just bought this bike and the throttle doesn't turn. the bike was sitting for a while. I have the carbs almost off and the throttle cable seems to actuate but the throttle won't turn and also the sliders are seized. and ideas??
Ad Widget
Collapse
Announcement
Collapse
No announcement yet.
X
-
Tear them down and rebuild them now, not later. The throttle plates are seized in the bore. Not difficult to free but, if they're bad enough to be seized why not just clean and rebuild them now."I'm sorry, I didn't mean to upset you when I called you stupid. I thought you already knew..."
spammer police
USAF veteran
If your a veteran, join the KR veterans group
-
unsticky work
today I soaked the carbs in a circulating footbath of hot water and walmart superclean. got the sliders unstuck and the needles look really crappy - like they are not brass and won't clean up. I put them aside but will look closer and chem dip them before buying new. But the throttle is still quite stuck (I hammered on the throttle pull arm and got it raised about 10 degrees) but I don't think it's the plates stuck in the bores but rather the shafts seized in the carb body. I loosened both lock nuts on the shaft joiners (actually, one didn't really loosen but rather the shaft on that end rotated a little which is good but might be bad when I need to bench sync). So I'm soaking overnight in the footbath and I added a vibrating agitator which is a 120 VAC mini fan with 3 blades snapped off, I screwed the fan to wood and bonded the wood to the footbath.
But this must be a common problem for bikes that sit for too long. what have you guys done to rectify?? I have no problem going through a carb set if I can leave them racked together, but separating the carbs looks like a nightmare for me to put back together.. and then I'm sure there are seals on those throttle shafts... and I'm thinking that separating the carb bodies still might not unstick the shafts.. oh, and I imagine the throttle plate screws are peened over to keep them from spinning out and sucked into the motor, so I'd rather not remove thos screws....'95 gsx750F, '79 gs1000e '77 gs750
'83 xj550 maxim
'84 xvz1200
'78 cb750F3 & '76 FLH stroker
'80 fxs80 got whacked, only parts left
Comment
-
No, not a common problem. Must of sat in a very damp place. Try "Nut Buster" at the shaft entry points."I'm sorry, I didn't mean to upset you when I called you stupid. I thought you already knew..."
spammer police
USAF veteran
If your a veteran, join the KR veterans group
Comment
-
What those guys said. And stop beating on them with a hammer! You're likely to only cause more damage.My build thread (Black Betty) '97 600 (Dearly Departed)
http://katriders.com/vb/showthread.php?t=133286
2007 GSXR 750
Comment
-
gentle taps
haha, I wasn't using a hammer/
after the overnight superslean soak and a few shots of creep, I managed to work the butterflies loose (but not free) by working the nuts back and forth on the shaft couplers. I pulled the sync screws and hopefully my factory manual on the way will help set up for a bench sync. gonna get the bodies in chem dip but I bet Arsenic's secret is an ultrasonic cleaner.. (maybe I find a local guy to do that if the chem dip don't do.).'95 gsx750F, '79 gs1000e '77 gs750
'83 xj550 maxim
'84 xvz1200
'78 cb750F3 & '76 FLH stroker
'80 fxs80 got whacked, only parts left
Comment
-
Originally posted by GaryS-NJ View PostI bet Arsenic's secret is an ultrasonic cleaner.. (maybe I find a local guy to do that if the chem dip don't do.).Last edited by arsenic; 11-28-2016, 02:56 PM.
Comment
-
Originally posted by GaryS-NJ View Posthaha, I wasn't using a hammer/
after the overnight superslean soak and a few shots of creep, I managed to work the butterflies loose (but not free) by working the nuts back and forth on the shaft couplers. I pulled the sync screws and hopefully my factory manual on the way will help set up for a bench sync. gonna get the bodies in chem dip but I bet Arsenic's secret is an ultrasonic cleaner.. (maybe I find a local guy to do that if the chem dip don't do.).
C"I'm sorry, I didn't mean to upset you when I called you stupid. I thought you already knew..."
spammer police
USAF veteran
If your a veteran, join the KR veterans group
Comment
-
didn't want to seperate the carb bodies
Originally posted by arsenic View PostClose, but no. It's a blasting cabinet with glass bead. I blast the bodies, float bowls, etc. The jetting is all soaked in Berryman's. That's not a secret either. I tell everyone that tries to do a carb rebuild that turns out shitty. Basically, every time someone tries to rebuild their carbs, I tell them.
Isn't there an anodize on the carb bodies that would be bead blasted away? and yes, I'm sure the throttle shafts would loosen up quicker if I separated the carbs but I was hoping to avoid that. I like berrymans. funny, I got a gallon last year at autozone on sale $10 off (cost about $10) and recently, I bought another can there and whallop $29!. I was in walmart later that day because a friend was bragging about their Superclean (says better than simple green and berrymans and doesn't harm rubber/plastic if you minimize the soak..). the berrymans was $10/gal at walmart. I bought their monster jug of superclean and I don't think is works near as good as Chem Dip/
just pushing out the emulsion tubes and in three out of 4, the tubes are pushng out while the plastic slide holder is holding firm within the carb body. I'm using a metric bolt threaded into the tube which is a tad short but think I can find a dowel to finish pushing it through. once I get the emulsion tubes out, any ideas to get the slider holder free? And I'm guessing I should replace the emulsion tube O-rings. regular metric buna orings are OK? what about getting the one tube free from the slider housing? And lastly, partzilla doesn't show the slider holder as a replaceable part? Is this part of the carb body and so should it hold up to a berryman chem dip soak?'95 gsx750F, '79 gs1000e '77 gs750
'83 xj550 maxim
'84 xvz1200
'78 cb750F3 & '76 FLH stroker
'80 fxs80 got whacked, only parts left
Comment
-
Oh, you're trying to rebuild your carbs without separating them? Good luck with that one. All the fasteners are anodized, but I replace every one with stainless. Those two screws that attach each butterfly, them too. The upper and lower brackets are anodized, as well as the choke lever, but those get a new coat of rust inhibitor. I've been doing this for a number of years. I can't say I know everything, but I'm damn close.
EDIT:
It's actually a lot easier to unstick the butterflies when all 4 are together. It's pretty much always only one that's really stuck. Honestly though, it may seem like more work at first, but if you take them completely apart, it makes it a lot easier to clean everything.Last edited by arsenic; 11-28-2016, 08:25 PM.
Comment
Comment