Factory Pro Kit + Delkivic Slip on

[Xerrith]

So I got my jet kit in the mail Friday. I read the instructions, but still had a few questions before doing the install. I've never done a jet kit install.


Do I need any of the hardware from the stock needle?


Is the 2nd clip down on the needle good for having a slip on? I have the stock air filter and stock airbox.


I'm assuming I'm replacing the main jets with what came in the box. Do you use the same jet size for all 4 carbs?


Thanks!

[92xjunker]

The kit comes with full instructions, start with the stock jets and tune from there. Needles will be replaced. That is where the actual change is.

[Xerrith]

I appreciate the response Junker, but that doesn't answer my question at all (I did read the instructions, had they answered my 3 questions I wouldn't have asked strangers for help.)


I'm not such a noob to think that I won't use the new needles in the jet kit. My questions was do I need any of the hardware from the OLD needles to put on the NEW needles? Or are the new needles good to go (other than putting the eclip where it needs to be.)?


I read the 2nd clip down was good, I was going to go with that unless someone on here suggested otherwise. Was just looking for suggestions , since this is a forum about katanas. There's a good chance someone else has had a slip on with a stock filter/airbox on here with this exact kit.


"I'm assuming I'm replacing the main jets with what came in the box. Do you use the same jet size for all 4 carbs?"


I asked this question because my kit came with what looks like 6 jets. Obviously we have 4 carbs, so I didn't know if you put all 4 of the same size in or not? I know how the jets work, and what they do. But this is my first time installing a jet kit, so the question was asked, since the instructions didn't say.

You said to start with the stock jets? You don't use any that came with the kit?

This could be common sense, and probably is. The less I have to pull off the carbs the better.

[92xjunker]

The new needle is the only thing being changed till tuning is done. you'll still need the shims and spring retainers, that is all. As far as the e-clip, middle is a good starting point. Yes change all 4 jets at the same time if needed. You start with stock and go from there. If all you have is a slipon with the OEM header you may not need the larger jets. Only thru tuning will anybody know what jets you need.

[Xerrith]

Man, thanks Junker. Yes all the bike has is the slip on. Everything else is stock. The only time I have had the bike running good enough to really rev it up was the 1st time I dipped them, and I didn't sync the carbs. I heard a pop come out the exhaust twice, only on higher revs both times. It wasn't a series of pops, just one louder one. My Yamaha Vstar makes a series of smaller pops, has cobra pipes, and I believe the PO didn't jet it either.

[Xerrith]

Okay hopefully this is the last question I have.

When I go to sync the carbs do I use the idle adjustment cable to bring the RPMs up to 1800? I ordered the motion pro.

[92xjunker]

Yes and you'll have to readjust the idle as you sync, the idle will change during the sync, more so if the bench sync was way off.

[Xerrith]

So when you start the bike you make the idle set to 1800 via the idle adjustment cable?

When you have them all synced do you just back down the idle adjuster? Won't that throw them out of sync again since the cable adjusts the sync on carb 3? What is normal operating RPMS supposed to be when your riding?

[92xjunker]

When your done, yes set the idle to 1100 rpm. No sync has nothing to due with the idle screw.sync will balance the carbs together.

[Xerrith]

Gotcha. I thought I read somewhere that the screw changed the sync for carb 3. I've been reading a lot about these bikes in the past couple of months. Thanks again Junker. I'll follow up with an update after I get the carbs on and sync'd. Crossing my fingers everything works like it should!

[Kreylyn]

Gotcha. I thought I read somewhere that the screw changed the sync for carb 3. I've been reading a lot about these bikes in the past couple of months. Thanks again Junker. I'll follow up with an update after I get the carbs on and sync'd. Crossing my fingers everything works like it should!

The middle sync screw will sync banks 1-2 and 3-4. Sync screws adjust the butterfly positions relative to each other. Sync screws are located on the top side of the 3 sync points where levers connect the butterflies into a single assembly.

The throttle cable is attached to this assembled at the top, also near where the middle sync screw is.

On the very bottom the Idle screw is located. It's just a stop set screw, for the throttle plates. It stops the over all assembly. The more open the butterflies, the higher the rpm...

Krey

[Xerrith]

Thanks Krey. Since I have ordered the 4 column sync tool do I have to sync 1 and 2 first, then 3,4, then 2, and 3? Or is that only for 2 column setups?

I was thinking that you turn all the sync screws until the levels on the tool were all pretty close to each other. Then once you have it synced you use the idle cable to bring the idle back to normal levels.

[Kreylyn]

Thanks Krey. Since I have ordered the 4 column sync tool do I have to sync 1 and 2 first, then 3,4, then 2, and 3? Or is that only for 2 column setups?

I was thinking that you turn all the sync screws until the levels on the tool were all pretty close to each other. Then once you have it synced you use the idle cable to bring the idle back to normal levels.

You will probably find it easier to sync each bank first... doesn't really matter which. Then sync the pairs together.

You will want to keep the rpm at 1800... so adjust the rpm as you go, it will change (both up and down) as you change the sync.

Krey

[Xerrith]

So syncing the pairs together would be adjusting the middle sync screw correct?

Also to calibrate the Motion pro tool would you use carb # 3 to do that?

[Xerrith]

Also are those nylon pieces that were on the stock needles supposed to be on the factory pro needles? I put both the nylon piece and the metal washer from the stock needle on the factory pro needles. They're not wanting to come down as easy as the stock ones did.

When I put the nylon pieces on they were pretty loose because the factory needle is slimmer than stock.