Anyone Dyno their Kat1100?

[Swampy]

Curious - how much HP can one get out of these beasts with a little tuning?

I have a '89 1127 GSXF1100 : yosh 4:1, Stage 1 jet kit. I use a stock airbox and filter.

If I were to keep her for a while and get access to a dyno - what do think we could accomplish in terms of HP?

Might be a good winter project.

[Mojoe]

stock is 136hp at the front sprocket. you might be at 142 to 145 with what you added.

you can hit 200+ with that 1127 engine if your wallet is deep enough.

[ITS_NOT_A_KNIFE]

im building a drag bike so im all ears well in this case eyes....im having a hard time finding parts and info on this bike, not much written on here or much to say the net in general

[NiteMare]

im building a drag bike so im all ears well in this case eyes....im having a hard time finding parts and info on this bike, not much written on here or much to say the net in general

you wanna shed weight on that drag bike ??

it might be worth you keeping an eye open for a gsxr750l or m frame and fuel tank, that 7/11 fighter of mine feels like it's about half the weight of my powerscreen, try and get it complete with swingarm and caliper hanger (or as many parts as possible), 5.5" rear rim, 180 tyre ...

your primary problem then will be keeping the front end on the floor so you may be needing a stretched swingarm (drag slots welded in)

[ITS_NOT_A_KNIFE]

well weight isnt going to be a problem.....ill be cutting and tapping lots of alum on to the thing.....i bought the bike for $550 last night.....im steering away from the gixxers, everyone i came across that had one were *ssholes.....i had no problem beating them with my 600 (6 vs 6)....plus i dont see why a fully weighted 1100 with some mods couldnt hang with a stock busa.....havent seen anyone at the track with one hit a 9 yet....and the 1100 is spec'd at 10.8

will a 180 fit in the swingarm
and whats involved with the 5.5" the rear brake is easy to fab and make work, but what is needed to fit the rims itself

[NiteMare]

the bonus with the 5.5" rim is it's a 17" which will give you a wider choice of tyres as well as putting more rubber on the tarmac ...

my 750 frame used to carry the spindly 18" rims (150 rear tyre), i bought a 5.5 with every thing but spacers and spindle, i used the slabby spindle and one spacer, had to sift thru my box of bits to find a spacer for the other side, i was lucky and bought a wheel off a guy that knew the size i needed to match my spindle ...

the possible problem you may find is there are 2 or 3 different diameter spindles for the 5.5" wheels (i think) and i'm not sure of the diameter of the gsx1100f rear spindle (which could be yet another size)..

i was going to fit a busa swingarm in my 7/11 at one point, i had sleeved the pivot point and made sleeves to reduce the spindle point (went right thru the adjusters) but gave up as the wheel looked to skinny in it (comes with a 6" as standard), also would have required a stepped output sprocket if i fitted a busa wheel

p.s.
if you really want to spend money on gaining hp and learn a lot about tuning these engines then google oldskoolsuzuki , the guys there have probably forgotten more than you'll learn on your own, don't call your bike a katana there as they'll be thinking you're talking about an aircooled bike, call it a powerscreen or teapot, they'll know exactly what ya talking about then, introduce yaself in "oilcooled"

hope that helps

[ITS_NOT_A_KNIFE]

thanks for the info nitemare

[Mojoe]

im building a drag bike so im all ears well in this case eyes....im having a hard time finding parts and info on this bike, not much written on here or much to say the net in general

you need to be more than all ears or eyes. you also need to be willing to spend some cash. the busa is what....180ish hp? it has 50hp over your kat.
I really think you are setting yourself up for disappointment. STOP thinking about going after one of the "fastest bikes on the planet" with an old 1990 1127, for the time being.

here is what I suggest for starters if you REALLY want to come close to being in the same class:

"Low cost" first:

pull the head off the engine, then remove all hardware from the head, including valves. then dig out your dermel or die-grinder and start to port and polish the the intake and exhaust ports. Polishing is self explanatory. you basically just smooth the roughness from the casting. Porting is matching the diameter of the port with the diameter of the intake boots. the diameter of the intake boots is slightly larger than the intake ports, so there is a small lip at the union of the two. you accomplish this by applying some blueing to the intake face of the head, then sitting an intake boot in place and using a scriber to mark what has to come off. then you go at it with the grinder. the end result is a perfect union of the intake boot to the intake port. the removal of that "lip" will dramatically improve the flow. it will be ultra smooth compared to the "turbulence" that comes from the stock setup. This procedure is ultra low-cost. The only purchase that has to be made is possibly a new head gasket, although more often than not, you can re-install the old gasket. There are hundreds of illustrated "how to's" on the net to walk you through this. all you need to do is type "how to port and polish a head" into google and you will find them. This procedure alone can net you a good solid 15hp gain, if not more. It depends how "flawed" your head was to start with.

next step:

this next step is to install new valves and springs. a 2mm increase in valve size with the addition of heavier duty springs will compliment the polishing/porting job. the benefits of larger valve is obvious. more fuel/air mixture coming in, and faster and more efficient exhaust. the new valve springs will keep the valves from "floating". the stock springs (especially 18yr old springs) will not snap the valves shut as fast and new heavy duty springs. when your valves "float", it means at high rpms, some of your fuel/air mixture is lost through the exhaust as the exhaust valve is not quite seated fast enough. how much is gained depends on your current setup. I can see a good 10hp easily gained by this procedure.

this is a good (and necessary) place to start if you want to achieve the goals you have set to compete with the other "big boys". and it is relatively cheap to do it you can do it yourself. too often people will go and install a big bore kit, but totally neglect to do any head work. imho, it is a grave mistake. the head is like the heart of the engine. I don't care how big you go on the bore, it is not going to show it's true potential if the head is ignored. I will be willing to bet that a port/polish on the head will give you the same gain on a stock engine as it would if you installed a larger bore kit. also, the head work will allow you to install larger carbs. 39mm's would easily be possible to install.

[ITS_NOT_A_KNIFE]

damn you'd made me feel like i just got into this....the 1100 is a rotary engine right.......lol

these engines arent any different than anyother inline four, well except the timing chain location.....the busa's and others are just a goal.....no sense in building something with out one......im trying to stay some what true to the kat....if i wanted to race a busa out the box i would have boughten one or a gixxer 1000.....lol......

thanks for the help everyone, also hp doesnt mean squat.....last time i checked the busa tipped the scale at 600 something.....power to weight ratio is what im going for

[Mojoe]

go to http://gsxrzone.com/enginekits.html and scroll down to the 1100 kits.
the SSR1216 will make you quite happy, I am sure

[ITS_NOT_A_KNIFE]

i think i would opt. for the 1340 if i were to do some machining on this motor......so i take it almost everything is interchangable from the gsx1100r.....air/oil cooled i mean

[NiteMare]

go to http://gsxrzone.com/enginekits.html and scroll down to the 1100 kits.
the SSR1216 will make you quite happy, I am sure

there's a lad not too far away from me who's fitted a 1216 kit to his bandit 12 (1157 engine), an awful lot of money for next to no gain in hp, he didn't touch the head and just has a dynojet kit in the carbs ...
those parts possibly ran to about £500 gbp, i feel they were fitted more for bragging rights and an assumption of power....

the problems that will be encountered with the even bigger kits will be the cases will need machining, big blocks or big liners pressed in, heat disappation may become a problem, new carbs (bigger), probable new cams or reprofiling, heavy duty block studs and you'll probably want a lock up clutch kit to kill the clutch slip ... aaaargh forgot the helical cut primary, you'll be wanting a straight cut basket and crank (gsxr1100) for when you go for the turbo ...

all of this will count for nothing when you get the odd guy turn up on his built up turbo busa producing 350+ hp
btw, i believe the 1340 kit is not at all practical for use on the street due to previously mentioned heat problems

[suzy1052]

Hello everyone, as a former owner of a 92 big Kat(ride a 89 ZX10 now) I thought I would chime in on this thread.The cheapest bang for the buck I got was putting on a "Slingshot" head from the 88-89 GSXR750 along with 89 GSXR1100 cams.Talk about waking up!!!The Slingshot head has the same size valves as the GSXR1100 and will increase compression.In fact so much so I thought about removing the ignition advancer as it pinged all the time below 3 grand unless I used 100+ octane.With stock carbs and a 4-1 Yosh the roll on response was unreal.You had to really start planning for your empty gaps on the freeway because once you cracked the throttle you were THERE whether you wanted to be there or not.Total cost was under 200.00 as I did the labor myself.Never had it dynoed but judging by my current 132 hp bike it wasnt far behind.

[BIGKAT1100]

Hello everyone, as a former owner of a 92 big Kat(ride a 89 ZX10 now) I thought I would chime in on this thread.The cheapest bang for the buck I got was putting on a "Slingshot" head from the 88-89 GSXR750 along with 89 GSXR1100 cams.Talk about waking up!!!The Slingshot head has the same size valves as the GSXR1100 and will increase compression.In fact so much so I thought about removing the ignition advancer as it pinged all the time below 3 grand unless I used 100+ octane.With stock carbs and a 4-1 Yosh the roll on response was unreal.You had to really start planning for your empty gaps on the freeway because once you cracked the throttle you were THERE whether you wanted to be there or not.Total cost was under 200.00 as I did the labor myself.Never had it dynoed but judging by my current 132 hp bike it wasnt far behind.

What do you think of that ZX10 ? I had a couple of chances to get one but the idea of going backwards as far as model years did not sit with me to well. Gimme some feed back on that bike. I've ridden a couple of ZX11's but really can't say about the 10. I am currently running an 88 1100 Katana with 4-1 yosh front/mid pipe mated to a Muzzy cannister, K&N filter (factory airbox), 5* ign/adv, and the Dyno-Jet 1 stage. She pulls hard but, of course, I want better.

[suzy1052]

I thought about the not going backwards thing too but look at it this way.The last model year for the Kat was 93.Throughout its life it used early 80s technology-air cooling and sidedraft carbs.The 88 ZX10 is the next progression of Superbike technology-liquid cooled,downdraft carbs and wide tires plus some other crap we cant pronounce much less understand how its better.Dont get me wrong I liked the Katana but I wanted something that handled better and if I found one real cheap that needed some work I might get it.When I first rode the ZX10 I wasnt impressed at all as I felt my Katana could keep up with it easily.After giving it a complete tuneup and dialing in the carbs it pulled much stronger/harder on the topend but Im sure my old Kat would beat it in roll-on.This past summer I put in ZX11 pistons and cams along with a V&H Power Pak.While I had the head off I cleaned up the intake ports and I beat stock ZX11s with ease as long as we dont go for all out top speed.The ZX11 ram air adds another 8-10 hp once the air starts getting crammed in there.This thing pulls as hard in 6th gear as it does in 3rd or 4th.In top gear at 120-130 mph its still pulling real hard.From what I remember a stock Kat puts 113 hp to the ground and a stock ZX10 puts 119 to the ground so they are close with the Kat having the edge in lower gear roll ons however once you get in to higher gear/rpm the ZX10 will pull away.