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doing the coil relay mod

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  • doing the coil relay mod

    hi guys been having starting issues and as i have already eliminated sparkplugs, carbs and valve clearances & its such a cheap mod im going to do the coil relay mod if only to eliminate coil power as a starting issue


    i have ordered this relay http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/160702272953?ssPageName=STRK:MEWNX:IT&_trksid=p398 4.m1439.l2648

    this wire i think is up to the task http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/2905407503...84.m1439.l2649

    im not 100% sure on the wire can anybody confirm it for me ?

    i have spade connectors ect already

    just want it back to starting on the button like when i first got it

  • #2
    Originally posted by fireyphoenix1989 View Post
    hi guys been having starting issues and as i have already eliminated sparkplugs, carbs and valve clearances & its such a cheap mod im going to do the coil relay mod if only to eliminate coil power as a starting issue


    i have ordered this relay http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/160702272953?ssPageName=STRK:MEWNX:IT&_trksid=p398 4.m1439.l2648

    this wire i think is up to the task http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/2905407503...84.m1439.l2649

    im not 100% sure on the wire can anybody confirm it for me ?

    i have spade connectors ect already

    just want it back to starting on the button like when i first got it
    My suggestion... not saying what you have listed won't work ,but... my suggestion would be...

    Use a 30amp rated wire.

    Use a 30 amp inline fuse directly after pulling power off the battery.

    Use a wire that is singularly insulated (the dual wire setup isn't needed as listed in the ebay listing).

    Don't cut/alter or change your stock harness. Make/use connectors to instal the relay mod so that it is all plug and play (and easily removable if you want later).


    Krey
    93 750 Kat



    Modified Swingarm, 5.5 GSXR Rear with 180/55 and 520 Chain, 750 to 600 Tail conversion, more to come. Long Term Project build thread http://katriders.com/vb/showthread.php?t=96736

    "I've done this a thousand times before. What could possibly go wron.... Ooops!"

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    • #3
      for some reason this didnt post properly see below for actual post :S
      Last edited by fireyphoenix1989; 05-23-2012, 03:12 PM.

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      • #4
        You can't use a 30 AMP fuse with 15 amp wire, that will melt the wire. Have to be similarly rated.

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        • #5
          Originally posted by Kreylyn View Post

          Use a 30amp rated wire.

          Use a 30 amp inline fuse directly after pulling power off the battery.

          Use a wire that is singularly insulated (the dual wire setup isn't needed as listed in the ebay listing).
          thanks kreylyn

          i bought some of the dual wire as it was so cheap lol hardware stores round my area are rubbish

          looking at it am i right in thinking this fog lamp wireing kit has everything i need in it ? only thing i can see would need changing is the pair of 15 amp fuses .



          also would i be right in thinking i could use a fog light kit as a headlight relay?

          thanks

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          • #6
            Originally posted by fireyphoenix1989 View Post
            thanks kreylyn

            i bought some of the dual wire as it was so cheap lol hardware stores round my area are rubbish

            looking at it am i right in thinking this fog lamp wireing kit has everything i need in it ? only thing i can see would need changing is the pair of 15 amp fuses .



            also would i be right in thinking i could use a fog light kit as a headlight relay?

            thanks
            That "kit" is basically the same thing as you would use for the relay mod, yes. The only diff is the "switch" is not a nessasary option.

            Krey
            93 750 Kat



            Modified Swingarm, 5.5 GSXR Rear with 180/55 and 520 Chain, 750 to 600 Tail conversion, more to come. Long Term Project build thread http://katriders.com/vb/showthread.php?t=96736

            "I've done this a thousand times before. What could possibly go wron.... Ooops!"

            Comment


            • #7
              The coil relay mod is worth doing anyway, but how's your battery? These things seem to get temperamental on starting once the battery begins to lose its bite. (It might even crank OK but there's not enough voltage left over to fire the coils properly.) This mod might help to mask that for a while, but there is obviously some other issue - battery / leads / coils / harness ...???

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              • #8
                Originally posted by TRPUT View Post
                The coil relay mod is worth doing anyway, but how's your battery? These things seem to get temperamental on starting once the battery begins to lose its bite. (It might even crank OK but there's not enough voltage left over to fire the coils properly.) This mod might help to mask that for a while, but there is obviously some other issue - battery / leads / coils / harness ...???
                yup. they wont start if the battery is a little under 12 V or cant handle any load. because its a battery ignition system, the battery is used to crank the engine over AND ignite the spark plugs. if the battery is good, then its a great system and you wont have any problem... however if the battery is bad or the starter is drawing to much then it probably wont start even tho the engine might be turning over quick enough

                i'm honestly not sure what this mod is or will accomplish but if its proven to help with a weaker battery then go for it
                Last edited by boomer_95; 05-23-2012, 05:50 PM.
                if all else fails......... Get a hammer

                parting out my 89 Kat 750

                Comment


                • #9
                  Originally posted by boomer_95 View Post
                  i'm honestly not sure what this mod is or will accomplish but if its proven to help with a weaker battery then go for it
                  The OEM wiring harness design utilizes a multi connection pathing for power from the battery that is shared by multiple sources. Simply put... the power provided to the coils has multiple connections and is shared with other sources such as the head light.

                  On a brand new bike... with new connections, new wires, and a good battery... there is no real issue.

                  On older bikes, the wire degrades based upon element exposure and age increasing resistance. The connections become corroded for the same reason, or due to vibration. Batteries as they age and are used will have a decrease in performance and output.

                  While no single point may be bad enough to cause a focus of failure, multiple points of degradation can lead to issues with starting from the battery.

                  The relay mod by passes the dozens of connections, removes the shared power aspect with other components, and simplifies the power output to the coils so that your always provided with the best spark possible due to having the strongest battery output possible.

                  Krey
                  93 750 Kat



                  Modified Swingarm, 5.5 GSXR Rear with 180/55 and 520 Chain, 750 to 600 Tail conversion, more to come. Long Term Project build thread http://katriders.com/vb/showthread.php?t=96736

                  "I've done this a thousand times before. What could possibly go wron.... Ooops!"

                  Comment


                  • #10
                    awww i gotcha.. ok ya thats a good mod to do
                    if all else fails......... Get a hammer

                    parting out my 89 Kat 750

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                    • #11
                      Is there some "Pulitzer Prize for Katana Explanations" that can be awarded to Krey???

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                      • #12
                        I would vote for him

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                        • #13
                          did the mod still needs to be tided /zip tied away but initial test are sowing an increase in power to the coils be even better with the new battery i got

                          thanks to all who replied and especially krey

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                          • #14
                            OK - I'm a little OCD with things like this, but ...

                            1) I would connect the second original coil wire you currently have flapping in the breeze with the first (currently connected to the relay) via 2 wires that meet at one connection at the relay.
                            2) Move the earth from under the coil mount. Perhaps on top of the mount or completely separately.
                            3) Mount the relay somewhere - preferably higher and a little away from the heat
                            4) zip tie all wires neatly to the frame and again, away from heat as much as possible. If you have some split wire shield, it would be useful. I also mounted the fuse where I could reach it without having to pull the tank - ie - under the seat.

                            A little extra time spent now should limit potential problems down the track.

                            Here's how mine looked:



                            Uploaded with ImageShack.us

                            PS I assume your vent tube to the air box and cross brace are just removed for access?? And you should route your plugs leads neatly when you put it back together - under the cross brace - you have one that has been badly squashed.
                            Last edited by TRPUT; 05-25-2012, 01:57 AM.

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                            • #15
                              yeah i know lol that lead got caught while i was trying to balence the tank hold the throttle open enough to keep the bike running and adjust the carb sync

                              it is getting routed neater i just threw that image up as i was testing the circuit out lol

                              whats wrong with the negative being under the coil mount ? i get a good strong earth there and my bike doesn't have the two M6 bolt holes between the coils :/ i checked its just a hole drilled in the metal .

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