Ad Widget

Collapse

Announcement

Collapse
No announcement yet.
X

If replacing cams do you need to pull cam chain tensioner?

Collapse
  • Filter
  • Time
  • Show
Clear All
new posts

  • If replacing cams do you need to pull cam chain tensioner?

    If replacing cams do you need to pull cam chain tensioner? I have my supposed GSXR 1100 cams to put in my 750 kat, and I am wondering if I need to remove the cam chain tensioner when pulling the cams off. I think, I have too pull the tensioner out, but If anyone has done anything like this I would like to know.
    Is Effingham a swear word?

  • #2
    If you don't have a shop manual get one. I believe one of the steps is to take tension off the cam chain first then pull the tensioner. Again you need a shop manual for that mod to help you get the timing set right.

    Comment


    • #3
      I would suggest pulling it out just to make sure it gets cleaned and lubed up so it will work properly for you. Just my .02 though.

      Greg

      COURAGE -

      Freedom is the sure possession of those alone
      who have the courage to defend it.

      First Sergeant(Ret) - US Army - 21 years

      Comment


      • #4
        I got a shop manual and it does not explicity say to do it. But, if you let the pressure off the chain isnt the tensioner going to push out and extend out fully?
        Is Effingham a swear word?

        Comment


        • #5
          Check the chain for service limits. Take the tensioner out. Clean it. Replace the spring if it's over 6 years old, if you suspect it's weak, or if you've found substancial play into the chain. Then start working on the chain and cams. Reinstall the tensioner at the end. If you replace the chain, replace the tensioner spring while you're at it (to be on the safe side). And by all means, get your hands on the factory manual if you're doing the cams! I've seen it in CD format on eBay for $25 or under, although I prefer my paper version.

          Cheers
          =-= The CyberPoet
          Remember The CyberPoet

          Comment


          • #6
            Originally posted by The CyberPoet
            Check the chain for service limits. Take the tensioner out. Clean it. Replace the spring if it's over 6 years old, if you suspect it's weak, or if you've found substancial play into the chain. Then start working on the chain and cams. Reinstall the tensioner at the end. If you replace the chain, replace the tensioner spring while you're at it (to be on the safe side). And by all means, get your hands on the factory manual if you're doing the cams! I've seen it in CD format on eBay for $25 or under, although I prefer my paper version.

            Cheers
            =-= The CyberPoet
            i like the cd-rom version ( an added bonus of where i work, 2 high speed HP laserjet duplexing printers )

            tim

            Comment


            • #7
              I have a Haynes, which I bought about 1 week ago. I have the cams out now and have to find some non-destructive way to remove cam sprockets, off cams. This should be strait forward.

              The other thing is that I am installing an Ivans jet kit, but the screws on the back side are stripped and I need to find a way to get them off the carbs. I have tried penetrating oil and vise grips. Next i will look at my Dad's tapping set.???
              Is Effingham a swear word?

              Comment


              • #8
                Originally posted by illinoiskat
                The other thing is that I am installing an Ivans jet kit, but the screws on the back side are stripped and I need to find a way to get them off the carbs. I have tried penetrating oil and vise grips. Next i will look at my Dad's tapping set.???
                When we did Ivan's kit on Malloc's carbs, I found the previous owner had used gorilla force on some of the screws for the float bowl covers as well. Vice grips did the trick after spraying down the screws with some carb cleaner (to clean off any oil and to chill them, thus shrinking them minorly). Got replacements at the local mom & pop Ace Hardware that were perfectly matched, so we weren't worried about demolishing them with the vice-grips as long as they came out... the back-up plan was to take the dremel and cut a wide slot for a flathead if bad came to worse. My advice: bigger vice-grips set tighter.

                Cheers
                =-= The CyberPoet
                Remember The CyberPoet

                Comment


                • #9
                  Once once you get them out replace them like CP said. I replaced mine with stainless steel allen head bolts.

                  Comment


                  • #10
                    They have lock tight on them, when I pull them out. And some of the screws were deformed, stripped, when they put them in. Im calmer now, but I was angry about some one being dumb enough to strip screws going into the carbs at OEM level. I will try the brake cleaner method, maybe the quick evaporation will shrink the screw enough. Otherwise, I am going to go the dremel path for the 5 messed up screws left. I tried putting them in hot water to get the assembly to expand and that helped on some. Now I have the carbs pulled apart drying over night. The spot is too tight to turn the vise grips more than 70 degrees. Its just a pita. Thanks for your help.
                    Is Effingham a swear word?

                    Comment


                    • #11
                      Update,
                      I took my carbs to Lee auto parts. They have a machinest on site and for 25 dollars he got the 5 stripped screws out. The orginal question of taking the cam tensioner out, I took it out since I pulled cams out. hehe some time whens its warm up again ill pull off the head and put new cams in, and finally adjust them.
                      Is Effingham a swear word?

                      Comment


                      • #12
                        Sorry, to hijack the thread, but if anyone here has experience degreeing cams, can you PM me if you don't mind me asking a couple questions? I'm trying to swap in some reground cams into an engine but I could use a few pointers......

                        Comment


                        • #13


                          Sorry, just had been wanting to use that little guy for a while.
                          Kan-O-Gixxer!
                          -89 Gixxer 1100 Engine
                          -Stage 3 Jet Kit / KNN Pod Filters
                          -Ohlins Susupension
                          -Various Other Mods

                          Comment


                          • #14
                            Originally posted by alriclam
                            Sorry, to hijack the thread, but if anyone here has experience degreeing cams, can you PM me if you don't mind me asking a couple questions? I'm trying to swap in some reground cams into an engine but I could use a few pointers......

                            Umm what do you mean by degreeing ? You could alway use an ingintion advancer. But if that is not what you want, get adjustable cam shaft sprockets. That way you leave the cam in and you "just" adjust the cam shaft sprocket and rotate the cam. There is a difference in the cam chain and cam sprockets from the early GSXR and the 98 + Kats. So, if you can only find an early adjustable sprocket. You might have to change out the cam shaft sprocket on the engine crank. If that can be done. If you can take the cam sprocket off the crank shaft, you will need to split the cases. To get a chain and sprocket set of an older GSXR on the kat. But your bike might be an early kat and cam sprockets and cam chain might be the same as an early GSXR. I know I have seen adjustable cam chain sprockets for early GSXRs.
                            Is Effingham a swear word?

                            Comment


                            • #15
                              Yeah, I may do some tuning of the Kat engine with some different cams next year, since at school we've got some software that will determine optimal cam shapes for the given application and engine, and I've got access to an engine dyno to test them on. But for now, we're trying to take some new cams we ordered from http://www.webcamshafts.com/ and get them in an R6 engine. The cams have adjustable sprockets, and no markings, so we need to degree them in the overlap and timing we want. For all of us on that project this is our first time putting in cams, so I'm just looking for some pointers.

                              Once again, sorry to hijack!

                              Comment

                              Working...
                              X