So, I thought I was doing good by purchasing all the parts I needed for a Tune-up. I figured, "I've done it in a car, how hard can it be?" I also had my best friend helping, who's relatively experienced compared to me when it comes to do-it-yourself repairs. Initially, the only downside was that, living here in the UK, parts cost so much (in excess of $200 for a new airfilter, 4 spark plugs, a new oil filter and a 4 quart jug of oil). Anyway, my friend brought a t-handled, jointed socket wrench that made replacing the plugs a cinch. The air filter exchange went just as easy. Moving on to the oil change, I was in a good mood since everything had been so easy to this point. I had been using my relatively small ratchet set with a 7 or 8" long ratchet handle to remove other bits and pieces up to this point. When it came time to remove the plug off the bottom of the oil pan, I noticed that the plug appeared to have not been touched in some time, as it was really stuck. My friend said he had a much larger ratchet in his trunk that would give me alot more torque, which should make it easier to free it up. I thought that was a great idea. I got the ratchet with the appropriate socket and sat down on the LEFT side of the bike. I fitted the ratchet to the plug and pulled. At first, it didn't really move very much, but after a second and a bit more effort, I managed to get it moving. It didn't really move that freely, so I continued turning it. After a few seconds and no progress, I stopped, trying to figure out what was wrong. With a sense of dread, I took the ratchet off and turned the socket a few turns by hand. Oh my freaking gourd! The ratchet was set to tighten the bolt and not loosen it. It hadn't registered at first since the ratchet was upside down and seemed to be turning in the right direction. If I'd only sat down on the right side of the bike (or continued using my smaller ratchet, which was already set to loosen), I wouldn't be banging myself of the head with a 5 lb ratchet! I belatedly turned the ratchet to loosen and successfully removed the plug from the oilpan, noting with disgust the metal shavings that were all over the plug and my fingers. I cannot believe how stupid I was. Now I'm faced with purchasing a new oil pan (my wife will be very happy about that) and an unexpected early end to my riding season. On that note, does anybody have a replacement oil pan I can use? I promise not to strip the threads on this one, honest! (sigh).
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If (when) you decide to remove the pan, I'd suggest ordering all new oil pan bolts. I had taken my pan off to install a shift kit, but ended up snapping off a bolt (so that half was stuck in the engine case) and I had to take it to a dealer to fix. It turned out that 3-4 bolts out of the 14 showed signs of stress and were on the verge of snapping too. The other 10 bolts torque'd up just fine, so maybe the vibration and constant heating/cooling of the bolts puts them under stress...
Anyway, not sure what year/model your Kat is (you can fill out your Garage info), but on my 2000 Kat 750, there were 13 bolts around the perimeter and 1 in the middle. They're about $1 a piece (at least here in the US), so for $12 you can get peace of mind.
Of course, this is only if you take off the pan (versus tapping)."Pleasant experiences make life enjoyable, painful experiences lead to growth" - cheap Chinese fortune cookie
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stripped threads
You can go to the auto part sore and buy a over sized drain plug that ill self tap it self in to your pan. take you old plug with you and try to match it close. you may have to buy two or three but take the ons you dont use back. good luck----- righty tighty lefty loosy
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Get with Cyber Poet, he knows of the right oversize plug you need. Saves you alot of money and time. Just remember Lefty loosy, righty tighty, no matter what side of the bike you are sitting on
if you would have stopped at the first movement you would have been good. That first little movement broke it loose and then switch to loosen and then good to go but it is a bit to late for thatTDA Racing/Motorsports
1982 Honda CB750 Nighthawk, 1978 Suzuki GS750 1986 Honda CBR600 Hurricane; 1978 Suzuki GS1100E; 1982 Honda CB750F supersport, 1993 Suzuki Katana GSX750FP. 1981 Suzuki GS1100E (heavily Modified) http://katriders.com/vb/showthread.php?t=94258
Who knows what is next?
Builder of the KOTM Mreedohio september winning chrome project. I consider this one to be one of my bikes also!
Please look at this build! http://katriders.com/vb/showthread.php?t=91192
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Yeah, I'm usually the first one to remind folks of the left loosy, righty tighty rule. I just was thrown off switching between the two ratchets and the fact I was not thinking about the screw from the perspective of it being upside down. So, it seems like it would be cheaper to buy some new, oversize drain plugs, but it would be safer to replace the entire thing (and the oil pan bolts)? Does anyone have a oil pan I can buy?
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Get the hole tapped and get the Fumoto valve.
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This is why ANY time I grab a socket , I'll hold onto it and turn the wrench to confirm whether or not it's set to tighten or loosen . Lesson learned the hard way .
They make sparkplug thread repair kits and such . You should be able to get one of those cheaper than a new pan . Probably close to the same size . Take the drain plug in with you .
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There's been a few pans on fleabay lately going relatively inexpensive."When people look like ants, pull. When ants looks like people, pray!"
Suzuki Katana Templates, Manuals, Tutorials| Read This Before Buying or Trading| My Parts Wanted Thread for my '01 Katana 600
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Since you didn't post what year/make your bike is, it'd doubtful that anyone is going to step and tell you "hey, I've got your pan right here!". eBay is generally where I score replacements for such situations. If you have any friends who tig-weld, it's not too hard to reweld the opening tighter and then retap it to the appropriate M14x1.25.
There are three general pans in use -- the pre-98 600, the pre-99 750 and the late-model pan.
As you might have noticed, the phrase Fumoto has shown up in this thread -- the fumoto valve is a petcock valve that replaces the drain bolt so you'll never have this issue again (Ever). It's about $27 last time I checked -- www.fumotovalve.com
Unfortunately, it won't fix the stripped pan you do have, although Fumoto does sell a 16mm version that you might be able to tap your pan out to (not what I'd suggest though).
Here's an example from my 98+ with the fumoto installed:
On a side note, I ship GSXF maintenance supplies globally, so in the future when you don't want to feed your dealer's kids, feel free to check my maintenance & upgrade offers for stuff like filters & plugs (details here: http://katriders.com/vb/showthread.php?t=58596 ).
Cheers
=-= The CyberPoet
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I have a 98 GSXF. Cyber, if you don't suggest tapping my pan out, how would I fit the fumoto valve onto it? I did a short, initial search on Ebay for replacement pans and I didn't see any for a 98+. I might not have searched properly. Anyway, thanks for everyone's help. I will investigate the fumoto valve if you think I can put one in.Last edited by Moonrs; 10-22-2007, 11:22 AM.
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