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throttle cable connection

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  • throttle cable connection

    anyone else have a hard time connecting the throttle cable at the carburators? it took me 15 minutes to remove the cable, and 45 minutes trying to put it back on. i STILL haven't been able to get it back right. any available tips for doing this?


    "If you ain't first, you're last..." - Ricky Bobby
    "Your stuck on an anger bridge man, you gotta cross the anger bridge and come back to the friendship shore..." - Magic Man

  • #2
    FINALLY got the cable connected, do i need a new one?

    all it took was a plastic clamp to hold the throttle open (more slack), and two sets of needle nose pliers, and voila'. took about a min and half that way, go figure. anywho, after i got the throttle cable connected, i noticed the butterfly valves on the carbs don't close all the way. i have the adjusting nut adjusted to the very tip top at the handlebars (nut is as close to the handlebars as possible), but there's still about .25-.50 inch room before it hits the idle screw on the carbs. the butterfly valves are still slightly open with the cable connected. how do i fix this problem? i don't know anymore tricks to give me more slack from the cable so they shut all the way...


    "If you ain't first, you're last..." - Ricky Bobby
    "Your stuck on an anger bridge man, you gotta cross the anger bridge and come back to the friendship shore..." - Magic Man

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    • #3
      I think Cyber had something about this posted a while back. I can't remember the method he had used, but I am sure he will be able to assist once he sess the thread.
      Kan-O-Gixxer!
      -89 Gixxer 1100 Engine
      -Stage 3 Jet Kit / KNN Pod Filters
      -Ohlins Susupension
      -Various Other Mods

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      • #4
        i think i know what it is, very careless of me. i think i need to pull the choke back, i didn't even think about that last night. i'm at work now, but i'm going to check that when i get home. if the choke is engaged, then the valves would be slightly open still, correct? it was 25 degrees outside last night, i was cold and tired, and reaking of gasoline. i'll post the results later so this thread can be used in search if someone else runs across the same careless mistake...


        "If you ain't first, you're last..." - Ricky Bobby
        "Your stuck on an anger bridge man, you gotta cross the anger bridge and come back to the friendship shore..." - Magic Man

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        • #5
          Originally posted by takirb
          if the choke is engaged, then the valves would be slightly open still, correct?
          Nope . I don't really remember how the things are routed , as it's been a while since I had to take my carbs off the bike . I'd say just try again . I used a couple of screwdrivers to put mine back on , and it was a pain as anyone will tell you .
          I am a fluffy lil cuddly lovable bunny , dammit !



          Katrider's rally 2011 - md86

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          • #6
            hmm... just had someone take a look at it for me, and the choke's not engaged. i'm not sure what the problem could be. it shouldn't be a cable routing problem, as i've pulled the carbs closer to the handlebars (getting more slack from the cable) and they still didn't close all the way. they closed fine before i connected the cable, so i know it's not the carbs. anyone have a pic of the cable routing i can use for reference? i have the haynes manual, but it doesn't show an entire pic of the cable's route...


            "If you ain't first, you're last..." - Ricky Bobby
            "Your stuck on an anger bridge man, you gotta cross the anger bridge and come back to the friendship shore..." - Magic Man

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            • #7
              The easiest way I've found:

              Disconnect the cables at the throttle control and let them hang. Take all the slack up for the carb end (to give you as much to play with at the carb end as possible). Get a set of 6" to 8" forceps (medical clamp), use it to hold the end of the cable about 1/8" from the lead weight on the end. Thread it into the carb, then rotate the butterflies open all the way and do the other side. Release the butterflies. Connect the throttle sheath holders above the carbs and tighten down. Now reinstall at the throttle control (handlebars) and adjust. It takes me about 30 - 45 seconds to thread each one at the carbs that way. Forceps are available cheaply at most flea markets, via ebay and if I recall correctly, via harbor freight as well.

              Cheers
              =-= The CyberPoet
              Remember The CyberPoet

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              • #8
                AHA! found out what the problem was, kinda. it was bound up somehow, somewhere. that's why it took me so long to get the cable back on, i had almost half the regular length of slack left to work with and thought that was normal length. i thought i was going to have to replace the cable, and when i started unscrewing the cover off the handlebars, the rest of the cable popped out! the carbs are now installed and ready to go, i'm just waiting to change the gasoline soaked oil and replace the fuel petcock. i already have a brand new set of NGK plugs ready to install as well, but i want to get it running right first so i don't risk fouling a new set of plugs... thanks for everyone's help, it's cutting down on labor charges the info you learn from DIY jobs is priceless...


                "If you ain't first, you're last..." - Ricky Bobby
                "Your stuck on an anger bridge man, you gotta cross the anger bridge and come back to the friendship shore..." - Magic Man

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                • #9
                  my throttle cable was bound up as well when I was working with my choke awhile back. it's more common than u might think.

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                  • #10
                    Originally posted by Need4Speed750
                    my throttle cable was bound up as well when I was working with my choke awhile back. it's more common than u might think.
                    You have to be sure to route the cables down the center of the tank when they exit forward from the carbs (including the choke cable), otherwise they can get pinned between the tank and the cross-over bar above the valve covers. This becomes a problem over time as the tank mashes the sheath with vibrations (caused my choke cable to fray within the sheath at that point -- lesson learned the hard way).

                    Cheers
                    =-= The CyberPoet
                    Remember The CyberPoet

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