88 GSX1100F clutch problem

[ddenzinger]

Hi,

This is my first post on Katriders.
My 1100 drove fine last year, for a few miles, until the battery went dead. I h replaced the alternator a couple weeks ago, which meant dropping the engine and removing the clutch release (slave) cylinder. The voltage is fine now, but the clutch will no longer release.
I drained the fluid, cleaned and inspected both master and slave cylinders, replaced the pushrod, bushing and dust sea lon the master, reused the piston on the slave, filled it with Valvoline synthetic DOT 3&4 brake fluid, bled the system, but I only get about 1mm of travel from the piston. I can't "pump it up". When it is mounted on the bike, there is no resistance to the lever being pulled.
I ask, what might be the problem?
Also, does anyone know the spec for the release spring tension? I can only find the spec for the length.

Thanks!

[katanarider]

Welcome to the forum !
The clutch slip issue is a common problem on these bikes.
My advice is to use a secondary brake bleed pump such as a Mityvac.

https://www.google.com/search?q=mityvac&num=50&safe=off&client=firefox-a&hs=O0T&rls=org.mozilla:en-US:unofficial&source=lnms&tbm=shop&sa=X&ei=MaZnVbyVM8HBtQX_o4DAAQ&ved=0CAcQ_AUoAQ&biw=1024&bih=573

This is what worked for me...while pumping the Mityvac also pump the clutch lever at the same time. This should pull enough fluid from the master cylinder to get it flowing which will in turn start to build pressure.
You can also try to bleed the hydraulic circuit by placing a syringe at the bleed valve to suck fluid back in the slave as you pump. I've not tried this yet, so if you do, be sure to tell us how it works.

http://www.dirt-bike-secrets.com/hydraulic-clutch.html

One member here said that air bubbles rise up the hose and settle in the banjo bolt joint which cause loss of suction in the circuit.

Keep us informed !

[ddenzinger]

Thanks for the advice! I did what you said, and power bled the clutch while pumping the lever, and the action feels normal now. However, when I have the bike up on the center stand and drop into gear while holding the clutch, the rear wheel still spins.
Do I really need to drop the engine? Again?

[katanarider]

I'm not sure about dropping the engine.
Have you tried to ride the bike ? Does it pull with your weight on the back tire ? I think a little bit of pull is kind of normal, that is with the wheel off the ground any way. I know my Kat600 is hard to push (walk) while in gear with the clutch sqeezed and its got a cable clutch.
Don't forget to bleed that banjo bolt on the master cylinder.

[shpielers]

What ^ said same for my 600.
Doubt dropping the engine would make a difference. As was previously stated, it's a common problem for this bike. I have a completely rebuilt system (MC, slave, new SS line, synthetic fluid, used a mityvac) and still have this issue. Honed the slave cylinder while I was in there too. I haven't put any miles on mine so I'm hoping it's just the friction plates in the clutch being a bit sticky, but I'm not holding my breath.

[subforry]

My rear wheel will spin under the same conditions. The spinning should be easy to stop if you put your boot against the tire. The nature of the clutch basket and oil is bound to make hydrostatic motion. If looks too scary to put you boot against the tire or does not want to stop when the boot is applied then maybe something else is wrong.

[Wild-Bill]

Definitely don't drop the engine. Crack the MC banjo bolt to bleed air out of there but with this being a wet clutch, the wheel will tend to spin some while on the center stand even if the clutch is perfectly disengaged. Viscosity, bound layers and all that physics stuff... If the bike doesn't want to walk away from you at stop lights then you're fine.

[loneraider]

My 1100 does the same thing with centre stand down.
if you can stop the tire with your foot that's about the best its going to get.

[retcol]

Common issue with these bikes, not really fixable in my opinion, just have to live with it.