[40something]

Not to try and tell you what to do here, but over the years I have learned to replace my tires every three years no matter how good they look. After that much time they start to get hard and that promotes them slipping out. Use the example from your car. You put new tires on they grip very well even in wet weather. After about 3 years you notice that they are starting to spin out when starting off from stops in the wet. Tires are getting hard even if tread is good. Bike tires are no different except that you are running on 2 not 4 so it becomes even more important.

Just mt 2 cents on this one.

[600Kat4EB]

glad you didnt break anything like i did over the weekend. I also locked up the rear brake but in a different situation. I agree on the head-phones but to each his own. again, glad you are ok and the bike as well.

[md86]

Now for the one last piece of info which will get people to yell at me. I had ear buds in and was listening to mp3's at the time. If I hadn't been doing that, then I probably would've heard the warning signs from the rear tire BEFORE it kicked out sideways.

USUALLY when my tires are at or near lock-up , I hear nothing . ONCE I did . Before I hit the deer . I was listening to Evanescence at the time : . STILL heard the tire howl . Rest of the time , sliding it's silent .

[Zepp]

You shouldn't have to listen for a locked up tire, you can feel it. Your bike will communicate to you through feel, learn to pay attention to your bike.

[Salz07]

I agree with Zepp. And MD !!learn the feel of the bike.

[Robgsxf750]

Can't add much more. Good on you for saving your butt. Sounds like more luck than skill, touch wood.

Maybe check what gear you're in and what speed you're going. Keep the revs up nice and high. It's much more fun and you can use engine braking a lot more than the front or rear brakes.

[md86]

I agree with Zepp. And MD !!learn the feel of the bike.

Yeah , well , I've always known that's been my major weakness . I just don't feel stuff so well . Only thing I seem able to notice is when my tire's flat , or I'm not running on all cylinders .

[The CyberPoet]

Glad to hear that you came through it OK...


Now, here's my two cents:

Adjust the rear brake linkage so that in a normal sitting position, you can't lock-up the rear completely while seated. The linkage is located by the master-cylinder for the rear brake and is a bit of a PIA to get to, but set correctly, with you in a seated position, you should have to take your foot off the footrest to get enough stomp to lock it up totally (and be able to get within 1/2 mm of that lock-up point with your foot on the peg extended all the way).

Decades ago, when bike shops knew customers by name, this kind of adjustment was often standard par-and-parcel (along with handlebar & lever adjustments) when you bought a bike or got the rear brake serviced. These days, you have to do it yourself and even the owner's manuals don't talk about setting up a bike specific to a rider in the "controls" sense.

Cheers
=-= The CyberPoet

[ygolohcysp]

I appreciate that input. I've read about it a few times before, but I probably should do that. But how do I know at what point the rear tire will lock up? Just test it?

[The CyberPoet]

I appreciate that input. I've read about it a few times before, but I probably should do that. But how do I know at what point the rear tire will lock up? Just test it?

With the bike on the centerstand, you sitting on it, you test it with your foot on the brake and the clutch released while feeding it some gas. You ought to be able to figure out that magic position where you're capable of dragging hard with your foot at pretty much absolutely-full extension without stalling the bike. Since everyone has a different sized foot and a different range of motion, the setting is very particular to you individually.

Cheers
=-= The CyberPoet