[md86]

The cam chain is maintenance-free pretty much . Don't mess with it unless there's a problem with it . If it ain't broke don't BREAK it !

[The CyberPoet]

How do you maintain the cam chain? Just change the oil?

As MD86 noted, it's generally a maintenance free part. On-time oil changes with good oils, keeping your oil viable and up to minimum levels should satisfy what the cam chain needs to stay healthy. If it starts to act up, you may need to clean out the tensioner and or replace it, to keep the chain from getting enough slop to really stretch out beyond it's limits.

If you're familiar with cars, this might make more sense:
Most cars ship with timing belts. A few car manufacturers use timing chains (alpha romeo comes to mind) or timing gears instead. All of these systems do exactly the same thing on a car engine as a cam chain does on a motorcycle -- keep the valves opening and closing at the right time compared to the piston's up-down movement by syncing the cams (which control the valves) to the crank (which moves with the pistons). Unlike a timing belt, a timing chain is far less likely to stretch, snap, fray or otherwise need replacement (because steel chains are far hardier than reinforced belts), and since the Kat's cam chain sits in the center of the engine (as do most transversely-mounted 4-cylinder motorcycle engines), it make sense to use the stronger solution for longer life & reliability. Additionally, chains have an advantage in very-high RPM situations.
The issue with chain slack (unlike belt issues) isn't one of jumping a tooth (common problem with stretched belts), but instead of changing the timing or placing lateral loads on the cams' length (and subsequently cam bearings). There is a tensioner assembly designed to take up excess slack, but this assembly has been known to not be up to snuff -- the spring gets weak or clogged with oil-gunk from cheap oils -- and thus doesn't do it's job.

Cheers
=-= The CyberPoet

[WildKat]

I always drop a gear or 2 when Im passing someone, that extra power is pretty handy to get you past the other motorist and safely back in the lane in front of them. If you're gonna pass em, pass em quickly and safely

[md86]

Huh , I have good enough passing power from about 4-5 grand on up . I've passed MANY cars going 50-ish from 6th gear with no problem .

[The CyberPoet]

Huh , I have good enough passing power from about 4-5 grand on up . I've passed MANY cars going 50-ish from 6th gear with no problem .

290+ lbs on a '89 600 with an uphill road-grade is way different than you on a '93 771 (with it's 13:1 compression ratios) carrying just you...

Cheers
=-= The CyberPoet

[Anonymous]

Irregardless, you have to go above 6K on a Katana...I mean, that just where the fun begins

[md86]

Huh , I have good enough passing power from about 4-5 grand on up . I've passed MANY cars going 50-ish from 6th gear with no problem .

290+ lbs on a '89 600 with an uphill road-grade is way different than you on a '93 771 (with it's 13:1 compression ratios) carrying just you...

Cheers
=-= The CyberPoet

Well , I was thinking under "normal" circumstances , you know ? Just rider , no hill . But yeah , I forget how little power the stock 600 feels compared to mine . Never rode one all that much , but I did notice right away that I could NAIL the throttle coming out of a corner and not worry one BIT about anything bad happening , it seemed .

[Matt]

It's just vibrating soooooooo much I hate doing more than 6k rpms.

6K is where the power STARTS on the 600, no wonder you couldn't pass.

If you haven't had the [initial] valve adjustment done, make sure to get that done, it makes a world of difference.

[SlipKid]

My suggestion would be to start saving for a Kat 1100 or an FJ1100/1200 or something like that if you are going to do much 2-up touring type stuff. That'll be all the power you would need. With what you could sell the Kat for, it wouldn't be much extra money to procure one of those bikes.

[The CyberPoet]

It's just vibrating soooooooo much I hate doing more than 6k rpms.

Oh, one other thought: the vibrations that start at 6k may go away for you by the time you get to 7500 RPM and remain gone the rest of the RPM range... try it and see

Cheers
=-= The CyberPoet

[wittymonkey]

Hmmmm, I will try this. I never spent enough time after 7500 rpms to check the vibrations. I just don't like not beeing nice with my engine... but I will try for this purpose.

Thanks,

W.

[The CyberPoet]

Hmmmm, I will try this. I never spent enough time after 7500 rpms to check the vibrations. I just don't like not beeing nice with my engine... but I will try for this purpose.

Your engine is designed to run up to 10.5K RPM or 11K RPM or some such (it's marked on the tach as the redline), and anything about 1000 RPM below that and down even for long periods of time isn't "abusing" your engine as long you are using good motor oils and giving it the maintenance it needs on schedule.

Cheers
=-= The CyberPoet

[wittymonkey]

Sounds like a lot of fun, 2nd gear , 9000 RPMS ! I WILL try !

[wittymonkey]

Ok, tonight I road it and pushed it over 7k up to 10k and indeed the vibrations are less important.

What does this mean ?

[Mojoe]

Hmmmm, I will try this. I never spent enough time after 7500 rpms to check the vibrations. I just don't like not beeing nice with my engine... but I will try for this purpose.

Thanks,

W.

actually, by always keeping the low rpms like you are, you are NOT being nice to your engine. They vrave being opened up. It keeps them clean. 2 summers of driving like you do, and open up the engine....I am betting you will see a significant carbon build up on your pistons and valves.