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  • Whoa.

    Before I got the Kat, I rode a 1996 Kawasaki Vulcan 500 with a parallel twin engine that went putt-putt-putt and had no top end. But it was a great starter bike and in that capacity it served me well.

    Anyhoo---I have always wanted a fully faired I-4 sportbike, and ended up with the new Kat. So yesterday I took her out for a spin, gotta rack up those break-in miles quick, right?

    Starting off from a red light, I was at around 25mph in the left lane (4-lane road) when I see in my right mirror a flatbed tow truck coming up the right lane FAST. Not wanting a big flatbed alongside, I cracked the throttle open about halfway, and WHOOSH! That truck got pretty small in my mirror pretty dang quick. Up until that point I hadn't opened her up as much, and I gotta say it was one heck of a rush. Bone stock this bike is faster than any car I have ever ridden in or driven, and it's not even supposed to be a "fast" bike.

    Old hat for most of you, I know, but I just felt like sharing
    "The problem with most motorcycles is the nut that connects the seat to the handlebars."

  • #2
    Yeah it is quite a rush I will agree. Just wait till you take it that fast thru a whinding road. thats fun!!!

    Check out www.Atozhometheater.com

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    • #3
      Just wait until you get to open her up with that other half of the throttle and hit the "real" power of the higher rpm's of the powerband. It can definately be a quick bike when you ask it to.

      Comment


      • #4
        Re: Whoa.

        Originally posted by Macka
        So yesterday I took her out for a spin, gotta rack up those break-in miles quick, right?
        Try to remember that the best thing for the break-in is long steady cruising, like getting up on the highway at the RPM limit for your current mileage and just tooling along for a couple hours at a pop. The real thing the engine wants is to come all the way up to operating temp and stay there during the break-in; lots of shorter trips aren't nearly as healthy for seating the various components. Also remember to let her run up for literally two to five minutes during the break-in process before you roll away (i.e. before you put any load on the engine), so oil starts moving around everywhere before it takes any load.

        PS - welcome to the club

        Cheers
        =-= The CyberPoet
        Remember The CyberPoet

        Comment


        • #5
          Re: Whoa.

          Originally posted by The CyberPoet

          Try to remember that the best thing for the break-in is long steady cruising, like getting up on the highway at the RPM limit for your current mileage and just tooling along for a couple hours at a pop.


          Not to bust your chops, but that goes against everything I've ever heard/read about engine break-in.

          I thought you were supposed to vary engine speed?


          Am I misinformed?
          Matt

          If you think you don't need a helmet, you probably don't.

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          • #6
            Good info Cyber, the best is a 500+ cruise from one place to another for breakin. plan a weekend to take a 1000+ mile ride that should take care of the breakin
            TDA Racing/Motorsports
            1982 Honda CB750 Nighthawk, 1978 Suzuki GS750 1986 Honda CBR600 Hurricane; 1978 Suzuki GS1100E; 1982 Honda CB750F supersport, 1993 Suzuki Katana GSX750FP. 1981 Suzuki GS1100E (heavily Modified) http://katriders.com/vb/showthread.php?t=94258
            Who knows what is next?
            Builder of the KOTM Mreedohio september winning chrome project. I consider this one to be one of my bikes also!
            Please look at this build! http://katriders.com/vb/showthread.php?t=91192

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            • #7
              Re: Whoa.

              Originally posted by Matt
              Originally posted by The CyberPoet

              Try to remember that the best thing for the break-in is long steady cruising, like getting up on the highway at the RPM limit for your current mileage and just tooling along for a couple hours at a pop.


              Not to bust your chops, but that goes against everything I've ever heard/read about engine break-in.

              I thought you were supposed to vary engine speed?


              Am I misinformed?
              Umm, yeah I have heard the same thing Matt, and actually it is what the manual says too. Vary the RPM and don't stay at one engine speed too long. I'm curious about this because I only have 130 miles on the Kat :P

              CP?
              "The problem with most motorcycles is the nut that connects the seat to the handlebars."

              Comment


              • #8
                You guys are right to bust my chops in a sense... But even on the highway, unless you are using a throttle lock, you're not going to stay at that perfect RPM constantly, but slow down and speed up with traffic, plus for most of us it takes several miles to get out of town (maybe I should be saying state road instead of highway -- don't think interstate as much as meandering state roads). The point I was trying to make wasn't so much about the RPM locked in at some level as the concept of keeping the engine running consistently, getting up to full operating temp and staying there while running under consistent cruising load to wear in the rings/cylinder walls. This will minimize both wear during break-in (thus oil consumption later, as well as keeping compression pressures as high as possible by keeping the ring wear down), and let the engine seat properly. I see far too many guys who buy their new bike, rev the hell out of it, run over to blockbuster, then to the grocery store, etc., each time only running the engine a few minutes at a pop -- not bring it all the way up to temp and simulatenously loading it up with lots of stress right from the get-go.

                And for whoever is going to post that stupid arse webpage about breaking in an engine by ragging the hell out of it immediately: #*$%! While it make sense for engine builders who build one-offs and need to make sure the engine will never seize, it doesn't give you the best results in the long run, especially from mass-produced assembly-line motorcycle engines in terms of seating and retained compression. He's the type of guy who never sees 35k on his engines, much less 100k...

                Cheers
                =-= The CyberPoet
                Remember The CyberPoet

                Comment


                • #9
                  Dude, I am busting a gut and now to the thread. Where is the book Cyber, I want thee book?
                  TDA Racing/Motorsports
                  1982 Honda CB750 Nighthawk, 1978 Suzuki GS750 1986 Honda CBR600 Hurricane; 1978 Suzuki GS1100E; 1982 Honda CB750F supersport, 1993 Suzuki Katana GSX750FP. 1981 Suzuki GS1100E (heavily Modified) http://katriders.com/vb/showthread.php?t=94258
                  Who knows what is next?
                  Builder of the KOTM Mreedohio september winning chrome project. I consider this one to be one of my bikes also!
                  Please look at this build! http://katriders.com/vb/showthread.php?t=91192

                  Comment


                  • #10
                    Ah, I see what you are saying now. I would say I am keeping it at operating temp, as I my rides are usually 2 hours long. And, when riding I am trying to load the engine, albeit conservatively, by bringing it up to 4-5K gradually and then closing the throttle and letting the bike engine brake.

                    There are short periods where I am cruising at 3500 RPM but I try and keep it varied, and load the engine without ragging the heck out of it. Also I am keeping it below 6K per the manual.
                    "The problem with most motorcycles is the nut that connects the seat to the handlebars."

                    Comment


                    • #11
                      The more you take care of your bike during the break in period...the happier u'll be for a long time!

                      Comment


                      • #12
                        Originally posted by Need4Speed750
                        The more you take care of your bike during the break in period...the happier u'll be for a long time!
                        Absolutely, these are very fine bikes, take care of it and it will take care of you. Welcome to board, glad to have ya!!!!
                        2000 Kat 600
                        "Fast Blue"
                        Pic in Profile

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                        • #13
                          See with this New 250 of Teresa's the book says not to goover 4000 rpm in the first 500 miles not to go over 6000 rpms for the next 500 miles. The book says basically what cyber said. The first day when I left the shop I hit 7000 with it and didn't know until I looked down. I am use to my bike i guess. After that I cruised along at 40mph which is right a the 4000rpm mark on this 250. It is going to be a long break in period for this bike.
                          www.mopowersports.com

                          Comment


                          • #14
                            [quote="JesterGfx"]Just wait until you get to open her up with that other half of the throttle and hit the "real" power of the higher rpm's of the powerband. It can definately be a quick bike when you ask it to.[/quot


                            Thats when I had gotten a big suprise after my break in .. Above 6KRPM
                            Beauty is in the eye of the beer-holder.

                            Comment


                            • #15
                              Not to bust your chops, but that goes against everything I've ever heard/read about engine break-in.

                              I thought you were supposed to vary engine speed?
                              I think some of it really depends on what ring material you have, what your engine clearances are, etc. From waht I understand, the varying of engine speed is supposed to help the rings seat without glazing the cylinder and thus, granting bad compression. This may or may not be the case with the Kat, but if in question, looking at the manual should answer any question about the proper method.
                              '97 YZF1000R, '98 & '02 Bandit 1200's, '72 XS-2, '97 CBR900RR Project, '85 700 Interceptor, '75 RD350

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