Engine Break-In... Which is Correct????

[SweetLou]

Ok, In the manual, it say keep it under this amount of RPM for a certain milage.... then a little bit more RPM for a certain milage....

Now, there seems to be so much contreversy between how to break it in. Should I follow those guidlines????

Should I break it in how I plan to ride it????

What is everyone's opinion here?

[Macka]

hoo boy, widely debated topic...i just passed 600 miles on my '05 750, stuck to the manual basically.

the way i see it, all bikes gotta break in sometime

this thread will have >20 replies guaranteed!!

[zleviticus]

I broke mine in the way the manual suggested. You using a used engine correct? unless it was rebuilt it should already be broken in.

[Range]

I am currently running the snot out of mine...THATS how you break it in...baby it, it will not be as durable.

Here is a thought...I NEVER plug my vehicle in the winter...people who do, must then ALWAYS plug it in. food for thought

[Junior]

I waited 2 hours after picking her up from the dealers before hitting the rev limiter.

Then I waited another hour before hitting 130mph.

Then I waited until the next day to pull wheelies.

Now she gets pissed off if I'm not running the snot outta her.

Gotta love British women. They like it rough.

[escahoe]

I stuck with the manual . at least then if something breaks during warenty they can't say that you didn't follow their steps for break in.

[SweetLou]

Mine is rebuilt. Therefore I gota do the ol'break-in crap.

[WildKat]

I dont buy brand new bikes usually, so I dont have this problem.. but man we've talked about this alot, and its so divided its crazy ... you cant go wrong following the manufacturers guidelines though.

[Mojoe]

I agree with range and junior, but have to go with n4s. your engine is rebuilt, lou. I am not 100% certain, but I think even brand new bikes are run (just the engine...no miles) somewhat before being shipped to the dealer....allowing time for rings to seat and such. so just don't start your bike up and rev the piss out of it. the manual is sort of a guideline. you can go past it a bit. people are strange. paint a yellow line on the floor and tell people not to pass it cuz a piano will fall on them, someone is going to temp it by walking to the edge of the line. same with the specs. you can go past them a bit. if it says 5k rpm, don't sweat at 6...7 even. And if it says 200 miles, go 150.
If I had a new bike, I would be getting tickets with jr and range.....but on an older engine like you have, don't over do it. You can't hear a crank bearing spin itself when you are redlining.

[WildKat]

Gimme some of those tickets too please... since my beast is nice and broken in long since, It's nice not having to worry about it anymore when you wanna red line it !

[The CyberPoet]

Mine is rebuilt. Therefore I gota do the ol'break-in crap.

Did you use the WiseCo kit? If so, call them and get their instructions; follow them.

IMHO: Beating it will get you more power early. And less power later. And far less lifespan (in miles).
Breaking it in right will maximize the lifespan, and it may take a few extra thousand miles to really "open up" to it's potential, but you won't end up with a 3 year old bike that feels winded compared to others in the same class (see this month's TWO for an example -- the 3 year-old GSXR750 they tested against three other used bikes).

Cheers
=-= The CyberPoet

[duff daddy]

ok im sorry but im being serious you people who beat the snot out of your bike with a bran new motor are STUPID thats as dumb as riding with no gear, and i will debate this till i either die or win so take your pick, the reason why you have to break in a motor is to get a wear patern on the cylnder walls, if you dont do so, you can burn rings, scorch pistons, and or burn valves up, now if you do break it in you will give a nice smooth groves in the cylinder walls and allow the rings to expand and set as necessary. also if you ever take apart a motor, you will notice the cylnders are NOT circles, but wrather ovals, this is because of the wear pattern, and when you go to bore out an old motor, that i why you sometimes can go to the right amount you want because either the piston wont fit in right or its too big. so when you beat the snot out of a new motor your killing the long gevity (lots of miss spelled words here sorry bout that) of that motor as well as ending up to spend more money in the long run....so post what you want but im sticking here

[UFO8MyCow]

ok im sorry but im being serious you people who beat the snot out of your bike with a bran new motor are STUPID thats as dumb as riding with no gear, and i will debate this till i either die or win so take your pick, the reason why you have to break in a motor is to get a wear patern on the cylnder walls, if you dont do so, you can burn rings, scorch pistons, and or burn valves up, now if you do break it in you will give a nice smooth groves in the cylinder walls and allow the rings to expand and set as necessary. also if you ever take apart a motor, you will notice the cylnders are NOT circles, but wrather ovals, this is because of the wear pattern, and when you go to bore out an old motor, that i why you sometimes can go to the right amount you want because either the piston wont fit in right or its too big. so when you beat the snot out of a new motor your killing the long gevity (lots of miss spelled words here sorry bout that) of that motor as well as ending up to spend more money in the long run....so post what you want but im sticking here

Wow Duff you actualy sounded intelegent there for a minuet.

[Anonymous]

ok im sorry but im being serious you people who beat the snot out of your bike with a bran new motor are STUPID thats as dumb as riding with no gear, and i will debate this till i either die or win so take your pick, the reason why you have to break in a motor is to get a wear patern on the cylnder walls, if you dont do so, you can burn rings, scorch pistons, and or burn valves up, now if you do break it in you will give a nice smooth groves in the cylinder walls and allow the rings to expand and set as necessary. also if you ever take apart a motor, you will notice the cylnders are NOT circles, but wrather ovals, this is because of the wear pattern, and when you go to bore out an old motor, that i why you sometimes can go to the right amount you want because either the piston wont fit in right or its too big. so when you beat the snot out of a new motor your killing the long gevity (lots of miss spelled words here sorry bout that) of that motor as well as ending up to spend more money in the long run....so post what you want but im sticking here

+1

Remind me never to buy a British bike ridden by a Canadian... jokin boys

[zleviticus]

ok im sorry but im being serious you people who beat the snot out of your bike with a bran new motor are STUPID thats as dumb as riding with no gear, and i will debate this till i either die or win so take your pick, the reason why you have to break in a motor is to get a wear patern on the cylnder walls, if you dont do so, you can burn rings, scorch pistons, and or burn valves up, now if you do break it in you will give a nice smooth groves in the cylinder walls and allow the rings to expand and set as necessary. also if you ever take apart a motor, you will notice the cylnders are NOT circles, but wrather ovals, this is because of the wear pattern, and when you go to bore out an old motor, that i why you sometimes can go to the right amount you want because either the piston wont fit in right or its too big. so when you beat the snot out of a new motor your killing the long gevity (lots of miss spelled words here sorry bout that) of that motor as well as ending up to spend more money in the long run....so post what you want but im sticking here

I agree with duff on this one. Of course it depends on how long you intend to keep the bike. I know when I rebuilt the engine in the camaro I had to baby it and actually run it at a certiain RPM for a period of time to allow for what duff says. If i did not I would have taken the chance of blowing the engine at a later date when i ran it hard. I think with the newer engines break in periods are even more critical because of the tight tolerances in the engines.