Skidmarks!!!

[LaneWvr]

How easy does your back tire lock up? Mine does it everytime I have to stop quick, not sure if it's tires or brakes.

[roadrash]

I think you need to let up on the foot break a tad and use the front break a little more to stop more evenly

[Katana600Tao]

I agree with roadrash ... one thing I noticed about my Kat is that the back end seems lighter than my old Kawi ZX10. Just ease up on the back break and crank down on the front break. If you think in terms of physics, what happens when you break? All the weight moves forward, putting a greater percent on the front wheel (hence the reason you're suppose to use more front break than back).

[katrider]

...If you think in terms of physics, what happens when you break? All the weight moves forward, putting a greater percent on the front wheel (hence the reason you're suppose to use more front break than back).

This is also the reason that rear brake is locking up...there's reduced weight on the rear tire, and the harder you brake the lighter the rear becomes. Think "stoppies". In serious road racing, you can actually see the rear tires off the ground as the rider brakes hard into a corner (from a straight line!!!). Using the rear brake it that situation has no effect until touchdown

[Mojoe]

the rear brake should be adjustable, isn't it? maybe you have yours a bit too responsive.

[Black_peter]

My Kat locks up damn easy!!!
Lucky it doesn't "step out" too far..

[soccersteve]

my brakes are sweet. if i want to lock it up, i can, if not, then i can stop by just using my back if i wanted. it also may be rider technique. try down shifting and using the front brakes more.

[WildKat]

atleast your keeping in practice should you need to lock up the rear wheel in an emergency situation

Seriously though, how new are your brakes? Also do you ride in boots, if so, it takes awhile getting used to the responsiveness of your rear brake in boots, just ask Z !

[The CyberPoet]

How easy does your back tire lock up? Mine does it everytime I have to stop quick, not sure if it's tires or brakes.

With sufficient force, you should be able to lock up any brake build during the last 60 years. Experienced riders learn where that lock-up point is and how to avoid getting on the rear brake quite that hard (just shy of total lock-up, or releasing immediately when they hit it is a learned skill).

You may want to check the pads -- if the pads are excessively worn (and your pad backings are hitting the rotors), or if the pads are HH compound (may be difficult or impossible to tell without experience comparing pads), they could be literally biting too hard for your skill level. Switching to a less grabby pad in the rear (such as the OEM GG compound), installing good-condition pads if the pads are excessively worn, and/or learning a bit more finess may resolve this for you.

the rear brake should be adjustable, isn't it? maybe you have yours a bit too responsive.

They are adjustable by adjusting the linkage at the master cylinder (to control the engagement range) -- which (at least on the 98+) is a PIA to do because of where the master cylinder is mounted. But this doesn't change the actual length of the engagement zone -- just where the zone falls compared to where your foot rests.

I suspect it's actually the nut that ties the steering stem bearings to the rear foot brake lever that's the issue :P

...If you think in terms of physics, what happens when you break? All the weight moves forward, putting a greater percent on the front wheel (hence the reason you're suppose to use more front break than back).

+1

On a Kat 600 (88 - 05), your front brakes should be producing 75 - 80% of the total stopping force of the brake system. During a stop, the fronts are loaded up with weight from the weight-shift (making them less likely to lock-up), and they have between them almost six times the rotor/pad contact area of the rear brake.

Cheers
=-= The CyberPoet

[trinc]

you can also just rotate the brake arm on the spindle to give your foot less leverage. what you really need to do is to focus on the feedback the tire is giving you - they tend to howl a little bit just before lockup. in a panic situation is difficult, thats why you practice. of course cheap, hard compound tires don't give much feedback so a quality tire is important.

another possibility is the front fork springs & oil - if the front end dives down too far it allows more weight to transfer forward - making the rearend light ( locking the rear tire )

tim

[SweetLou]

We have a rear brake? I removed mine to shave some weight off

I'M KIDDING!!!!!

[md86]

My back brake takes some effort to lock up , actually . But that MAY have something to do with the previous owner never replacing the pads when they need it and grooving the rotor quite a bit .... I LIKE the fact that it take a bit of effort to actually lock it , though !

[Katana600Tao]

Re: Skidmarks!!!

How easy does your back tire lock up? Mine does it everytime I have to stop quick, not sure if it's tires or brakes.

Also ... I forgot to mention this just in case you haven't taken the MSF course. If you manage to lock up that rear break at higher speeds (specially during an emergency stop) leave it locked up until you at least slow down to a reasonable speed (they recommend keeping it locked until you stop). If you let go of the break and that back wheel has managed to slide one way or another, the bike will snap back and could pitch you off balance (or off the bike) if you're not careful.

[TemtnF8]

you can also just rotate the brake arm on the spindle to give your foot less leverage.
tim

I tried this with mine but the spindle is ridged and the lever can only be mounted when the grooves are lined up. When I rotated my lever down just 1 tooth on the spindle it put the lever at about a 30 degree downward angle, making it impossible to use.

[The CyberPoet]

you can also just rotate the brake arm on the spindle to give your foot less leverage.
tim

I tried this with mine but the spindle is ridged and the lever can only be mounted when the grooves are lined up. When I rotated my lever down just 1 tooth on the spindle it put the lever at about a 30 degree downward angle, making it impossible to use.

For smaller adjustments, there is a nut and bolt arrangement at the rear side of the master cylinder than can be adjusted -- as I mentioned above, it's a PIA to get at, but once you get at it, you can adjust the lever to any position you want.