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Dynojet vs Factory review

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  • Dynojet vs Factory review

    I mentioned in another post that I was switching. I have had the dynojet kit on my bike for almost ten years. My bike is a CA model with Kerker 4-1, 5 degree advance, all PAIR stuff removed, and dynacoils.
    My bike never felt right with the Dynakit. I called them and used their recomendations.
    I got a Factory kit, which is a lot different. They don't give you springs, they give you less jets and suggest that you mix richer jets in the mix. The needles are totally different, a gradual taper like stock, unlike the dynojet ones which are more abrupt. Eyeballing the jets, the holes in the smallest factory supplied jets (which were mikunis) were bigger than the holes in the biggest Dynojet supplied jets. In addition, the end of the needles on the factory kit were smaller as well. My conclusion was that the facotry kit would supply a lot more fuel.
    The Dynokit also recomended that I drill out my pilot air jets (which factory said is a stupid idea).
    Long story short- I got some new jets from Suzuki (took a while).
    It has been hard to really get this thing dialed in lately and i don't blame the bike. We got two feet of snow a few weeks ago (can't drive it then, eh?) and after that we still have a bunch of sand and gravel (traction aid) and that's not good.
    Yesterday, I got back to work as anotehr snow storm was on the way.
    I live at 4800' and the temp outside was in the 40's. Factory said to start at 2.75 turns on the idle screws, I had them at 3 and the idle still hung up- it was lean. I turn them to 3.5 turns and tried it. The bike feels great. I won't futz with them again as well, it is cold and whatever I do won't have the same effect on the bike when it 70 degrees in April, with different gas, eh? The bike sounds better anf the power is more tractable. I took it on a freeway onramp and the extra power was really apparent. I have been driving this bike for ten years never seeing its full potential. How much more power? I'd say about 15hp. I say this because when I go down to sea level, it has a lot more power (of course!) and it pulls strong. Right now, it feels like it has as much power at 5000' as it did with the dynakit at sea level.
    Fuel economy- I saw hat thread here as well. I have no idea with the factory kit on if it will change or has changed. In the past with dyna I got a high of 43, but on long trips of late, I got 38-39. I don't know if that is good, bad or the partial result of CA gas. I can say that on those trips, I was driving about 70-75 mph steady with a $hit load of luggage (Chase harper bags full of stuff, tank bag and a large duffle bag, with wheels, bungeed to the back seat, just to make sure that I have crap aerodynamics!). I'll find out this spring. I'll say that the wierd carb problems that my bike started experiencing (excessive leaness, popping) have disappeared since I installed the factory kit. Oh, and one more thing- I put on 16,000 miles with the Dynojet kit and in that time, wore out THREE sets of emulsion tubes- wtf???!!! I think there is something evil going on with the Dynojet needles. At any rate, I have, for a while, dreamed of getting rid of the kat and getting a new Goldwing. Now, it feels so much like a different bike that I think I can live with the old kitty for awhile:mrgreen: I have three coats of Klasse on it and I put another coat of Collinite on it last night, and replaced the 55/65w bulb with a 80/100w Eiko. I really can't wait to take this bad kat on another long ride!
    Final word- if you have dynajet kit, seriously consider spending a $130 for factory kit. Almost no one still offers the kit, you might have to get it from Factory direct like I did- do it before they are all gone. If you don't have a jet kit, do NOT get a dynojet kit. If you do, bring your bike over to my place so I can put my foot up your rear!

  • #2
    I have never seen a factory jet kit listed anywhere for a 1988 GSX1100F, you must have a newer Kat. Do you know if the factory kit for the later years is the same as for a 88? This is why I bought a Dynojet kit, I have not installed it yet and probably won't as the bike is for sale. A prospective buyer might want to know if there is a factory kit available for this bike, so any info would be appreciated.

    Comment


    • #3
      I am pretty much, 99.99% sure that it will work on an '88. I say that because I think the carbs were the same through '93. They talk about it not working on plastic topped carbs, so you can check on that. But I am sure that all the carbs were the same 34mm mikunis. I'll check it out in my manual. I think that it was a misprint.
      The two kits are sooo different that one has to be good and one has to be bad- I figured that one!
      The Factory needle has the same shape as the stock needle, except the taper at the end is a bit smaller for more fuel.
      Open up the Dynokit and look at the needles, you'll see what I mean.

      Comment


      • #4
        I run a Factory Jet kit here and so far, absolute flawless performance. It has been on there about 5 years or so.
        "I have told you all this so that you may have peace in me. Here on earth you will have many trials and sorrows. But take heart, because I have overcome the world."
        JOHN 16:33

        Comment


        • #5
          I'd warn you against changing to that size of a head light, unless you are changing all of the wiring. Trust me, it's not pretty when the wiring melts.

          <-- First hand experience

          New to Katriders? Click Here!

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          • #6
            see there you go. How long have I been saying that? How long has CP been saying that? Dynojet does in fact suck large farm animals.

            Comment


            • #7
              Originally posted by Gytrdunkat View Post
              I'd warn you against changing to that size of a head light, unless you are changing all of the wiring. Trust me, it's not pretty when the wiring melts.

              <-- First hand experience
              No problem. A long time ago, I put in some JC WHiteny sourced relays into my headlights, draws power from the battery.I ran a 80/100w for awhile until the bulb went out. When it went out, rather than order a new one on the net, I just put in a 55/65 that had laying around. Eiko makes two 80/100w bulbs, regular and "heavy duty". I got the latter, hoping it would hold up to the vibration of my bike.
              The wiring plug on my harness looked in fine shape, no heat damage. The light put out is excellent- good dispersion.
              The stock wiring for the bike is rather scary- thin wire and the power for the headlight goes through the switch, not good.
              All of my wiring is 16g (damn, it is big stuff!) and I saw the voltage to the bulb jump well over 1.5v, a huge jump, even with a stock bulb, made a lot more light.
              I gotta add that this mod to my bike was the cheapest of all (bulb, wire, relays) and was the most satisfying as well. I like hearing the relays click when I put the key in, I love how the light has a gilled look at the sides. The last thing I'd like to do is somehow figure out a way for the lights to not come on until a few seconds after the bike got started- this would help it start easier, especially when it is sub freezing.

              Comment


              • #8
                Originally posted by arsenic1016 View Post
                How long have I been saying that? How long has CP been saying that?

                As long as I have been here.
                "I have told you all this so that you may have peace in me. Here on earth you will have many trials and sorrows. But take heart, because I have overcome the world."
                JOHN 16:33

                Comment


                • #9
                  Originally posted by arsenic1016 View Post
                  see there you go. How long have I been saying that? How long has CP been saying that? Dynojet does in fact suck large farm animals.
                  Who is "CP"?

                  Comment


                  • #10
                    The CyberPoet

                    Comment


                    • #11
                      Originally posted by danp2630 View Post
                      I have never seen a factory jet kit listed anywhere for a 1988 GSX1100F, you must have a newer Kat. Do you know if the factory kit for the later years is the same as for a 88? This is why I bought a Dynojet kit, I have not installed it yet and probably won't as the bike is for sale. A prospective buyer might want to know if there is a factory kit available for this bike, so any info would be appreciated.

                      I have an 88 and I'm running Dyno-Jet. From what I understand from what I've read the carbs are different for the 88 model. They can be adjusted to run out good though. The kit I got was for 89-93 but my guy "dialed" it in for me. Now, it works good with the set-up I'm runnng (4-1 header; Yoshi front and Muzzy cannister, K&N stock air filter, 5* ignition adv, and the fore-mentioned jet kit).

                      The 1988 also had smaller carburetors (Mikuni BST34SS) than the later models (Mikuni BST36SS), a carb kit for an 89-94 GSX1100F will not work.
                      Last edited by BIGKAT1100; 01-21-2008, 08:36 PM.
                      The people who think they know everything always mess it up for those of us who do .....



                      BIGKAT1100

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                      • #12
                        nope, according to the manual the carbs and stock jetting are identical.
                        Mikuni BST34SS
                        Main jets
                        Cyl. 1 & 4 - 112.5
                        Cyl. 2 & 3 - 110
                        Main air jet - .6mm
                        jet needles
                        US except CA - 5DL11
                        Needle jet
                        US except CA - P-2
                        Pilot jet
                        US except CA - 32.5
                        pilot air jet
                        US except CA - 135
                        Pilot screws - preset
                        Starter jet - 42.5
                        float height - 14.6 +/- 1mm

                        Comment


                        • #13
                          One thing that I know is that no katana 1100 got 36mm carbs; they are all 34mm. It sounds strange that the 88 would be different.
                          Also, for those who wonder if "bigger is better:, I remember seeing a sight called "7/11", a sight for those who would squeeze 1100 motors into 750 chasis, there was pro/con page on the 34/36/38 carbs and I remember that a lot of the builders prefered the 34 because they gave great torque/tractability and, with an airbox, were easy to tune.
                          Big Kat- I have a feeling that your bike would be happier with a factory kit. For example, note how the bike came with staggered main jets (see the post above from the manual). Dynojet doesn't suggest this (they should!). You might want to dig out your plastic dynojet box and check out the jets that are in there. Based on what I have seen in their jet/needle size, if you think you are twisting the throttle at full max, you aren't, it is only at 3/4 throttle. That extra 1/4? You'll need a Factory kit to see that.
                          Oh, and that float hight? I think that it might run better if it was at exactly 15 (NOT 14.6). Mine, last time I checked, were at 14.6 exactly, but I think they'd do better just a touch higher ( think factory agrees). I would have changed it but I don't know where my %#$(@ gauge is (I haven't used it in years). My next I'll do will be to dig out my carb stix and check the sync on the bike.

                          Comment


                          • #14
                            Originally posted by arsenic1016 View Post
                            see there you go. How long have I been saying that? How long has CP been saying that? Dynojet does in fact suck large farm animals.
                            Yeah yeah , I know . But I've had the DJ kit in my bike since I BOUGHT the thing , so I'll make it work as best I can before giving up and shelling out $130 for FP . I've had it running FAIRLY smooth before even with all the problems . Like buttery smooth throttle response , which is what I usually gauge "running right" by . My aim this year is to get it as close as I can , then hit up an EGA and see what THEY have to say ...... If I can't get it feeling right , or if I DO and the dyno claims it's WAY off , THEN I'll admit defeat ......
                            I am a fluffy lil cuddly lovable bunny , dammit !



                            Katrider's rally 2011 - md86

                            Comment


                            • #15


                              GSX1100F Specifications 1989—1997

                              Engine Type: 4-Stroke, 4-Cylinder, Air Cooled with SACS, DOHC, TSCC
                              Piston Displacement: 1127 cc
                              Bore/Stroke: 78.0 mm x 59.0 mm
                              Compression Ratio: 10:1
                              Carburetor: Mikuni BST36SS, four
                              Starter System: Electric
                              Transmission: 5-Speed Constant Mesh
                              Overall Length: 2205 mm (86.8 in)
                              Overall Width: 765 mm (30.1 in.)
                              Overall Height: adjustable screen
                              Screen up: 1290 mm (50.8 in.)
                              Screen down: 1200 mm (47.2 in.)
                              Wheelbase: 1535 mm (60.4 in.)
                              Ground Clearance: 130 mm (5.1 in)
                              Seat Height: 795 mm (31.3 in.)
                              Dry Mass: UK 251 kg (553 lbs.)
                              Suspension:
                              Front Telescopic, oil damped, spring preload fully adjustable
                              Rear New-link suspension, gas/oil damped, spring preload fully adjustable, damping force extension 4-way compression 20-way adjustable
                              Brakes:
                              Front Disc, twin
                              Rear Disc
                              Tires:
                              Front 120/80 VB16 V250
                              Rear 150/80 VB16 V250
                              Ignition Type: Electronic ignition
                              Fuel Tank (including reserve): 20 ltr (5.3/4.4 US/Imp gal)



                              Note the carb size listed here...BST36SS ???
                              Possibly why the kit for the 89-93 won't work on a 88??

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