other questions throughout the thread..... I hope people still read these threads.....

[shpielers]

We still read em!

Honestly not sure about the spark plugs though since I've used the same tool for most of my bikes for...8? years. Someone else's have to chime in on that one

I have done a LOT of freeway miles, my kat is pretty steady with way less vibration than the (few) harley/V twin bikes I've ridden. Lots of vibration usually indicates a lean condition. A/F screws changed to all being 2.5 turns out from lightly seated, and syncing the carbs should help quite a bit there.

For the helmet lock - I have a slightly different bike (you have generation 1, 88/89-97, we call them "pre" and I have generation 2, 98-06, called "post") so I'm not sure if it's the same, but on mine, its under the seat. As in, insert key, unlock and remove seat, and attached to the frame is a loop. Hook your helmet D ring over that, re-attach the seat, and all locked up.

Edit - my '92 1100 is the same, so your bike should be also.

Tool pouch supposedly goes under the seat, above the tail lights. My (used) kats didn't come with the kit, but that's what I've heard from others.

Other than what you had specifically said, hell yes it's different than a V twin. V twins make tons of torque. Kats...don't. Shifting at lower rpm doesn't work nearly the same. I usually get above 4k before shifting. ~6k is where the power band really starts to kick in, so for more aggressive riding, stay/shift above there.

Kats don't excel at anything. They are however, decent at everything, and cheap and reliable while doing it. Closing in on 115k miles on mine, never left me stranded on the side of the road. Every (literally, all of then) group ride of done with Harleys, someone has pulled up lame. So your family/friends might give you shit...but you get to wave at them as you cruise on by when they're broken down

[Kreylyn]

Ok ladies and gentlemen I am new here proudly living in cecil county maryland home of the junkies and thieves. Anywho back to me question(s) this is the first street bike I've ever owned I have only owned Harleys and grew up in a harley shop and I got this bike (it's hard being the family disappointment lmfao ) and I notice that not some things are different but every damn thing is different from shift times to starting the bike.

Yeah, you jumped from standard based low rev bikes to metric based high rev bikes. Lots of differences I'm sure, but there will be some similarities such as CV carbs being used on a lot of HDs.

When I'm going about 85 and she's revving at 7500 it vibrates (not speed shake) but straight vibration like I'm sitting on a giant vibrating machine (I'm sure you can imagine what it's like for my female friends) and I wanted to know is that normal? It's only from 7500rpm to about 8500rpm.

Any inline 4 engine will vibrate. The amount of vibration will vary based upon the a/f mix. Lean = more or excessive vibration. A jet kit + OEM air filter and Air box and proper tuning will generally resolve those issues. If your not sure of when, I'd suggest you also check the valves and adj as needed, clean the carbs when doing the jet kit install, adjust the a/f screws to 2.5 turns out to start with, sync the carbs after install, and ultimately fine tune the a/f screws.

While not 100% necessary, a couple of runs on a dyno will really clear up your a/f mix and show you where adjustments need to be made to get the smoothest ride.

And another thing if I was to buy a helmet holder and lock how the hell does it work?

Buy? Your bike is equipped with 2 helmet hooks under the seat. Lift the seat with key, you will see 2 larger flat hooks on either side rail. Hook your D ring for the helmet there, put the seat back on.

And where is the tool pouch supposed to be placed .....

On the 600cc pre kats, you have a storage pocket under the seat. Lift the seat, should be pretty obvious at that point.

....and what size is the spark plugs because a 5/8 is too small and 13/16 is too damn big or do I need the special tool in the pouch since mine don't have one ????? Please help since like I said I'm new to the crotch rocket family I will have other questions throughout the thread..... I hope people still read these threads.....

Remember when I mentioned standard vs metric.

Your plugs need 18mm thin walled sockets. Thin walled sockets is key here. Most normal sockets will be too thick in the correct size to get into the plug well far enough. There is a tool in the tool kit that is made to remove the plugs if you have one.

FYI... If you don't, start picking up some metric tools... EVERYTHING is metric on your bike. I know some things will be a close match, but it really will make things easier in the long run.

Also familiarize yourself with JIS screws. They look like Philips head screws, but your standard Philips driver will just strip the heads in a heart beat.

Krey

[skjeflo]

Also familiarize yourself with JIS screws. They look like Philips head screws, but your standard Philips driver will just strip the heads in a heart beat.

Krey

Or just replace them, when you can, with stainless hex cap screws (carbs & intake boots to engine) or proper Phillips screws (intake boot clamps come to mind) depending on application.