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[blazed426]

Since i've had my bike it has never idled right, in fact it wouldn't stay started unless you was giving it some gas anyways i take my slip on off a couple days ago to remove the packing and started the bike just to see how different it sounded and to my surprise it started right up and idles perfect and will idle until you turn it off and it has much better throttle response and everything. A buddy of mine said not to do that cause unless it was jetted it would mess the engine up, when i first got the bike another friend who has rode these bikes for about 20 years said it sounded to him like it had been jetted. Could this be true, is that why it starts, idles, and runs so much better or should i chill out before i mess something up?????????

[steves]

The biggest point of constriction on the Kat exhaust, is the collector where all the pipes come together.

I think it's anecdotal that it "idles better" with the packing out.

It sounds like your carbs are dirty, or poorly adjusted.

[blazed426]

re

first off thanks for the info, i had the carbs professionally cleaned and adjusted so i didn't want to believe that was the case but you just may be right. I was playin around with it a little while ago and like i said without the slip on it idles perfect and the throttle response is much better. i let it run without it for a minute and the put the pipe back on while it was running and a couple minutes later it died, started it right back up and it would just idle for a minute and then shut off so thats the only reason i thought the exhaust might have something to do with it.

[steves]

"professionally cleaned and adjusted" just means you paid someone... not that they did a good job.

[Kreylyn]

Pull the plugs and look at them...

Sounds like it's running a tad rich... turning down the A/F screws a touch might help that (turn in 1/4 turn or so).

Krey

[blazed426]

I know right, i took it to United Cycle which is a suzuki dealership, the worst part about it was that it took them 3 months to do that and replace the fork seals, they said "they were short on technicians", so that shoulda been my first clue, nobody around seems to want to work on older bikes so thats why i turned to you guys

just changed them last week, put ngks in it. The old plugs were horrible they had anti seize all over them and dirt they were shot, but i can pull one out and check it out

i can do basic stuff but i really don't know much about these bikes, for example by a/f i assume that means air flow but what really and where are the a/f screws?

something i forgot to mention in my other posts is that it backfires as well, pretty embarassing passin somebody ya know, lettin off the gas and pow

[Kreylyn]

I know right, i took it to United Cycle which is a suzuki dealership, the worst part about it was that it took them 3 months to do that and replace the fork seals, they said "they were short on technicians", so that shoulda been my first clue, nobody around seems to want to work on older bikes so thats why i turned to you guys

just changed them last week, put ngks in it. The old plugs were horrible they had anti seize all over them and dirt they were shot, but i can pull one out and check it out

i can do basic stuff but i really don't know much about these bikes, for example by a/f i assume that means air flow but what really and where are the a/f screws?

something i forgot to mention in my other posts is that it backfires as well, pretty embarassing passin somebody ya know, lettin off the gas and pow

I see a pre 600 in your profile, assuming that is the bike, and it's been jetted...

Air/Fuel screws. It adjusts the amount of fuel for the idle circuit. You need to lean it out by turning them in. 1/4 of a turn is a big adjustment, so start with that, then go from there.

If if blip the throttle and it drops below idle rpms imediately and wants to die... it's rich.

If you blip the throttle and it hangs and slowly drops to idle then it's lean.

Click the wiki link at the top of the page, search for "carbs 101". Download the pdf, it has pics... and will show you where the A/F screws are. If you have a jetkit in, the should already be uncovered for you.

Krey

[Wild-Bill]

a/f screws are the air/fuel mixture screws. They are the adjustment for the ratio of air:fuel coming from the pilot circuit. But that doesn't really matter right now. You've got two things to think about first.
1. You paid the stealership to do a job and they muffed it. They have a contractual obligation to you to get it right, especially considering the prices they charge. Talk to the manager and (calmly) stand your ground. They need to re-approach the job and it needs to be placed immediately on the top of their priority list as if they had had it since you first brought it to them and hadn't ever worked on it at all.
2. To prevent your ever having to take work to those buffoons again, start reading. The Carbs101/Carbs102 wiki (whichever applies to your bike) is a good place to start. Then do a search on carb cleaning and another on carb adjustment and read the forum posts. This will take a while. By the time you finish reading (about half of this) you should have learned more than enough to feel pretty comfortable thinking about your carbs.

Edit: Beat to the punch by Kreylyn. Doesn't change the advice, just makes it a +1 although I'd still make the stealership do the work.

[Timan]

First thing I'd is make sure that slip-on ain't stopped up. Mice or shop rag?

[blazed426]

If you look at my pic you'll see what i did, i took the vance & hines slip-on, took out the packing, cut it in half, drilled 4 holes and slapped it back together. It don't look bad i think and more importantly it starts, idles, and runs better than it has since i've owned it and i think it sounds awesome so mistake or not i did it.