Chris, were you using an impact driver or just a regular hand held? I'm guessing hand held. I always use an impact driver for this reason & then go to allens. When you said this will be a track bike did you mean road race or drag? Also, you will find it DIFFICULT, to say the least, to get 100 at the back wheel on a 600. Or did you mean crank? Or are you making it bigger than a 600? You got a GREAT amount of spares & extras with the 36s! That's cool! Ray.
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I pretty much know a 600 tuna will not do 100 HP at the wheel, if I can get like 90 at the wheel I'll be happy. The crank I'm pretty sure will exceed 100. I used a hand held, cause I didn't want to hit those things with an impact. I've broken a CV carb doing that before, ok it was the diaphragm cover on a 88-89 600 carb, but still. I didn't want to take a chance. Road race, I find going fast in a straight line on a bike pointless. They are meant to be fast around turns. No, I'm using the OEM pistons and I simply honed the cylinders. I removed 0 material. It's still 599 cm3.Last edited by arsenic; 04-24-2009, 08:02 PM.
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Chris, you know the next step is magnesium wheels, right? Best handling upgrade you can probably by for a Kat after good tires and good suspension... Maybe even more valuable than good suspension...
Cheers,
=-= The CyberPoet
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The Best Metal Steel Aluminum Motorcycle Tire Valves in the World, plus lots of motorcycle & Katana (GSX600F / GSX750F) specific help files.
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Very nice Chris- can you e-mail me a copy of that Yosh build up as well? I always love those kind of articles! I am saving my money for HP for my 1127 though, 600 gets a couple things.
You pay alot for those carbs?
I am wondering if EFI is not more cost effective for HP and tune-ability than the flat siders?
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Originally posted by suzukiray View PostChris, were you using an impact driver or just a regular hand held? I'm guessing hand held. I always use an impact driver for this reason & then go to allens.
Carry on ....Last edited by md86; 04-25-2009, 02:59 AM.
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one of those stripped screws, I actually drilled the head off. Once I drilled the head off, took the float bowls off, I took the threaded part out with my hand. The head was torqued on super tight. There was 0 rust or anything holding the screw in.
here's Yoshimura's dyno results for there "power 600" if I can match and/or exceed that, I'll be happy.
Last edited by arsenic; 04-25-2009, 02:25 PM.
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