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Carbs Leaking... Advice Appreciated.

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  • #46
    Don't over think it.

    Set the carbs upright, and do the test. Don't worry about lean angle. I could go into details on many reasons why, but I'm too lazy to type that all out atm. I'll just throw out some words... G-forces, Sag, vacuum petcock....

    Krey
    93 750 Kat



    Modified Swingarm, 5.5 GSXR Rear with 180/55 and 520 Chain, 750 to 600 Tail conversion, more to come. Long Term Project build thread http://katriders.com/vb/showthread.php?t=96736

    "I've done this a thousand times before. What could possibly go wron.... Ooops!"

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    • #47
      Originally posted by Kreylyn View Post
      Don't over think it.

      Set the carbs upright, and do the test. Don't worry about lean angle. I could go into details on many reasons why, but I'm too lazy to type that all out atm. I'll just throw out some words... G-forces, Sag, vacuum petcock....

      Krey
      Thanks Krey, those words make some sense -
      So I finished Leakdown test no. 3, this time for 48 hours, slightly less tipped, and I flipped my hoses around so the tighter, unused end (haha) was on the fuel tees. For the first time, there was still fuel in the lines after the test - never mind the puddle, that was from messing with the fuel lines which are still unclamped:



      There is a tiny tiny bit of fuel residue on the mouths of carbs 2 and 3. #2 could be a leaky float needle, as I didnt replace it, but it didnt leak there during the first leakdown test. #3 should not be leaking, as I replaced that float needle.


      (3 and 2, left to right)

      1. Thoughts? Is this tiny amount of leakage... okay, or normal? If not... I suppose I can redo the test perfectly upright and see if that changes anything; if not, I guess I replace #2 float needle and.... freak out about #3.

      2. Are the fuel tee clamps simple, thin spring clamps? Thats my best guess based on the fiche drawing - I'd prefer to use generic ones I can find anywhere if possible. Tried 1/2" standard hose clamps and they just make it leak more.

      EDIT: Re-running the test with the carbs upright. We'll see what happens.
      Last edited by Heeltoeclutch; 09-02-2017, 11:28 PM.

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      • #48
        Ok, new update!

        Ran the leakdown test with the carbs upright, just sitting on the bowl bottoms. No leakage from the engine-side mouths this time! However, it looks like there's a small leak from the pilot air jets (??) on 2 and mayybe 4? Some green moistness on the lefthand little holes:

        Carb 2:


        Carb 4: (click for larger pic, hard to see - a little bit of green in that hole)


        I honestly do not know what this means - possibly float heights too high? Will this even matter as they are tipped slightly forward?

        Input appreciated. Hoping we are getting to the final stretch!
        Last edited by Heeltoeclutch; 09-08-2017, 12:50 AM.

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        • #49
          Originally posted by Heeltoeclutch View Post
          Ok, new update!

          Ran the leakdown test with the carbs upright, just sitting on the bowl bottoms. No leakage from the engine-side mouths this time! However, it looks like there's a small leak from the pilot air jets (??) on 2 and mayybe 4? Some green moistness on the lefthand little holes:

          Carb 2:


          Carb 4: (click for larger pic, hard to see - a little bit of green in that hole)


          I honestly do not know what this means - possibly float heights too high? Will this even matter as they are tipped slightly forward?

          Input appreciated. Hoping we are getting to the final stretch!
          Light moistness, but any puddles or drips into the pan?

          If no drips... and the petcock works, I think maybe it's time to move on and put those on the bike.

          Krey
          93 750 Kat



          Modified Swingarm, 5.5 GSXR Rear with 180/55 and 520 Chain, 750 to 600 Tail conversion, more to come. Long Term Project build thread http://katriders.com/vb/showthread.php?t=96736

          "I've done this a thousand times before. What could possibly go wron.... Ooops!"

          Comment


          • #50
            Originally posted by Kreylyn View Post
            Light moistness, but any puddles or drips into the pan?

            If no drips... and the petcock works, I think maybe it's time to move on and put those on the bike.

            Krey
            To be honest, I am not sure - I suspected this little mark on the pan on the left side of this picture to be a drip, but from inspecting the carbs I could not determine any residue on the bowls where it would've had to have dripped down:



            I'm going back to the house today and will check again. When I checked them yesterday it had been 3 days since starting the test and the fuel in the lines had barely moved - I finally got some clamps for them. This makes me think we might be okay...?

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            • #51
              Originally posted by Heeltoeclutch View Post
              To be honest, I am not sure - I suspected this little mark on the pan on the left side of this picture to be a drip, but from inspecting the carbs I could not determine any residue on the bowls where it would've had to have dripped down:



              I'm going back to the house today and will check again. When I checked them yesterday it had been 3 days since starting the test and the fuel in the lines had barely moved - I finally got some clamps for them. This makes me think we might be okay...?
              I would think so. If no pools or puddles, fuel isn't flowing through... I think you would be good.

              Krey
              93 750 Kat



              Modified Swingarm, 5.5 GSXR Rear with 180/55 and 520 Chain, 750 to 600 Tail conversion, more to come. Long Term Project build thread http://katriders.com/vb/showthread.php?t=96736

              "I've done this a thousand times before. What could possibly go wron.... Ooops!"

              Comment


              • #52
                Originally posted by Kreylyn View Post
                I would think so. If no pools or puddles, fuel isn't flowing through... I think you would be good.

                Krey
                Welp just confirmed. It is day 4 and no pools or puddles. Still fuel in the lines, although it has dropped some. Im guessing some has evaporated.

                I can hardly believe we are at the end of this saga. Thank you so much everyone for your help, especially you Krey! This has been a fantastic learning experience. In the next couple days I will put them on the bike, and see if it will run for the first time in 2 years!

                BEFORE STARTING THE BIKE - I have read it is good to turn the engine over manually by turning the rear wheel while in gear to coat the parts in oil. I suppose I can try this before torquing the new plugs down.
                Last edited by Heeltoeclutch; 09-09-2017, 04:41 PM.

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                • #53
                  You can either do that, or turn the motor over like you're doing a cable adjustment. Remove the front brake ( right) side engine cover, and turn the timing rotor with a big wrench that goes over the outside of the nut (not an Allen wrenches in the inside of it). If it's in neutral, it will turn the engine easily. It has to be in a certain direction (is clockwise vs non clockwise) and I do not remember which it is, but it is easy to do. Just 5 (maybe 6?) bolts to remove the cover.
                  1998 Katana 750
                  1992 Katana 1100
                  2006 Ninja 250

                  2006 Katana 600 RIP - 130k miles

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                  • #54
                    Originally posted by shpielers View Post
                    You can either do that, or turn the motor over like you're doing a cable adjustment. Remove the front brake ( right) side engine cover, and turn the timing rotor with a big wrench that goes over the outside of the nut (not an Allen wrenches in the inside of it). If it's in neutral, it will turn the engine easily. It has to be in a certain direction (is clockwise vs non clockwise) and I do not remember which it is, but it is easy to do. Just 5 (maybe 6?) bolts to remove the cover.
                    Thanks shpielers - should I expect a torrent of oil to come out if doing this? Never removed an engine cover.

                    Edit: I am looking at the pictures for doing a clutch adjustment and it looks like a tiny little cover, not the large engine cover I am thinking of... (I am not with the bike currently)
                    Last edited by Heeltoeclutch; 09-10-2017, 01:22 AM.

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                    • #55
                      No gushing oil for this, maybe 2 or 3 drops.

                      Shit, NOT a cable adjustment, a VALVE adjustment. My bad. Said the complete wrong thing. Auto correct suspected as it just made that change again

                      Right side (sitting on it) engine cover, little guy about the size of your hand. Not the one with the oil site glass.
                      1998 Katana 750
                      1992 Katana 1100
                      2006 Ninja 250

                      2006 Katana 600 RIP - 130k miles

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