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Is this right?

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  • Is this right?

    https://youtu.be/wxhbejYiVR4
    1997 600 Katana
    I bought this bike 2 days ago not running, I put in a used wiring harness and here we are.
    I have no clue what it is supposed to run like. The slide valves seem wonky to me, but like I said, I have no clue.
    Thanks in advance for any advice.

  • #2
    Run it with the air box on it, bet it runs better.
    "I'm sorry, I didn't mean to upset you when I called you stupid. I thought you already knew..."
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    • #3
      Originally posted by 92xjunker View Post
      Run it with the air box on it, bet it runs better.
      It doesn't.
      Are the slides functioning as they should? Shaking like that?

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      • #4
        Have the carbs been synced?

        The slides are reacting to the engine vacuum, thats why you see the shutter/stutter. It's not running right, so it's not pulling vacuum steady. I don't think it's them that is the problem.

        I'd start with a full carb disassembly and cleaning on a new to you bike, that was not running prior. That means gas has been sitting and leaving deposits inside, so it's not going to run right now even with electrical fixed.

        Clean the carbs, sync them, put the air box on, and then see what's up.

        Krey
        93 750 Kat



        Modified Swingarm, 5.5 GSXR Rear with 180/55 and 520 Chain, 750 to 600 Tail conversion, more to come. Long Term Project build thread http://katriders.com/vb/showthread.php?t=96736

        "I've done this a thousand times before. What could possibly go wron.... Ooops!"

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        • #5
          Originally posted by Kreylyn View Post
          Have the carbs been synced?

          The slides are reacting to the engine vacuum, thats why you see the shutter/stutter. It's not running right, so it's not pulling vacuum steady. I don't think it's them that is the problem.

          I'd start with a full carb disassembly and cleaning on a new to you bike, that was not running prior. That means gas has been sitting and leaving deposits inside, so it's not going to run right now even with electrical fixed.

          Clean the carbs, sync them, put the air box on, and then see what's up.

          Krey
          I did this today, carbs looked very clean too. runs The same. I cannot get it to idle above 900-1k. Idle adjustment makes it want to die if it's too high. Slightest movement of the throttle will kill the engine when cold. After its warm, it will rev up, but falls on its face when you first open the throttle, like there is a delay.
          Maybe I am missing a few small vacuum leaks?
          Also, I am not beyond taking the carbs apart again, I am at a head scratching moment, so I am open to any suggestions.

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          • #6
            Did you remove the A/F screws when you cleaned the carbs? Idle to 3000 rpm is off the A/F mixture. At 3000 rpm the needle/ main jet starts to come into play.
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            • #7
              I'm not trying to sound like an asshole, but if you cleaned the carbs in 1 day, no you didn't.

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              • #8
                Originally posted by arsenic View Post
                I'm not trying to sound like an asshole, but if you cleaned the carbs in 1 day, no you didn't.
                Jesus, I couldn't imagine it taking more then the 6 hours I spent on it?
                Did I miss something?

                Originally posted by 92xjunker View Post
                Did you remove the A/F screws when you cleaned the carbs? Idle to 3000 rpm is off the A/F mixture. At 3000 rpm the needle/ main jet starts to come into play.
                Screws came out, cleaned, put back in, bottom out, 1 1/2 turns back.
                (This is how I set up carbs in outboard boat engines.)
                Sound technique or way off?
                Last edited by GasDonkey; 04-11-2017, 09:46 PM. Reason: Automerged Doublepost

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                • #9
                  Dude....it's not a marine engine... Yeah.....you did. The stripped bodies need to soak in carb dip for 24 hrs each. Canned carb spray won't cut it. It's the imbedded passages that get gunned up, soaking is the only most reliable way of getting those clean. Follow carbs 102 and set the A/F screws too 2.5
                  "I'm sorry, I didn't mean to upset you when I called you stupid. I thought you already knew..."
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                  • #10
                    Originally posted by 92xjunker View Post
                    Dude....it's not a marine engine... Yeah.....you did. The stripped bodies need to soak in carb dip for 24 hrs each. Canned carb spray won't cut it. It's the imbedded passages that get gunned up, soaking is the only most reliable way of getting those clean. Follow carbs 102 and set the A/F screws too 2.5

                    Marine engine or not, carb tuning is essentially the same thing regardless of the vehicle it propels. But good one lol.

                    So I missed soaking them and 1 turn out on mix screws?

                    Will report back in 48 hrs so you guys will know I let them soak for a full day .

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