Ad Widget

Collapse

Announcement

Collapse
No announcement yet.
X

Fix for fast flashing rear LED lights 98+

Collapse
  • Filter
  • Time
  • Show
Clear All
new posts

  • Fix for fast flashing rear LED lights 98+

    OK this fix will only work if you still have an old school filament bulb in either the front or back signals. In my case, I installed LED rear turn signals when I chopped my shovel which caused the signals to flash really fast. After installing the electronic flasher I was happy that it cured the fast flash problem for now, but testing the unit with LEDs in the front and rear signals yielded a non-working (no flashing) unit. I'm going to order a true electronic flasher unit and install it prior to installing the LED boards in my front lenses. The following write up will remain the same, it will just be a matter of what flasher unit you choose to install.

    What you need:
    A two terminal electronic flasher unit (see note above concerning choosing a flasher)
    2 female .250" blade connectors sized for wire you use for extensions - in my case #18 AWG
    Couple of short pieces of heat shrink tubing
    Soldering iron and solder (if you choose to solder the wire extensions)
    Tiny flat blade screwdriver to remove OEM spade terminal in relay socket
    Wire stripper / terminal crimper
    Some 18 AWG or 20 AWG for wire extensions



    1. Pop your seat off, unbolt the fuse box /relay bracket and remove the fuse box / relay assembly from the bracket. (removal not nessacarily needed but makes life easier) Remove the flasher / sidestand relay



    2. OK, you want the light blue and orange with green trace wires that go into the relay socket.



    Push the wires up into the socket and using a very small flat object or tiny screwdriver release the retaining tab by sliding the screwdriver down the flat side of the terminal in the socket from the top, were the relay would plug in. Bad pic but anyway.



    While holding screwdriver in place, pull the wire out from the back.



    Do both wires.



    3. Wires are a little short, so cut terminals off and splice a couple of short extensions on and install .250 " female terminals on ends. I chose 90* terminal, but straight ones would have worked even better.




    4. Slide terminals on blades of flasher unit. The flasher I picked up was marked for power supply and load (light side), so light blue goes to load terminal and orange/ green goes to power supply. (Which you can't see in pics because both my wire extensions are black - all I had around)


    5. Position flasher unit along side of the side stand relay and zip tie in place.


    A LED flasher would be best to install, then you could run LED signals all around and still have the flash functionality.


    Last edited by Astro4x4; 08-30-2009, 06:25 PM. Reason: Automerged Doublepost
    2000 Katana 600
    2011 Triumph Sprint GT
    __________________________________________
    "If the women don't find you handsome, they should at least find ya handy."
    ____________________________________________

  • #2
    should be a "sticky" for the number of times it comes up
    Good job
    Blood , its in you to give! http://www.blood.ca/

    Comment


    • #3
      Hi your info was very helpful.Just in case someone does this mod as i did i have a 08 katana some relays have a brown wire instead of the orange with green trace wire which takes its place..

      Comment


      • #4
        Originally posted by rexazz2 View Post
        should be a "sticky" for the number of times it comes up
        Good job
        Too old to dream, too young to reason...
        I am fond of my rough edges.
        sigpic

        Comment


        • #5
          I just cut the ends off my flasher terminal wires and soldered them to the flasher unit wires. I don't expect to have to replace it anytime soon.
          Chris

          Originally posted by jetmerritt
          Save up for great gear and dress for the fall before you ride. If you can't afford good quality gear, don't ride. It's like saying you can't afford seat belts for your car. There are just no laws to make gear mandatory.

          Comment


          • #6
            So are you talking about replacing the flasher you used to an LED flasher from this site that you posted http://www.superbrightleds.com/flashers.htm also what flasher would you use from that website+
            Do you know why Santa is so jolly.... Because he knows where all the naughty girls live..

            Comment


            • #7
              Any of the two wire units will work, but I would (going to when I get around to it) buy the motorcycle one with the bullet connects already on it.
              Electronic LED Flasher Relays for Motorcycle have no minimum load-12VDC. Eliminates the need for load resistors, turn signals will flash at normal rate with or with out LED bulbs. Price for each.
              2000 Katana 600
              2011 Triumph Sprint GT
              __________________________________________
              "If the women don't find you handsome, they should at least find ya handy."
              ____________________________________________

              Comment


              • #8
                Hmm, all good stuff. I don't use my indicators much unless I'm in unfamiliar territory with friends but they don't work and if I do try, they pop a fuse. Switch seems fine so I'll look at that. Need an operable flasher for our ministry of transport test next year! Front indicators are coming off cos they are munting really. Got alternative plans for them!
                sigpic

                Comment


                • #9
                  I believe that the issue is the lack of resistance in the LED compared to a light bulb. The last time I build something with an LED I had to put a resistor in series to control the current. I think that the flasher works on some sort of RC time curve, and if R is too low, it will shorten the flash time. Kinda lounging in my robe commando style watching the news, so I am not going to dig in the books tonight, But I will start a thread soon on installing some chinese (dangit) led F&R turn lights on my 94.

                  Comment


                  • #10
                    As stated..it's much easier to simply install a small resistor inline with the individual lights...thats what I did when I took out my stalk rear lights and added LED strips following the curve of the bee tail.
                    sigpic

                    Comment


                    • #11
                      How did you determine what Ohm value to use? In my case, I do not have device schematic setc.

                      Comment


                      • #12
                        resistors are for sale at Radio shack for like a dime a piece..buy different resistances and see which is best...just don't go too high 5K+ cause your wires will heat up due to too much draw...I'd say get a 50..100...200...500..1K..should find a good medium between those.

                        Ok..using this calculator I found online (source) with a 12v source and adding the maximum voltage drop most LEDS incur 2v...and most require a 20-30mA current across 5 LEDS your looking at about a 100 OHM resistor.

                        In response...and to educate for the future..older style (non-electronic) flashers use a strip of metal that heats up and sags creating contact...when the current flows due to the contact it disperses the heat and cool rapidly regaining its previous rigid form...which in turn cuts the current...which in turn heats it up again...

                        So being the LED's use less current theres less resistance meaning more amps so it heats up faster....hence the faster flash.

                        Oh..and in case the question comes up..it doesn't matter which side you put the resistor on before or after the lights..it will still serve its purpose.
                        Last edited by monolith; 10-07-2012, 08:01 PM.
                        sigpic

                        Comment


                        • #13
                          Originally posted by monolith View Post
                          resistors are for sale at Radio shack for like a dime a piece..buy different resistances and see which is best...just don't go too high 5K+ cause your wires will heat up due to too much draw...I'd say get a 50..100...200...500..1K..should find a good medium between those.
                          First of all the resistors you're talking about are the current-limiting resistors that LEDs need in series to operate on a 12v system, they are what causes the fast-flash syndrome, not remedy it. These resistors are only needed for raw LEDs when building a custom array, not for auto or motorcycle LED replacement bulbs, they already have the resistors built in. Also the higher the resistance value the less current and therefore less wire heat. The resistors needed to cure the fast flash are called load-equilizer or shunt resistors. They connect from the turn-signal hot wire to ground paralleling the LED . These are in the range of 8 to 15 ohm and generally have a 10 watt or more rating because they get hot & should be mounted away from other wires.

                          Originally posted by monolith View Post
                          In response...and to educate for the future..older style (non-electronic) flashers use a strip of metal that heats up and sags creating contact...when the current flows due to the contact it disperses the heat and cool rapidly regaining its previous rigid form...which in turn cuts the current...which in turn heats it up again...
                          So being the LED's use less current theres less resistance meaning more amps so it heats up faster....hence the faster flash.
                          Oh..and in case the question comes up..it doesn't matter which side you put the resistor on before or after the lights..it will still serve its purpose.
                          You're real close on the flasher theory. The metal strip is made of 2 dissimilar metals that expand differently when they heat. The contacts are closed when cold and when current flows through those contacts and the bi-metal strip it heats up, it bends opening the contacts and since no more current flow the strip cools, connects and starts the process again.
                          Since LEDs use less current because they have more resistance, the strip doesn't heat up and bend as much cooling much faster and doing the process faster.

                          Comment

                          Working...
                          X