I just widen the gap on my plugs to .9!

[DClark]

The book says to gap .5-.7, but I felt like throwing caution to the wind. I have always felt that the narrow gap, in light of the relatively low cr of the motor, was too narrow. I felt that the stock ignition was designed to get the bike off the dealer lot, that's it. I have ND iridium plugs, Dyna coils and did the coil relay mod last Oct, so if there was any bike ready to play with more gap, I felt mine was the one..
i got side tracked with a nasty winter, then I got a new C14, so this stayed on the back burner. Finally did it today.
Idle- feels the same as it did before.
Cruising around 4k rpm-feels a bit smoother
Full power runs- I felt more power after 4k rpm, wheel wanted to come up and wave to any LEO in the area. No easy feat with me living at 4800'. Temp was in the fH*&*king low 40's, like it has been most of this "spring". The one thing I was paying attention to was high rpm miss, where the gap is too wide and the spark is unable to arc. Didn't get any of that. Actually, I could probably go a little wider on the gap, maybe .10. The other mods on the bike are a FP kit and a Kerker 4-1. For those unable to afford a C14, take comfort in hearing that my 17 year old daughter has been on both, felt the g's when I did 1/4 mile freeway entrance and she feels the katana 1100 is a little faster

[BIGKAT1100]

Question .....

how often do the stock coils on these bigkats go bad

[DClark]

As far as I know, almost never.
For those wondering about this mod, keep in mind that I like to keep things CHEAP! I'd suggest keeping your stock coils, get the relays and use whatever plug is in your motor, just enlarge the gap. Total cost will be about $8 for the relay and wire. It is very possible that you will get the same results that I got. If you want, add the iridium plugs to the mix later on.It is possible that adding the dyno coils will not net any perceptible gains as the point of diminishing returns may have been met with stock coils.

[BIGKAT1100]

I've heard things from a couple mechanics that have experienced coils going bad on some Katanas and GSXRs. The issue I'm having I believe are electrical because they're not consistant. Sometimes I'll get sputtering (like a dropped cylinder) between 5k-6k rpms and sometimes it pulls straight thru nice and strong. When it does act up, sometimes I can accelerate thru it and sometimes I almost cant accelerate thru it. At first I was thinking carb rebuild but I was told not to rule out the electrics after sharing the issue I'm having ....

what do you think ?

[DClark]

Honestly, in all the years I have been following this and other forums, I have yet to hear of a coil failure.Not saying it doesn't happen, just don't think it is a common problem.
A coil is just that, a coil. Not much to it, other than maybe the possibility of a bad terminal. WHen I replaced my stock coils (and there was nothing wrong with them), the dyna coils have a terminal that almost touches the frame, which would not be good. I am not sure if the stock ones had the same issue.
It is also possible that the wiring to your coils could have a problem. Try the relay mod and see if it helps.
Edit: if you want to get a taste if you have a bad wire, run a 12g wire from the battery terminal to the orange and white wire on the right side of the front of the valve cover, that is the one that leads to the coil.

[Patch's]

If your problem is intermittent and not rpm specific would you not suspect the leads, I just did some troubleshooting on one of the 1100F I have and used a nifty tracing tool as I knew my voltage was there so thought it to be a grounding issue but turned out I was arching at the boot I changed leads seems ok so far still snowing out here so it's all garage relevant!
So what's the story with the relays are you powering relays to the coils for a more direct battery voltage? Don't mean to sound dumb where can I look it up

[Wild-Bill]

And... A quick search on "coil relay mod" produces: http://katriders.com/vb/showthread.p...ght=coil+relay

[DClark]

FWIW, I also have relays for my headlight with a 80/100w bulb for an incredible improvement in light.

[Kreylyn]

FWIW, I also have relays for my headlight with a 80/100w bulb for an incredible improvement in light.

Have you posted up a write up on the headlights relay option?

Krey

[DClark]

Have you posted up a write up on the headlights relay option?

Krey

I am pretty sure I did, like 10 years ago (or was that a different forum?). From memory, I think I measured a little under 10v at the headlight, with relay, got over 12v, huge diff.Also takes load off the light switch.The bulb I use is a heavy duty uncoated 80/100w bulb.Takes two relays, wire and removing upper fairing. Stock wire to light is I think 22g, which is responsible for the voltage drop.
I have wondered about making it so that the lights don't work during starting (for extra juice on cold mornings) but with the coils, starts up great.
The light pattern is also very pretty.

Forgot to add that my bike has always pinged when the temps are over 95 degrees and the bike is ridden hard. For that reason, I run 91 gas.Don't know exactly why, might be the combo of a timing advancer and a CA spec ignition box.
I am curious to see if that goes away with this mod, will report back in time.

[Kreylyn]

I am pretty sure I did, like 10 years ago (or was that a different forum?). From memory, I think I measured a little under 10v at the headlight, with relay, got over 12v, huge diff.Also takes load off the light switch.The bulb I use is a heavy duty uncoated 80/100w bulb.Takes two relays, wire and removing upper fairing. Stock wire to light is I think 22g, which is responsible for the voltage drop.
I have wondered about making it so that the lights don't work during starting (for extra juice on cold mornings) but with the coils, starts up great.
The light pattern is also very pretty.

Forgot to add that my bike has always pinged when the temps are over 95 degrees and the bike is ridden hard. For that reason, I run 91 gas.Don't know exactly why, might be the combo of a timing advancer and a CA spec ignition box.
I am curious to see if that goes away with this mod, will report back in time.

Thanks for the info on the light mod.

Generally higher octane gas reduces ping from lean running conditions. It could be an issue of temp effecting how the gas/air mixes?

Have you tried a dyno to see your baseline with the new mods yet?

Krey

[DClark]

Thanks for the info on the light mod.

Generally higher octane gas reduces ping from lean running conditions. It could be an issue of temp effecting how the gas/air mixes?

Have you tried a dyno to see your baseline with the new mods yet?

Krey

Haven't been to the dyno lately (went 11 years ago, lol!) and won't as it really doesn't bother me and my 1100 has been relegated to occassional ride status (got the C14).If I am going to spend the $ on dyno time, it will be C14 that gets it, after I install a Area P full exhaust on it!
I definately think it is related to leaness as it did it much more in stock, CA smog spec and man, that bike was tuned real lean.As it is, seems to happen only on real hot days when I am gunning it hard, stop and go, stop speed never more than 45mph, so I can see how the bike is getting a bit hot. I think it would totally disappear if I removed the advancer. i guess I could listen to which point it happens in the rpm range and try to enrich the carbs at that point, but I hate to go down that road as the bike is running just so good now and my daughter even looked in me in the eye and told me that she is sure that it is faster than my new C14! Don't want to raise the needles as that will likely bring back a mid range bog and don't want to change the idle screws as it idles well now and gets good mpg.
So, I'll just keep an ear out on those that can make it pingy and last year, we had maybe 5 days all summer like that.

[BIGKAT1100]

Thanks for the info on the light mod.

Generally higher octane gas reduces ping from lean running conditions. It could be an issue of temp effecting how the gas/air mixes?

Have you tried a dyno to see your baseline with the new mods yet?

Krey

Interesting tidbit:

I had been burning premium gas since I owned the bike and that fore-mentioned condition began a couple years back. I've tried regular gas and she will not run right using 87 octane, then I tried mid-grade (89 octane) and to this point that seems to have righted the issue ...

The manual says:

"Use only unleaded or low-lead type gasoline of at least 85-95 pump octane(\M) method or 89 octane or higher rated by the Research Method"


In my present set up, the 89 octane seems to be the best choice. I'm still thinking upgrade the electrics though.

Appreciate Y'all,
Andre

[Patch's]

I was quit curious about the voltage drop at the coils so I hunted it down and am confident that it is not in the harness but lost volts from the lights.
I checked every ground thinking that was the flaw, measured the volts at the ignitor and measure the resistance from that plug to the coils, measured the volts between the fuse box and the battery about 100mv loss with only the head lamp fuse removed, then measured the volts from the fuse box connection to the ing. switch connection and found a loss of approximately 550mv, I measured the resistance at both ends and found no fault, puzzled I wanted to pull the ignition fuse and ended up pulling the running lights instead and saw that I gained most of the voltage back still measuring at the connection to the ing. switch, I inserted the fuse to the head lamp and that gave me a additional loss of 700mv (10+550+700) 1,260mv or 1.25 volts that explains the reading I had of 10.75v at the coils ignition on engine off. Important to note I monitored the direct voltage throughout and started with 12.2v I wanted to keep the voltage up so hooked it to the charger and waited a bit to level off then just recalibrated and the losses stayed consistent charging at 13.66v through out the tests.
So yes the harness is still good after all these years and the relay mod would make a smart choice in keeping the voltage up at the coils for starting the bike not to mention the loss of voltage when the starter is engaged @ 80 Amps!!!
After the generator kicks in though I would think the loss must still be a factor as it starts at the fuse box and that won't change unless the relay is installed.
Every connection from the battery on had been cleaned and checked at both male/female for loss just to level the field.
1 volt = 1000mv
88 1100F
Patch's

[DClark]

The drop is not from the lights as when the motor is running, the alternator is putting out plenty of juice, almost 14v. The drop is from the size of the wire, which I think is either 22g or 24g.
This wire acts like a long resister.It goes without saying that when doing the relay mod, use at least 12g wire. You can take out circuits and see a gain in voltage, but you will not see the gain I saw simply because the wiring is too thin.
Age of the bike has nothing to do with the drop. Back in '99 when my bike had maybe 6K miles on it, I measured around 10v at the headlight socket. Again, this drop was due to the skinny, skinny wiring. I put relays in and picked up over 2v. That, combined with a good, non tinted, xenon charged 80/100w bulb gave me incredible lighting. The bike has a real sharp cut off so you won't blind other drivers and there are about 5 little gill like lines of light on either side of the front that look cool.
Same principle applies to the coils. If you are doing the coil relay mod, now is also a good time to add relays for the headlights. I have both powered off the + terminal of my battery.