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Leather cleaning... it was time...

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  • Leather cleaning... it was time...

    Realized on the ride home last Sunday that as we were riding through the torrential downpours, my leathers were actually getting soaked in one area... That is to say, the leather itself was sucking up water (not just what was coming through)... a sign from the gods that it was damn well time for me to clean & recondition my leather gear.

    Now, normal leathers aren't too tricky -- you just use saddle soap per the instructions on the can, let dry, buff out, optionally seal with a spray sealant (let dry again if you do), then smear up with mink oil or wetpruf paste or neatsfoot oil or another good leather conditioner. Let that dry to haze and buff again...

    But, living in Florida, virtually all my leathers are perforated leather. That makes the process a bit more tricky... Saddle soap, but get into a froth before it goes onto the leather (swirl it in the can with your damp cloth). Wipe away excess with a damp cloth as normal, but then take the gear into the shower and rinse it off well, making sure no soap is left in the holes. Allow to dry for a couple days (in the A/C at this time of year in Florida, or you'll end up with mold), then buff out any remaining wax/residues. Take it outside and spray liberally with the Camp Dry WetPruf or other leather sealant, double-spraying the seams. Let dry, back into the A/C to dry out the rest of the way (another day), buff out... now it's finally ready for the condition -- except that something like mink oil will clog up the holes, so you need a spray-based conditioner for everything except the seams & solid areas. Break out the lexol conditioner. Follow the directions...

    Well treated leather lasts virtually forever (barring accidents) and repels water... Bit of work, but worth it

    Gotta do the saddle some time soon too.

    Cheers
    =-= The CyberPoet
    Remember The CyberPoet

  • #2
    The internet tells me that other chemicals have come a long way since saddle soap
    -Steve


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    • #3
      I've never found a better actual cleaning solution that saddle soap... they may exist, but I'm not familiar with any.

      Cheers
      =-= The CyberPoet
      Remember The CyberPoet

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      • #4
        because you didnt google it!

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        • #5
          http://katriders.com/vb/showthread.php?t=57384
          -Steve


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          • #6
            nice post steve ^

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            • #7
              For leather boots I have always used SnoSeal. It is a sealant based on bees wax. I would set my oven for the lowest setting (225) and then put the boots in for about 5 minutes. Take them out and then smear the SnoSeal on them. The heat melts the wax and it soaks into the leather. I then wipe off any extra wax and then put them in the oven for a few minutes to get them to dry up. After the come out I buff them with soft rag and they are ready to wear. I have worn boots treated this way for hours in water while fishing and never got wet feet.

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              • #8
                Originally posted by cazait View Post
                For leather boots I have always used SnoSeal. It is a sealant based on bees wax. I would set my oven for the lowest setting (225) and then put the boots in for about 5 minutes. Take them out and then smear the SnoSeal on them. The heat melts the wax and it soaks into the leather. I then wipe off any extra wax and then put them in the oven for a few minutes to get them to dry up. After the come out I buff them with soft rag and they are ready to wear. I have worn boots treated this way for hours in water while fishing and never got wet feet.

                no problems with the parts of the boot that is glued coming apart?

                “Programming today is a race between software engineers stirring to build bigger and better idiot-proof programs, and the universe trying to produce bigger and better idiots. So far, the universe is winning.”

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                • #9
                  martha stewart over here geez

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                  • #10
                    Originally posted by BarMatt80 View Post
                    no problems with the parts of the boot that is glued coming apart?
                    No problems as long as you do not leave them in for along time. All you are looking to do is warm them up. The only parts that get a little bit hot are the metal eyes on some boots. They only stay in for a few minutes but if you are concerned you could always leave the oven door open a crack. You could always use a hairdryer and do a section at a time.

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