Will this work for rebuilding the carbs?

[Lostidentity]

Hi,

I've read over Carbs 101/102 and have the service manual along with a boatload of carb cleaner. I also have 4 of these carb kits that a got out of a parts unlimited manual https://www.amazon.com/Supply-Econom.../dp/B001KNYVYC.

Unfortunately one of the reviews claims that these are not drop in replacements and the parts suck. Should I pick up a different rebuild kit or just not worry about this?

Here is a picture of one of the kits

http://imgur.com/a/Ecmcj

After the carb rebuild I was going to do a valve adjustment and then bring the bike in to get the carbs vacuum synced.

[92xjunker]

K&L has good carb kits. No issues here with K&L kits.

[Lostidentity]

So the float needle valve seat that came with the kit does not fit where the old one does, I haven't tried oiling it which I just realized I probably should try.. Regardless I tried to insert it pretty forcefully and it wouldn't seat.

Any tips for transferring the o-ring to the old float valve seat, in case it wont fit with oil?

Also do you know off the top of your head the size of the float bowl screws and where to get replacement screws for the diaphragm cover? A lot of the screws on this carb are stripped and I've been drilling them out.

[92xjunker]

If it doesn't fit, you have the wrong kit.

[Lostidentity]

Huh, they sent me the wrong kit. Just checked my email confirmation. They were supposed to send me 1003-0259 not 18-5061.

Well that'll do it. I guess the carb rebuild is going to take a bit longer than I thought...

[skjeflo]

Also do you know off the top of your head the size of the float bowl screws and where to get replacement screws for the diaphragm cover? A lot of the screws on this carb are stripped and I've been drilling them out.

Can't say I remember the sizes, but what I did was hit up my local good hardware store and replaced all those screws, plus the ones on the rails and boots, with stainless hex cap screws. Just take one of each that you need, head for the metric stainless stuff and match up threads and lengths. Much easier to deal with than the JIS screws.

Yes, JIS, not Phillips, and that is the problem. When someone uses a Phillips driver on them it's not a perfect fit and it is very easy to mangle the screw head. They look like Phillips screws but are designed for a slightly different screwdriver head, Japanese industrial Standard. You can find the correct driver in some specialty shops but it's generally easier to just replace the screws.

[92xjunker]

Or PM arsenic, he'll sell you all you need.

[Lostidentity]

I'm going to PM Arsenic for the float bowl screws, can't find them at the hardware store but found suitable replacement screws.

New rebuild kit will be in semi-soon but in the meantime I found this weird "cap" on a float valve seat.

http://imgur.com/a/EpgsO

The cap on the bottom is from carb #1 so the one on the right when looking from back to front. The cap is on #2, so middle left. The hell is it?




Final embarrassing note.. any tips for removing stripped screws? I bought some bullshit screw extractor from home depot and it sucks. Titanium and cobalt drill bits seem to work but take awhile. I'm open to new ideas.

Can't say I remember the sizes, but what I did was hit up my local good hardware store and replaced all those screws, plus the ones on the rails and boots, with stainless hex cap screws. Just take one of each that you need, head for the metric stainless stuff and match up threads and lengths. Much easier to deal with than the JIS screws.

Yes, JIS, not Phillips, and that is the problem. When someone uses a Phillips driver on them it's not a perfect fit and it is very easy to mangle the screw head. They look like Phillips screws but are designed for a slightly different screwdriver head, Japanese industrial Standard. You can find the correct driver in some specialty shops but it's generally easier to just replace the screws.

Just as an aside, I have both JIS and Phillips. I read on here before about the JIS screws. I appreciate the heads up though, that seems to be an often overlooked fact.

[92xjunker]

I used needle nose vise grips. If they don't come out with those, you'll have to drill the heads off on them. Be real careful not to go too far. Pot metal is very soft. That's not a cap, it's a fine screen.

[Kreylyn]

What model bike is this?

Do you have some over all pics of the carbs before disassembly?

Krey

[92xjunker]

I was thinking that too, my RS carbs have screens.

[Lostidentity]

Screen came off no problem with the needle nose.

I still have carb #3 and #4 assembled. Didn't want to keep track of too many parts while I'm doing this.

Here are some pictures http://imgur.com/a/Sw7hi

Anything in particular you're looking for?

Bike is a 1999 Katana 600, model X (I think), non Cali. Are the wrong carbs on here?

[92xjunker]

They look right but, GSXR carbs look pretty close to kat carbs. Compare to these http://i.ebayimg.com/00/s/MTA2NlgxNjAw/z/nPcAAOSwnHZYapYw/$_1.JPG

[Lostidentity]

They look right but, GSXR carbs look pretty close to kat carbs. Compare to these http://i.ebayimg.com/00/s/MTA2NlgxNjAw/z/nPcAAOSwnHZYapYw/$_1.JPG

Those look exactly like mine, anywhere I can find a model # on these carbs to confirm?

[Lostidentity]

So 19E3
L872 is stamped on the carb

http://m.imgur.com/MIyg3UU