1988 600 Ignitor Issues No Start

[Badmojo]

Well it's been awhile since I was last here but to much going on to work on my bike project. But, time has come back to me and I went to get the bike going but it won't start.

It will pop every once in a while but just won't take off. It gets gas turns over fine but no go. The manual says it it's a spark issue. I tested the trigger and I get 165 ohms which the book says is in spec. So that leaves the Ignitor. The book doesn't say a way to test that so I assume that's it. I hate to waste money if I don't need to.

I think I cooked it if that's possible. One of the last things I did to the bike was use a heat gun to remove hot glue that was all over the ignitor. I was careful but I guess not enough. But it was really ugly! This is my guess.

I would appreciate any thoughts on the issue. I looked but couldn't find any "reasonable" priced units. Can you tell me will 88-97 ignitors for a 600 work? Is a California unit different?

Thanks for your time.

[Badmojo]

No Answers

Is my question that silly I get no answers? Not even a flamer?

[jarvis]

Try testing

Well it's been awhile since I was last here but to much going on to work on my bike project. But, time has come back to me and I went to get the bike going but it won't start.

It will pop every once in a while but just won't take off. It gets gas turns over fine but no go. The manual says it it's a spark issue. I tested the trigger and I get 165 ohms which the book says is in spec. So that leaves the Ignitor. The book doesn't say a way to test that so I assume that's it. I hate to waste money if I don't need to.

I think I cooked it if that's possible. One of the last things I did to the bike was use a heat gun to remove hot glue that was all over the ignitor. I was careful but I guess not enough. But it was really ugly! This is my guess.

I would appreciate any thoughts on the issue. I looked but couldn't find any "reasonable" priced units. Can you tell me will 88-97 ignitors for a 600 work? Is a California unit different?

Thanks for your time.

[92xjunker]

Did you check plugs, wires and boots? test for spark? No difference for Cali model

[Badmojo]

Yep

Hey it's nice to see I'm not alone. I can get ignored at home!

Plugs are fine, wires and boots A-OK, thin blue spark.....

[Kreylyn]

Post the part # and a pic of the ICM and I'll see if I have a match to confirm what will work for you.

I have a few parts for sale.

Krey

[Badmojo]

My Unit

Thanks for the reply.

Here are pics of the Ignitor.

The part number I assume is 32900-19C00 this is the number in the top area of the sticker the black area. These are the other numbers on it, in order of occurrence, 131800-5080 12V TNBF03 and a large "G". Some of the numbers are a little fuzzy due to all the hot glue. You got me, maybe it was bad b4 though I see no cracks and such.

[92xjunker]

If you are getting spark the the cdi is working, check your fuel supply and air intake.

[Kreylyn]

Thanks for the reply.

Here are pics of the Ignitor.

The part number I assume is 32900-19C00 this is the number in the top area of the sticker the black area. These are the other numbers on it, in order of occurrence, 131800-5080 12V TNBF03 and a large "G". Some of the numbers are a little fuzzy due to all the hot glue. You got me, maybe it was bad b4 though I see no cracks and such.

That's what I needed. I'll check tonight with the one's I have and see.

If you are getting spark the the cdi is working, check your fuel supply and air intake.

Unfortunately that's not always true. Ask Taltec about his CDI issue for example. His would start and idle fine, but at 4k rpms in gear going down the road it would just not do any more.

Krey

[92xjunker]

That is possible but, he states that he is getting good spark while trying to start, He should get more than a stutter and pop with good spark, Intermitent spark would show with an after fire or back fire,?????

[Kreylyn]

That is possible but, he states that he is getting good spark while trying to start, He should get more than a stutter and pop with good spark, Intermitent spark would show with an after fire or back fire,?????

Only if that intermittent spark is specific to a single cylinder on it's compression stroke, and only if your getting spark/heat to ignite the fuel properly still intermittently.

The coils work on a wasted spark setup. So each rpm they should spark 2 times. The only time the cylinder will fire is on the compressed stroke of the piston, so the second time the same cylinder plug sparks does not cause burn. If the coils are only recieving signal to fire once per rpm, then you will see "spark" on every plug that looks good, but it isn't being applied at the compression stroke of 2 of the cylinders. Try taking a good running Kat and unplugging 1 each of the coil wires to the plugs and see how well and if it will run. That would be basically the same thing as a ICM having the described issue.

That's just one possible scenario...

I'm not saying it's 100% the ICM, but ... he's stated it's been "modified"... and that usually doesn't work out as well. If nothing else, he can rule it out 100% with a known good one, which is pretty much the only way to test the old one.

Krey

[92xjunker]

got it...

[Badmojo]

spark

The spark seems to me thin. My lawn mower has fatter spark. It's not yellow spark, it's blue, but thin. Maybe I expect too much and this is proper. I thought maybe it was a ground issue. Checked them and seem fine. Coils, both put out thin spark so it's something common to them. The plugs get gas. The air is fine it has little chrome foamies on it but they worked before.

The bike had a fuel issue when I got it. I took the tank acid cleaned it, used por15 in it. Rebuilt the petcock. Took apart the headlight assembly welded the headlight frame and straightened it. Drilled a busted exhaust stud and removed hot glue with a heat gun from the ignitor, carefully mind you. That's all, it didn't run great before that but it ran.

Did a compression test on it 100,80,90,110 not in that order. Time for a rebuild but it ran. Actually ran pretty strong.

When I get this issue fixed I plan on pulling the motor and re-ringing it. And clean paint and repair from there. But I don't want to until this problem is rectified else I'll just compound the problem.

I appreciate the help, I just don't wanna pour money down a rabbit hole. That and I better know what I'm talking about when I go to my financier and surely I don't wanna explain to her "that didn't fix it".lol

[Kreylyn]

The spark seems to me thin. My lawn mower has fatter spark. It's not yellow spark, it's blue, but thin. Maybe I expect too much and this is proper. I thought maybe it was a ground issue. Checked them and seem fine. Coils, both put out thin spark so it's something common to them. The plugs get gas. The air is fine it has little chrome foamies on it but they worked before.

The bike had a fuel issue when I got it. I took the tank acid cleaned it, used por15 in it. Rebuilt the petcock. Took apart the headlight assembly welded the headlight frame and straightened it. Drilled a busted exhaust stud and removed hot glue with a heat gun from the ignitor, carefully mind you. That's all, it didn't run great before that but it ran.

Did a compression test on it 100,80,90,110 not in that order. Time for a rebuild but it ran. Actually ran pretty strong.

When I get this issue fixed I plan on pulling the motor and re-ringing it. And clean paint and repair from there. But I don't want to until this problem is rectified else I'll just compound the problem.

I appreciate the help, I just don't wanna pour money down a rabbit hole. That and I better know what I'm talking about when I go to my financier and surely I don't wanna explain to her "that didn't fix it".lol

Well, before you buy anything I would verify you have 11+v at the coils on the orange wires with the key on. If you don't have that, then you got a power issue that will cause weak spark and the bike won't start cold well at all.

Krey

[Badmojo]

volts at orange wire

Well, before you buy anything I would verify you have 11+v at the coils on the orange wires with the key on. If you don't have that, then you got a power issue that will cause weak spark and the bike won't start cold well at all.

Krey

11.52 volts.

I was cleaning connections. Check check and re-checking. I pulled the air cleaners off, and one of the carbs had gasoline pooling around the jet there in the inlet side. I soaked it up and more filled it!

I pulled the plugs and there wet. Dripping wet. All of them. When I first went out I tried to start it, hell ya never know, if it can spontaneously break maybe it can fix itself too! But it purred a couple of times, then the more I tried to start it the less it tried to start. Flooded itself maybe?

I've checked the plugs before and they were wet so I assumed, "well it's getting gas, not the problem".

The gas tank had rust, and pinholes and the petcock was corroded also. Perhaps the floats are stuck? The carbs seemed to operate fine, perhaps I aggravated them!

Also I took an old spark plug and bent the electrode way out and I could still get a blue to orange spark. At about 3/16". I looked in the manual posted here and it covers allot more than the Clymers I bought.

What are the thoughts on this? Do I need to have this thread moved to fuel issues? hmmm. I took the carbs off. Will crack them open and take a peek there just to be sure.