Ad Widget

Collapse

Announcement

Collapse
No announcement yet.
X

Wahooooo!

Collapse
  • Filter
  • Time
  • Show
Clear All
new posts

  • #16
    Originally posted by shpielers View Post
    I was reading through the manual last night and now have a question. The chain is super tight, and the manual was stating to place the bike on its side stand then adjust for .8-1.0". Is measuring it on the sidestand really correct? Ive always done my 600 on the center stand. Seems like adjusting in the sidestand would be more difficult. Or do you have to measure on the sidestand, pop it up to the center, adjust, then put back on the sidestand?
    the idea is that you want the bike's weight on the rear wheel when you make the adjustment. on the center stand the rear wheel will be off the ground, so the suspension maxxed out on the drop. if you make adjustments like that, the chain will be too tight once you raise the center stand and the rear wheel is bearing weight.

    so, side stand, standing up straight as a buddy holds it, or standing up with the use of a wheel chock are all good. center stand with wheel off the ground is no good. well, it is good, but you have to allow for a wee bit more play in the chain. if you are aiming for 1in play, then go at least 1.25 to 1.3 if you are doing it with the rear wheel off the ground.
    Last edited by Mojoe; 02-07-2014, 09:02 PM.
    I don't have a short temper. I just have a quick reaction to bullshit.




    Comment


    • #17
      Originally posted by Mojoe View Post
      the idea is that you want the bike's weight on the rear wheel when you make the adjustment. on the center stand the rear wheel will be off the ground, so the suspension maxxed out on the drop. if you make adjustments like that, the chain will be too tight once you raise the center stand and the rear wheel is bearing weight.

      so, side stand, standing up straight as a buddy holds it, or standing up with the use of a wheel chock are all good. center stand with wheel off the ground is no good. well, it is good, but you have to allow for a wee bit more play in the chain. if you are aiming for 1in play, then go at least 1.25 to 1.3 if you are doing it with the rear wheel off the ground.
      Thank you Mojoe, understood.
      I've probably gotten away with doing it on the centerstand on my 600 because I go towards the loose end. I'll get someone to hold her steady whilst I do it on this bike. She's a fair bit heavier so I'd rather do it the right way than get by half assing it like I have been on the other bike.
      1998 Katana 750
      1992 Katana 1100
      2006 Ninja 250

      2006 Katana 600 RIP - 130k miles

      Comment


      • #18
        Would have been nice if Suzuki had given the slack measurement with the wheel off the ground...

        I suppose the thing to do would be to adjust my chain to the loose end of the specs, put it on the centerstand and measure slack and then repeat for the tight end of the specs. Then I'd have the specs for adjusting with the wheel off the ground. I'd just have to remember to do this next time I adjust my chain.
        Wherever you go... There you are!

        17 Inch Wheel Conversion
        HID Projector Retrofit

        Comment


        • #19
          Originally posted by Wild-Bill View Post
          Would have been nice if Suzuki had given the slack measurement with the wheel off the ground...

          I suppose the thing to do would be to adjust my chain to the loose end of the specs, put it on the centerstand and measure slack and then repeat for the tight end of the specs. Then I'd have the specs for adjusting with the wheel off the ground. I'd just have to remember to do this next time I adjust my chain.
          for the record, I always did mine while it was on the center stand. but then again, I don't get all "technical" about it. I just draw it up so I have a good solid inch or so of slack, maybe a wee bit more, then leave it at that. then once i drop the center stand I end up with at least 3/4 in of slack. honestly, I don't have a clue what the specs actually are. I just eye-ball it. it has always worked for me.
          I don't have a short temper. I just have a quick reaction to bullshit.




          Comment


          • #20
            Originally posted by Wild-Bill View Post
            Would have been nice if Suzuki had given the slack measurement with the wheel off the ground...

            I suppose the thing to do would be to adjust my chain to the loose end of the specs, put it on the centerstand and measure slack and then repeat for the tight end of the specs. Then I'd have the specs for adjusting with the wheel off the ground. I'd just have to remember to do this next time I adjust my chain.
            Well that's a good idea. Since I have to adjust the chain anyways, I can do that and put the numbers up. Probably wont happen till Monday.

            Mojoe - on my 600 I'm basically the same, but with basically double the torque from the 1100, and on a bike of somewhat questionable maintenance history, I figured I'd try to be as nice as possible to the chain/sprockets until I replace them.
            1998 Katana 750
            1992 Katana 1100
            2006 Ninja 250

            2006 Katana 600 RIP - 130k miles

            Comment


            • #21
              Originally posted by shpielers View Post
              Mojoe - on my 600 I'm basically the same, but with basically double the torque from the 1100, and on a bike of somewhat questionable maintenance history, I figured I'd try to be as nice as possible to the chain/sprockets until I replace them.
              I hear ya.
              I don't have a short temper. I just have a quick reaction to bullshit.




              Comment


              • #22
                So I went about adjusting the chain today. Got it adjusted to the tight end if spec on the sidestand.
                .8" on the sidestand = 1 1/4" on the centerstand. Wasn't expecting that big of a difference.
                It was at this point I actually started looking at the chain. Showed a fair amount of rust. At this point i was thinking it might possibly be the original chain (only 25k on it, so it's possible) so I measured the stretch - 21 pin distance right at the wear limit 12.6" exactly. Looked at the chain closer. There were orings falling off it. PO wtf were you doing??? Glad the guy sold it before he ended up wrecking it due to chain failure.
                Also discovered the rear sprocket is a 52t. I'm pretty sure stock is 54 so if the PO put on a new sprocket, that was probably NOT the original chain. My last one lasted 27k. This guy went through 2 (at least) in 25...regular maintenance/TLC...it makes a difference.

                Long story long, I didnt adjust to the loose end. I'm not riding it until new chain and sprockets get put on it. I choose life. Once those get out on I'll measure that. Since I have a 600, might as well do it for that too and start a wiki article.
                1998 Katana 750
                1992 Katana 1100
                2006 Ninja 250

                2006 Katana 600 RIP - 130k miles

                Comment


                • #23
                  Originally posted by shpielers View Post
                  So I went about adjusting the chain today. Got it adjusted to the tight end if spec on the sidestand.
                  .8" on the sidestand = 1 1/4" on the centerstand. Wasn't expecting that big of a difference.
                  cool...so my guesstimate was pretty close at 1.25-1.3 on the center stand.

                  like i said...never measured it. always went with my instinct.
                  .
                  I don't have a short temper. I just have a quick reaction to bullshit.




                  Comment


                  • #24
                    Original sprocket was a 52T. I replaced mine with a 46T when I replaced the chain and sprockets. Made it much more relaxed on the highway.

                    Cheers!

                    Jollidude

                    Comment


                    • #25
                      Originally posted by jollidude View Post
                      Original sprocket was a 52T. I replaced mine with a 46T when I replaced the chain and sprockets. Made it much more relaxed on the highway.

                      Cheers!

                      Jollidude
                      I went with a 48T. Very nice for highway speeds, plus you can buy a shorter chain which usually cost less.
                      '81 GS850G, '90 GSX1100F, '96 BMW K1100RS

                      Comment


                      • #26
                        Originally posted by subforry View Post
                        I went with a 48T. Very nice for highway speeds, plus you can buy a shorter chain which usually cost less.


                        I've never seen a difference in price for chain length between 100-120 links... But I guess others mileage may vary.


                        Krey
                        93 750 Kat



                        Modified Swingarm, 5.5 GSXR Rear with 180/55 and 520 Chain, 750 to 600 Tail conversion, more to come. Long Term Project build thread http://katriders.com/vb/showthread.php?t=96736

                        "I've done this a thousand times before. What could possibly go wron.... Ooops!"

                        Comment


                        • #27
                          Originally posted by subforry View Post
                          I went with a 48T. Very nice for highway speeds, plus you can buy a shorter chain which usually cost less.
                          I was parting out a lot of bikes in the past, as a sideline hobby, so I was always running into into different size sprockets to try for free. it was a nice bonus because not only could I try it for free, I didn't have to buy a new chain or cut mine. I just used the chain that came off the parts bike.

                          anyway, tried pretty much every one out there for the 1100 kat, including a 58t that I ran across. actually, I still have it somewhere. talk about torque. if you want the 1100 kat to wheelie much easier, just slap on a 58t rear sprocket. However, expect your bike to get a good 20-25% less mpgs on the hwy. I might have kept it on longer, but the chain that came with it was pretty beat. sprocket is like new though.

                          but in all seriousness, when it comes to the 1100 and down to the "best bang for your buck, and sheer practicality, stick with the 532 stock chain and just pick up a spare front sprocket. reasons being...1) 532 is a bit more rugged and last a bit longer than 530 (know that from 20 years as an 1100 owner), and 2), changing out the front sprocket for either +1 or -1 requires no rear wheel removal and no cutting/extending/buying a chain. the difference in OD is so minimal that you can swap out as you wish for hwy or more torque, without changing chain length. and require no more work than loosening the rear wheel and adjusters, then swapping the front sprocket. you have the best of both worlds.

                          but hey...that's just my 2 cents.
                          I don't have a short temper. I just have a quick reaction to bullshit.




                          Comment


                          • #28
                            Originally posted by shpielers View Post
                            Pics!!
                            Looks exactly like mine. Is it painted in Plasti Dip?
                            Attached Files

                            Comment


                            • #29
                              Nope, it's actually some sort of paint meant for outdoor plastic furniture. Needless to say it doesn't really stick to the tank very well. Paint is the last thing that she'll get though. Haven't even had a chance to start on her yet, been busy modding my daily ride (600) and finishing up another project bike. Soooo looking forward to it though.
                              I've priced out springs/emulators/shock and sprockets/chain. Have the $ saved up for them but I really don't need more parts cluttering the limited space I have until I'm about ready to put them on.
                              1998 Katana 750
                              1992 Katana 1100
                              2006 Ninja 250

                              2006 Katana 600 RIP - 130k miles

                              Comment


                              • #30
                                Originally posted by shpielers View Post
                                Nope, it's actually some sort of paint meant for outdoor plastic furniture. Needless to say it doesn't really stick to the tank very well. Paint is the last thing that she'll get though. Haven't even had a chance to start on her yet, been busy modding my daily ride (600) and finishing up another project bike. Soooo looking forward to it though.
                                I've priced out springs/emulators/shock and sprockets/chain. Have the $ saved up for them but I really don't need more parts cluttering the limited space I have until I'm about ready to put them on.
                                I was going to ask about the tank the plastidip rubs off easily there. Sounds like you'll have the same issue.

                                Man that was a good score for you

                                Comment

                                Working...
                                X