93 Kat Won't Turn on

[blazindynamo]

I'll give some background hopefully it helps: Winter passed I tried to start bike, it wouldn't. I boosted with my car and got it to go. Battery died again, used my car to boost it again. Rinse and repeat this scenario 3x.

I finally find out, my negative terminal was loose and I had to tighten it. (I also charged the battery at autozone). (Also, the negative post on the battery melted a little, i chucked it to multiple boosts with a car). Battery tested good, so I continued to use it.

Worked great for about 3 weeks and I left the bike on (headlights), engine was off, while I was talking to someone. Bike wouldn't turn on. I tried rolling it down a hill and start it . . . no luck.

I look at the battery and when I hit the start button, the washer between the bolt and negative post was GLOWING Red and the bike sounded like it wanted to turn over (all normal sounds), but not enough juice. Buddy boosts me with his car and it turns over.

As i'm pulling in to my lot, the bike dies. Now when I hit start all I hear is the clicking of the relay(solenoid or w/e), but it doesn't sound like the starter is attempting to engage . . .

So, I've taken the bike completely apart now and checked all the wiring and I can't find one bare wire that could potentially be causing a short . . .

whats the next step? (i'm taking the battery and ignition ignitor to auto zone for testing right now). Don't really know how to diagnose bikes =(

[Wild-Bill]

I'm going to go out on a limb here and say it's your starter. My guess is that you've got some shorted windings in there. Because they're shorted you've effectively got fewer windings so you need more current to turn the motor over. The car battery has enough juice but not the (abused) bike battery.

[blazindynamo]

LMAO, I thought you were making stuff up. "windings". And the abused battery made me lawl hard. I did research and apparently windings are real ... lol.

Umm, I can see the starter is connected to the crank shaft and it looks like it's directly below the spark plugs. Is there an easy way to it or do I have to pull the engine out?

I just got back from 2 shops, one told me bad battery after "testing" it, but I think they just wanted to sell me a battery. 2nd place is charging it, before they can test it. At the very least we know the battery is not holding or receiving a charge.

If they say its a bad battery and I get a new one is it a bad idea to try it out and see if it starts or would that kill my new battery?

Would it still be the starter? could it be the magneto/alternator?

[blazindynamo]

Just got back, battery is officially bad . . potentially b/c of abuse? lol. I'm going to be terribly ****ed off of this is the only issue. =\

[Wild-Bill]

Hopefully it's just the battery but that glowing washer tells me it was drawing a huge amount of current. Quite possible that you've got two problems going on.

[blazindynamo]

=*(

I figured and I don't want to burn out a new battery, but I got a warranty on the battery . . . I just wished I knew what the next logical step was.

I just bought a multimeter, i'm going to try to trace the power flow and check for inconsistencies . . . haven't done this before, but can't be that bad. All I know is start high on the meter and work down.

[Wild-Bill]

Don't worry. I don't think that trying to start the bike a few times will hurt a new battery even if the starter is messed up. (and there's no guarantee it is) With the new battery in place try starting the bike. If you're drawing way too much current then the big cable going to the positive side of the battery will heat up. You'll be able to feel that heat with your hand if that's the case.

[blazindynamo]

Just put in the new battery this morning, red cable doesn't even feel luke warm! Bike turned on like never before. Whenever I idle before the lights on my display would flicker until the bike was warm. My first bike so thought it was normal. Now turns on the first try or two and the lights are solid. Washer didn't glow red either. All sounds were what I'm accustomed to . . . what I don't understand is how did my old battery pass the test 3 weeks ago. Might have been as simple as bad battery from the get.


Side Question: WHile I have the bike apart I bought a new oil filter 3 qts of oil and I was thinking about changing the brake fluid and cleaning the air filter. A) I can't find the air filter in the service manual for my bike B)Any tips or things to look out for when I change the brake fluid and oil filter?

[Wild-Bill]

Awesome news about the battery! Looks like the old battery was trying to turn the starter with low voltage so the current went up to compensate, providing the same wattage. (Volts x Amps = Watts)

As for the rest:
1. pick up another quart of oil. You need 4.0 quarts with a filter change. (4.1 for a 750)
2. To get the air filter out you'll need to remove the tank support bracket and the battery. You can get it out past the battery box but it's tight.
3. World's greatest invention when it comes to flushing brake fluid is a $12 vacuum pump from Wally World. Use it to suck out the dirty fluid (but not all of it) from the reservoir. (Put the tube down to the bottom of the reservoir to suck out the sediment.) Refill the reservoir with clean fluid and then use the pump to suck fluid out through the bleeder until it comes out clear.

[blazindynamo]

Started raining here, further repairs are going to have to wait for now. But, I didn't know that and will grab another quart. I think I'm going to do the air filter next. I had no idea it was that deep man. Definitely will look into the pump too. I'm on my phone so I'll give you an update soon.

[Wild-Bill]

Sorry about this but it looks like inflation has struck. Wally World's website doesn't list anything less than about $60. They may have one for less but...
Autozone has this for $30:

http://www.autozone.com/autozone/accessories/OEM-Liquid-siphoning-vacuum-pump-kit/_/N-25j2?counter=4&filterByKeyWord=bleed&fromString=search&itemIdentifier=70116_0_0_

and HF has this for $25:

http://www.harborfreight.com/brake-bleeder-and-vacuum-pump-kit-92474.html

Might want to call your local Autozone and see if they have a loaner.