Getting extremely hot while idling....

[neoxxt]

I finally got my Kat to run yesterday. I re-disassembled all the carbs, inspected everything, reset float height and reset the A/F ratio screws. Got everything back on the bike and it actually started!

I installed Ivan's Jet Kit and an ignition advancer. I left the bike idling in the garage so I could listen to it run for a bit while I putz'd around. The bike is idling at about 1500RPM with the idle screw entirely backed out so it isn't hitting the butterfly mech. Is this due to A/F screws not being correctly placed?

Also, while the bike was sitting there idling, it got extremely hot. Like, to the point where I couldn't touch the valve cover and whatever residual oil was hanging around on the block was smoking off. I realize the bike wasn't moving and it has the advancer now, but is this normal? I don't remember it ever being THAT hot last year.

[Rowdy]

is it oil cooled? which means it needs airflow through the oil cooler to get cool.

[IndyGunner]

its oil cooled meaning you need to be moving for the air to cool the oil to cool the engine. You caused your bike to overheat, it isnt broken.

[The CyberPoet]

(A) My guess is you left it idling more than 10 minutes... and it got hot enough that the oil lost it's viscosity due to thermal breakdown. I'd actually *highly* recommend an oil change at this point. The advancer just makes that time-to-overheat shorter when not drafting air, as the engine runs hotter. As Ed noted, the bike is air-oil cooled -- no motion = overheating.

On the RPM issue, was it at 1500 when it was overheated, or before, when it was still cool?

(B) Ignore Ed's advice on jetting -- he quoted the right settings for the OEM jetting. Proper jetting for an Ivan's is 3.5 to 4 turns out on the pilot jets (3.5 for better mileage, 4 for best performance). Remember 1 turn = 360 degrees... a lot of people get confused and count 180 degrees as one turn.

Cheers
=-= The CyberPoet

[HemiKat]

On the oil change. My oil got hot and made my bike run horrible. Royal Purple sucks btw!

[IndyGunner]

(B) Ignore Ed's advice on jetting -- he quoted the right settings for the OEM jetting.

ahh, i must have missed the part where he said he had an ivans kit.

[The CyberPoet]

On the oil change. My oil got hot and made my bike run horrible. Royal Purple sucks btw!

There is no better oil for dealing with extreme temps on the market than Mobil 1 -- it's vapor temp is about 100 degrees higher than most motorcycle motor oils, and a good 40 degrees higher than the next closest competitor.

I'm not saying it's the best oil in the universe, I'm just saying in that one particular aspect, it's the best. Personally, I mix it 50-50 with Castrol GPS.

Cheers
=-= The CyberPoet

[Pa Kat]

WELL, I'm SO glad I read this! My bike did the same thing, and since the overheat, it's been doing it a little more often. Hopefully I can get the oil changed on Monday. Thanks guys!

-Mike-

[ICEG]

you have to ride it but change the oil first

[neoxxt]

I realize it relies on the oil for cooling and air needs to be moving over the bike to keep it at a reasonable temp. I just didn't realize it could get THAT hot THAT fast. It must suck for the guys in warmer climates and traffic prone areas.

CP : 1500 was right at startup. Like I said, the adjustment screw isn't even hitting the butterfly mech. I haven't sync'd yet, either. I started it one other time yesterday and I think the cold idle was a bit lower. Oil change will happen regardless. I just put this filter on, can I leave it for one more change or should I change the filter every oil change as well? I would on a car, but I thought I read somewhere we can leave ours on for two changes....

I must say, though, I'm so excited. After the valve adjustment and jet kit, it just sounds so much better. I'm really looking forward to riding and feeling the difference!

[scottynoface]

I realize it relies on the oil for cooling and air needs to be moving over the bike to keep it at a reasonable temp. I just didn't realize it could get THAT hot THAT fast. It must suck for the guys in warmer climates and traffic prone areas.

CP : 1500 was right at startup. Like I said, the adjustment screw isn't even hitting the butterfly mech. I haven't sync'd yet, either. I started it one other time yesterday and I think the cold idle was a bit lower. Oil change will happen regardless. I just put this filter on, can I leave it for one more change or should I change the filter every oil change as well? I would on a car, but I thought I read somewhere we can leave ours on for two changes....

I must say, though, I'm so excited. After the valve adjustment and jet kit, it just sounds so much better. I'm really looking forward to riding and feeling the difference!

Yes, it absolutely SUCKS in traffic.

The synch should help a lot. Your A/F at idle might also be a tiny bit off.

I replace the oil filter on every other change, or about every 6-8k miles.

[The CyberPoet]

I realize it relies on the oil for cooling and air needs to be moving over the bike to keep it at a reasonable temp. I just didn't realize it could get THAT hot THAT fast. It must suck for the guys in warmer climates and traffic prone areas.

It does -- we look for alternative routes to keep moving, and use very high-temp oils (like Mobil 1 20w50). I ran an oil-temp gauge in my kats for years, so I'd know what was going on... worst was always doing an interstate run followed by hitting backed-up traffic (traffic jams or long red-lights on surface streets) -- I'd either detour to keep moving if viable, or shut-down for the traffic jams.
The detour-to-keep-moving option also keeps air flowing through my perforated leathers, so that's always a preferable solution anyway

CP : 1500 was right at startup. Like I said, the adjustment screw isn't even hitting the butterfly mech. I haven't sync'd yet, either. I started it one other time yesterday and I think the cold idle was a bit lower. Oil change will happen regardless. I just put this filter on, can I leave it for one more change or should I change the filter every oil change as well? I would on a car, but I thought I read somewhere we can leave ours on for two changes....

OEM Suzuki oil filter is good for another 10k miles with no issue -- just unscrew it and let it empty out when you do the oil change, then reinstall. You want as much of the now viscosity-stripped oil out as possible.

Do the carb sync -- you'll probably find the idle drops during the sync (once sync'd) and the problem with the high-idle when cool/warm will be handled. If not, look for one of the rubber sync caps to be torn, or you to have forgotten to attach the drain tube to the airbox.

Cheers
=-= The CyberPoet

[Tony The Tiger]

Buy some cheap fans to cool your bike's motor when tinkering with the carbs
or any other work that requires the bike to run for more then 5 minutes!

[aaron210]

Since you overheated you need to change the filter again and oil but normaly I only change mine every other time. As for it gettting hot it will always do that sitting still in traffic unless you install fans. I spaced my oil cooler foward 2 inches and installed a custom bracket to hold a R1 fan behind my cooler and I have not had an issue with it in traffic since.