[Locomotion]

Been busy over the weekend

Loom was dirty needed some repairs and re-wrapping









This is the main power supply connector that goes to the fuse box via a circuit breaker



From a dirty mess to a sticky one



Repairs carried out ready for taping up



Cloth tape much better than plastic







Trying to get it all tidy on the bike is a bit of a challenge





Front end is a afternoon on its own

[Tokalosh]

Looking good,………. I left your garage on Friday very jealous and rather depressed, you have some serious skills!!

[Locomotion]

Thanks Dario, did you manage to remove that rotor

[Tokalosh]

Thanks Dario, did you manage to remove that rotor

Still no joy, but I think I may have a solution.

I'm going to put a bar through the back wheel and swing arm which should stop it from rotating in order for me to loosen the nut.

I'll keep you posted.

Tok

[Locomotion]

I use that method to loosen/tighten front sprocket. Why dont you use the ignition rotor i leant you

[Locomotion]

Finishing off the wiring nice & tidy behind the headlight


This is a solid state gear change indicator, the gear change selector switch has been modified



and wired into clocks, looks like it was supposed to be there



correct position of coils



Hazard warning relay re-positioned to front of battery box



and switch



The powerscreen linkage run inside a crappy plastic tube which is shaped and in this case a bit brittle I thought I would repair this until I can get another better condition plate. As the motor reaches the end of its run this broken joint expands.



I drilled 3 holes being careful not to damage the motor relay which sits just the other side of this plate



Then using a piece of rubber hose and 2 cable ties job done

[Locomotion]

I need to wire in some blocking diodes for the hazard warning lights so whilst waiting for them to arrive I got on with inspecting cleaning and replacing the needle jet & o ring and pilot screw o rings. Its also worth noting that these carbs use different size main jets in carbs 1 & 4 112.5 whereas 2 & 3 use 110

Starting at the top removing the diaphragm cover



The whole assembly pulls straight out the plus side of CV carbs



The needle just sits in the diaphragm body only the spring holds it in place



Needle clip in 3rd groove as stock setting



Checking diaphragm for splits or damage lucky mine are sound these are expensive



Air jet will be removed ready for cleaning



On to the bottom end, removed the idle adjustment as it gets in the way, once removed from the float chamber just unscrews.



In line fuel filters are not a bad thing but still crap in the bowl



The float assembly is held in place by this pin which is an interference fit, I had to use a automatic centre punch to remove the pin.



then a impact driver to remove the needle valve retaining screw!



Here is the old needle jet which wasn't that badly worn but I was changing it anyway along with the O ring which comes ready assembled on the new one. note the fine filter which must be transferred to the new needle jet assembly





Main jet, pilot jet & pilot screw ready for cleaning which is just a squirt of carb cleaner and compressed air.



Pilot screw assembly, that tiny rubber seal comes in the carb kit



Before pushing the float retaining pin fully home the float height gets measured.



Which was out of the range of 14.6mm + or - 1.0mm



Adjustment made by bending small metal tab which rests on needle valve then push pin fully home



All 4 carbs were given the same treatment, a good spray of carb cleaner into every orifice then followed through with compressed air. I found only 1 float height out 2 pilot screws were 3 & 1/2 turns out and 2 were 2 & 1/2 all else was ok the bike ticked over nice before and run up ok so didn't really expect any issues.

All back together with Lectron fuel hose, this stuff is good, lasts for years and doesn't need clips

[Engelskmannen]

Looking good but... the self tapping screws that are holding together the clamping plates that retain the diaphragm are a bodge, the plates get loose and cause the piston not to lift properly or at all. I don't know if the weight of these screws will upset anything or not

Colin.

[Locomotion]

Plenty of bodges on this bike Colin, you mean the set screws that retain the diaphragm to the slide body? there were no running issues regarding the carbs prior to me cleaning them

[Engelskmannen]

Bodges... tell me about it

The screws I meant are shown in this photo:





If they don't give any problems then no worries

Colin.

[Locomotion]

Yes they are actually set screws not self taps

[Engelskmannen]

My mistake, they look like the heads of self tapping wood screws

Colin.

[Locomotion]

Ha, I wouldn't have left them like that if they were Colin, I got standards you know

The carbs back on, anyone wanting to remove/install their carbs would be well advised to deal with the throttle cable before fitting or after removing from the intakes as its a right barsteward getting the cable in/out of the linkage.

Back in at last



nearly there



Back to those diodes, these little buddies are an electrical one way valve rated at 5 amps and 50v reverse current limit, I had to fit them when wiring up the hazard warning lights to stop the common joint of the indicators sending power to each other, basically the hazards work fine but when switch on the indicators they all flashed regardless of switching left or right hence the diodes which have sorted my little problem.

I could fit bullet connectors either end which saves my poor soldering skills



Heat shrink wrap is great stuff





Excuse the poor picture, the whole lot was then wrapped in cloth loom tape and tucked away tidy.





so I now dug out my dusty body panels, 2 of which are damaged where the engine fell on them (don`t ask) and polished them up a bit then fitted them, got some shelf space now.







That just leaves me to sort the clutch.

[Tokalosh]

Looking good Andy, cant wait to see it later today.

Tok

[Slammer46]

Hi, just a slightly off topic question. I just reinstalled my stock carbs and airbox. In the picture of your airbox it looks like you have a rubber tie down on it. 1 am I wrong 2. Is it stock and do I gotta get one.

Thanks