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there are four main problems with electrical.
short- this is what alot of people use as a general term for all problems. but it is an unwanted path to ground BEFORE the load. these will blow the fuse.
what you want to do is replace the fuse with a substitution device. a good one that i use is a old blinker that is still working that has been broken off. you may need to crimp new ends on it so that it will fit into the fuse panel. what this does is it provides the circuit with a load to prevent damage to the circuit while you are troubleshooting it. use the wiring diagram to make a list of the loads that are protected by that fuse. you want to unplug the loads one at a time until the light goes out or dim. then you just search the load and replace or fix the wires.
opens- an open is a break in the wire. this is sometimes inside the insulation and can not be seen. use voltage drop to find and isolate.
grounds- a ground is a condition that occurs when there is an unwanted path to gound AFTER the load. this happens usually when your horn will not shut off for example.
high or unwanted resistance- this is usually what the problem is. corrosion is usually the porblem here.
90% of the problems with electrical are bad connections or corrosion.
now there are four parts to a circuit.
load- this is what you are operating like a blinker or headlight.
path- these are the wires
switch- this is what operates the load. like your blinker swith or headlight switch.
power source- this is your battery.
now to the voltage drop test. you will need a volt meter and a piece of safety wire about 3 or 4 inches long. the meter will need to be set to volts d.c. the sign for this is a straight line with three or four dots( small dotted line) right below it.
i use clips on the end of my leads they make it easier. you want to take your black lead(negative) and hook it up to your battery. take your red lead(positive) and you want to clip your piece of safety wire to it.
the peice of safety wire is used because you will be back probing and do not want to do any damage to the connectors.
you want to start at your load. and either work forwards or backwards from there.
up to your load you will have source voltage which is your battery voltage which should be right about 12.5 volts. after your load you will have voltage drop. which should be no higher then .5 volts
so if you have source voltage after the load that means that the problem is on the gound side of the circuit. if you are getting voltage drop before the load it means the problem is on the power side of load. follow the path until your readings change. that is where your problems lie.
i will post some pics up on here saturday when i figure out how to do it.....
short- this is what alot of people use as a general term for all problems. but it is an unwanted path to ground BEFORE the load. these will blow the fuse.
what you want to do is replace the fuse with a substitution device. a good one that i use is a old blinker that is still working that has been broken off. you may need to crimp new ends on it so that it will fit into the fuse panel. what this does is it provides the circuit with a load to prevent damage to the circuit while you are troubleshooting it. use the wiring diagram to make a list of the loads that are protected by that fuse. you want to unplug the loads one at a time until the light goes out or dim. then you just search the load and replace or fix the wires.
opens- an open is a break in the wire. this is sometimes inside the insulation and can not be seen. use voltage drop to find and isolate.
grounds- a ground is a condition that occurs when there is an unwanted path to gound AFTER the load. this happens usually when your horn will not shut off for example.
high or unwanted resistance- this is usually what the problem is. corrosion is usually the porblem here.
90% of the problems with electrical are bad connections or corrosion.
now there are four parts to a circuit.
load- this is what you are operating like a blinker or headlight.
path- these are the wires
switch- this is what operates the load. like your blinker swith or headlight switch.
power source- this is your battery.
now to the voltage drop test. you will need a volt meter and a piece of safety wire about 3 or 4 inches long. the meter will need to be set to volts d.c. the sign for this is a straight line with three or four dots( small dotted line) right below it.
i use clips on the end of my leads they make it easier. you want to take your black lead(negative) and hook it up to your battery. take your red lead(positive) and you want to clip your piece of safety wire to it.
the peice of safety wire is used because you will be back probing and do not want to do any damage to the connectors.
you want to start at your load. and either work forwards or backwards from there.
up to your load you will have source voltage which is your battery voltage which should be right about 12.5 volts. after your load you will have voltage drop. which should be no higher then .5 volts
so if you have source voltage after the load that means that the problem is on the gound side of the circuit. if you are getting voltage drop before the load it means the problem is on the power side of load. follow the path until your readings change. that is where your problems lie.
i will post some pics up on here saturday when i figure out how to do it.....
your suzuki qualified tech
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