The cam chain is maintenance-free pretty much . Don't mess with it unless there's a problem with it . If it ain't broke don't BREAK it !
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Originally posted by illinoiskatHow do you maintain the cam chain? Just change the oil?
If you're familiar with cars, this might make more sense:
Most cars ship with timing belts. A few car manufacturers use timing chains (alpha romeo comes to mind) or timing gears instead. All of these systems do exactly the same thing on a car engine as a cam chain does on a motorcycle -- keep the valves opening and closing at the right time compared to the piston's up-down movement by syncing the cams (which control the valves) to the crank (which moves with the pistons). Unlike a timing belt, a timing chain is far less likely to stretch, snap, fray or otherwise need replacement (because steel chains are far hardier than reinforced belts), and since the Kat's cam chain sits in the center of the engine (as do most transversely-mounted 4-cylinder motorcycle engines), it make sense to use the stronger solution for longer life & reliability. Additionally, chains have an advantage in very-high RPM situations.
The issue with chain slack (unlike belt issues) isn't one of jumping a tooth (common problem with stretched belts), but instead of changing the timing or placing lateral loads on the cams' length (and subsequently cam bearings). There is a tensioner assembly designed to take up excess slack, but this assembly has been known to not be up to snuff -- the spring gets weak or clogged with oil-gunk from cheap oils -- and thus doesn't do it's job.
Cheers
=-= The CyberPoet
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Originally posted by md86Huh , I have good enough passing power from about 4-5 grand on up . I've passed MANY cars going 50-ish from 6th gear with no problem .
Cheers
=-= The CyberPoet
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Originally posted by The CyberPoetOriginally posted by md86Huh , I have good enough passing power from about 4-5 grand on up . I've passed MANY cars going 50-ish from 6th gear with no problem .
Cheers
=-= The CyberPoet
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Originally posted by wittymonkeyIt's just vibrating soooooooo much I hate doing more than 6k rpms.
6K is where the power STARTS on the 600, no wonder you couldn't pass.
If you haven't had the [initial] valve adjustment done, make sure to get that done, it makes a world of difference.Matt
If you think you don't need a helmet, you probably don't.
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My suggestion would be to start saving for a Kat 1100 or an FJ1100/1200 or something like that if you are going to do much 2-up touring type stuff. That'll be all the power you would need. With what you could sell the Kat for, it wouldn't be much extra money to procure one of those bikes.'97 YZF1000R, '98 & '02 Bandit 1200's, '72 XS-2, '97 CBR900RR Project, '85 700 Interceptor, '75 RD350
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Originally posted by wittymonkeyHmmmm, I will try this. I never spent enough time after 7500 rpms to check the vibrations. I just don't like not beeing nice with my engine... but I will try for this purpose.
Cheers
=-= The CyberPoet
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Originally posted by wittymonkeyHmmmm, I will try this. I never spent enough time after 7500 rpms to check the vibrations. I just don't like not beeing nice with my engine... but I will try for this purpose.
Thanks,
W.I don't have a short temper. I just have a quick reaction to bullshit.
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