colrorite paint FYI

[Badkitty]

I ordered some aerosol paint from http://www.color-rite.com/ to touch up some scratches and paint my lower fairing black. Well i'll say the paint matches great and even looks better than how the original looks now , BUT if anyone is going to buy paint from them DO not buy the aerosol clear, its not scratch resistant at all and fingers can leave marks. Buy the KK7 Urethane Clear. Its a catalyzed clear coat and hardens like the paint on ther gas tank. Now i have to buy more black and repaint everything and use the KK& as color-rite told me

It's impossible to apply the KK7 clear over the UCA150 clear. You
will get a reaction 100%. The only way to do it is to, basically, start
over from scratch."

So word to the wise. Im not saying anything bad about the company or product by NO MEANS...im just giving a heads up.Cause at $30 a pop for areosol can , OUCH!!

[The CyberPoet]

I ran into a similar problem last year with color rite aerosols when I tried to repaint my givi saddle bags to match the bike -- not a mismatched clearcoat issue, but a humidity issue (the two-part clearcoat sprayer pulled water out of the air and threw it onto the finish as ice chips here in Florida).

Yes, I know someone is going to be rolling on the floor laughing about the original story (a child in my condo complex sprinkled blue glitter on the wet paint to help "make it pretty"). Since it was just saddlebags, in the end I just gave up and went with a Krylon derrivative with fairly good results (although not as nice as having perfectly color-matched saddlebags).

Cheers
=-= The CyberPoet

[Anonymous]

(a child in my condo complex sprinkled blue glitter on the wet paint to help "make it pretty").

You were so owned by that kid...

[WildKat]

Re: colrorite paint FYI

I ordered some aerosol paint from http://www.color-rite.com/ to touch up some scratches and paint my lower fairing black. Well i'll say the paint matches great and even looks better than how the original looks now , BUT if anyone is going to buy paint from them DO not buy the aerosol clear, its not scratch resistant at all and fingers can leave marks. Buy the KK7 Urethane Clear. Its a catalyzed clear coat and hardens like the paint on ther gas tank. Now i have to buy more black and repaint everything and use the KK& as color-rite told me

It's impossible to apply the KK7 clear over the UCA150 clear. You
will get a reaction 100%. The only way to do it is to, basically, start
over from scratch."

So word to the wise. Im not saying anything bad about the company or product by NO MEANS...im just giving a heads up.Cause at $30 a pop for areosol can , OUCH!!

yeah its not cheap thats for sure.. between the primer, paint and clear, i dropped about 140.00 on paint for my cowl and belly pan.

[Badkitty]

hey wildkat , how does catalyzed clear feel compared to original finish? I cant find anyone around here that does painting on plastic and doesnt charge $200 a part, but im not using krylon cause you know the first bug i hit is gonna chip bad.

[The CyberPoet]

hey wildkat , how does catalyzed clear feel compared to original finish? I cant find anyone around here that does painting on plastic and doesnt charge $200 a part, but im not using krylon cause you know the first bug i hit is gonna chip bad.

(A) Yes, I know I'm not WildKat, but I figured you'd like more answers rather than fewer...

When I tried the two-part catalyzed clear -- aside from the humidity induced snowflakes -- the finish felt exactly like the OEM finish. Meanwhile, krylon's new Fusion line works awesomely on plastics and already-painted-plastics if you sand it rough a little (that's what I ended up using on the saddlebags), but doesn't come up a gloss finish -- I'd use it on a belly pan but not any other fairing pieces. Then again, I'd probably be quite content to use truck-bed lining as belly-pan spray as well if I needed to cover up my belly pan.

Cheers
=-= The CyberPoet

[Hegmann1391]

i'm lookin to order some paint ans clear coat myself. does the kk7 kit some with the "snap on tool" sprayer that it talks about??? cause i don't wanna b buyin somethin and then havin to buy a piece later on.

[SweetLou]

I like the duplicolor clears and primers. The Color-Rite only had the fan tip on the color can, so you can actually get a nice even coat. I just doen't understand why they don't put it on there other stuff.

[Badkitty]

ya i know...but i still got a nice smooth finish from the clear with a round spray tip so its not bad, just had orange peel texture alittle

[Mojoe]

I have always been fortunate enough to have the proper set-up for painting, so my opinions are biased. I won't even think about touching an aerosol spray can to do a bike. That is ok if you want a cheap "low class" job, but nothing can compare to doing it properly. No offense to those who do it this way, but compared to the real deal, it is "cheap".
I don't care how much your clear or paint shines....the whole job is inferior if you can see any sanding marks what-so-ever in the paint.

I have to say, you guys pay some crazy prices for paint. I actually think it is cheaper here in Canada.
It cost me about $150 for paint/clear/primer to do my bike. And with that $150, I have enough to do maybe 4 bikes. I can paint a car for about $100.

Badkitty....painting on plastic is quite easy. I actually sandblasted my plastic. The results were a rough dull gray finish. I just applied a coat of plastic prep (sort of like an adhesive), then coated it with epoxy primer (high build and almost zero sanding). Then it was the basecoat followed by the clear.
If you want a paintjob to last like OEM, you have to sandblast...or remove all paint down to the plastic. Plastic is not like metal...it flexes. It will eventually flake and peel. If you just keep applying new paint over old, eventually you will end up with a mess. Especially if you have a bike that is ...um...let's say yellow.....and you paint it black. It only takes a flake the size of your small fingernail to come off and it will stand out like a sore thumb.

At $30 a can for aerosol, I can buy a cheap compressor and a spraygun for what it must cost to do a bike in that fashion.

But like I said....I am biased in my opinion. I grew up around a paintshop and was painting wagons when I was like 7. My dad insisted I learn the trade.

[Selby]

Then again, I'd probably be quite content to use truck-bed lining as belly-pan spray as well if I needed to cover up my belly pan.

That brings back some memories. We were hunting on the Roan Plateau here in Colorado a few years back and ran into a guy who had painted his entire ancient International Harvester in truck-bed lining. Not just a single color....a nicely done two tone with blue on the bottom and tan on the top. He was laughing at our GMC Yukon; calling it a "soccer mom car". Compared to his beast, I couldn't argue.

[loudnlow7484]

$30 a can for aerosol?!?! That's an awful lot. I think I paid $6-7 a can when I painted my gixxer back in the day. And yes, it chipped badly. I wish I would've clear coated it, or at least done proper prepwork. No matter, I wrecked it and sold it anyway. Painting plastic/thin fiberglass is never fun, because the paints that are flexible enough to not crack when flexed usually chip easily, and the tough as nails paints usually crack badly when flexed.

[Mojoe]

the real problem with any aerosol can is the lack of an adequate flex agent. that is where you will get your chipping because it is just too brittle.
If done properly, it will come out like the bumpers on cars....very flexible.

[Süsser Tod]

Mojoe:

What kind of materials would you recomend for painting a bike, with a spray gun???

What kind of plastic prep??? (Any comercial brands or composition?)
What kind of primer
What kind of paint
what kind of clearcoat

Also, can you do a brief write up of how to paint a bike with a spray gun?


I have a compressor and a cheapie spray guy, planning on buying a "good" gravity gun to paint my bike, as the PO did an extremely cheap paint job on it (you can see the old decals under the paint )

[Mojoe]

Mojoe:

What kind of materials would you recomend for painting a bike, with a spray gun???

What kind of plastic prep??? (Any comercial brands or composition?)
What kind of primer
What kind of paint
what kind of clearcoat

Also, can you do a brief write up of how to paint a bike with a spray gun?


I have a compressor and a cheapie spray guy, planning on buying a "good" gravity gun to paint my bike, as the PO did an extremely cheap paint job on it (you can see the old decals under the paint )

If I was you, the first thing I would buy before a spraygun is a sandblaster. You can get a cheap 10 gallon one on ebay for under $100 shipped, or if you would not use it much after that or have no space to keep one, get a gun style one. It is like a spraygun, but sand instead of paint. Then I would reccommend sandblasting the parts you want to paint....plastic included. Don't let it intimidate you.....it is quite easy to do. Just hold the nozzle 2ft away to start, then bring it in slow until the the paint starts to come off...and keep it moving from side to side and large circular motions. The only thing you really have to watch is too long in one spot....it will "curdle" the plastic. It is really quite easy to do, minimal mess compared to liquid paint strippers, and it will remove all those stickers as well.

I really have no specific kind to suggest to you. I usually use RM myself, but believe it or not, Sherwin Williams auto paint actually works quite good and is quite a bit cheaper. Just keep them all the same brand to avoid conflicts. Any place that sells automotive paint will surely help you pick out all that you will need. I would suggest epoxy primer because of the high build and smooth finish (minimal sanding), but it is at least 50% more than reg primer pricewise.