[GaryS-NJ]

Those carbs are a thing of beauty. If I get the throttle shafts unstuck with chemdip and the super clean and working them back and forth does that man the shaft orings will be shot and leak air??

[arsenic]

No, those "o-ring" for the throttle linkage are felt, not rubber. They stop fluid, not air.

[GaryS-NJ]

Chemdip loosened one choke plunger but so seems I can't pull the plunger out as when almost all the way out, it interferes with a small external pipe (one for each carb directly opposite the plunger). I might be able to bend the pipe.

[arsenic]

Don't do that. You can't take the #2 and #4 choke plunger out until you separate the carbs. If you break that brass tube, you just created a giant clusterfuck for yourself.

[GaryS-NJ]

Big thankyou

Big thanks on above advice Arsenic.

[maniac1886]

haha, I wasn't using a hammer

OK good. But you DID say this:

"I hammered on the throttle pull arm and got it raised about 10 degrees"

Guess I took that litterally. Lol

[arsenic]

Big thanks on above advice Arsenic.

You're welcome, good luck

[GaryS-NJ]

#1 & 4 throttle shafts still sticky, emulsion tube plating

I got the emulsion tubes pushed out and then finger pressure and some creep (love that penetrating oil) got the slider guides out. So into a warm bath of chem dip with some agitation and now the #2 & 3 body shafts are opening and snapping shut but the #1 & 4 are still hard to turn.. I'm thinking another round of chem dip but started wondering where the actual bind is in those shaft assemblies.. I read somewhere if the throttles don't open/close smoothly, then remove the throttle plates and slide the shafts out as if the plates themselves hold the shafts in place.. kinda makes sense... so now I'm wondering how those plates/bores can be dicked up..


Oh, and the emulsion tubes were coated with rusty snot and cleaning them up I see a clear lack of plating.. assuming the top holes are not too ovaled, should I expect a life issue due to the missing plating??

[GaryS-NJ]

success, well kinda, I just wore them down. A few more hours in the chem dip without enough progress and I decided t remove the second rail so I could manipulate the problem carb shaft alone. I sprayed creep and worked it back and forth and it became fine. I did the other side too and but noticed that the Male and female T's are getting soft (they were outside the chem dip for the second try but I guess they already saw too much). I don't see the T's on partzilla. And are the slider guide 0-rings 10x1.5mm?

[92xjunker]

Try www.bikebandit.com or www.ronayers.com

[GaryS-NJ]

carb parts

thanks on that parts advice/ I've never used Ron Ayers but thought bike bandit was a bandit compared to partzilla. I thought partzilla was about best online for oem but I did find a guy selling parts for mikuni BST's, site called motolab. has anyone used them? https://store.moto-lab.com/bst36-fuel-system-parts I spoke with Derek at Motolab today about my order and he was very knowledgable on our carbs and offered some good info on carb slider support wear as it pertains to emulsion tube wear.. He actually measured the slider support wear and has life expectancy data (of course he sells these parts too). see his data on slider support wear here: http://www.moto-lab.com/gallery/sear...&SUBMIT=Search