dyno jet

[jfwilliams23]

Getting ready to install a Dyno jet kit on my 97 750. It was originally hitting a flat spot bout 3-4k. The dyno jet instructions say to block the two holes on each side of the needle port in the slide? I was just wondering if someone has done this and if they ran into any problems with the install, wanted to check before I start, hate finding out after the fact.

[mreedohio]

[FloridaKat]

Mods - Please move to proper location.

[jfwilliams23]

I'm learning

OK, so I'm an idiot, and wasn't paying attention to the section or forum that I was in. I don't know how to move the thread.

[Trackerrrr]

You're not an idiot, the moderators will move the thread eventually. You should have some little white plugs in the kit I'm guessing that are used to plug the holes. My '89 750 had the Dyno jet kit in it when I got it and had those little plugs in the slides. Check this thread out for help also.

[jfwilliams23]

I've already read the carb thread, did it first. It just didn't have any real detail bout the jet kit. Are you pretty comfortable with the performance of the kit in your bike with the white plugs in place?

[jfwilliams23]

what is the float bowl vent tube, can't find it on my diagrams?

[Kfreak]

Those little white plugs are correctors. They are smaller than the original hole but it doesn't completely block the hole. At least my kit doesn't. The smaller hole will cause the slides to open faster. The instructions are pretty clear on how to install, unless you lost them.
The vent tubes stick strait up off the carbs and there are two. I had to remove mine, why, I have no clue.

[md86]

Actually , I would think the smaller holes would make the slides SLOWER . More effort to push the air on the topside through those little holes to make the slides rise & all that .....
Yeah , mine were missing (the restrictors) when I bought the bike . After I found out , I JB's the holes closed , and drilled my own . Worked WAY better afterwards .

[jfwilliams23]

So, I cleaned the carbs and installed the jet kit (It went a lot easier than I expected, I'm used to doing singles with cables. I was just a little nervous about these), the 3-4k flat spot is gone and bike runs great, except it needs the choke on (just a little) to run. I set the A/F screw at 2 1/4 as suggested in carb 101, but I think that with temp and elev. I may need to go to 2 1/2. It gets tagged tuesday, can't wait to go for my first ride.

Thanks to all

[depths_of_mind]

You may want to increase your Idle screw then. You shouldn't need the choke on at all to run, just to initally start and warm up. You'll end up running rich and fowling yer plugs by constantly running with the choke on.

OH.. but glad it went easy for ya

[Kfreak]

Actually , I would think the smaller holes would make the slides SLOWER . More effort to push the air on the topside through those little holes to make the slides rise & all that .....
Yeah , mine were missing (the restrictors) when I bought the bike . After I found out , I JB's the holes closed , and drilled my own . Worked WAY better afterwards .

I think we have been here before. I understand what you are saying. What lifts the slide in the first place? Is it vacuum from the top of the carb?

[md86]

You know dude , now I'm not so sure anymore . I'll have to grab an old set of carbs and take a REAL close look again . You MAY be right ...

[Kfreak]

The only thing that get's me is, DynoJet says to remove one of the correctors per slide for heavy street riding. You may be right on what you are saying. With the slide snapping open faster does it allow more air faster or more fuel faster into the cylinders? Where's all of the carb guys when we need them? Or all of the engineers that actually think of this stuff?

[md86]

More air faster in turn means more fuel faster .....