[sr73087]

Ideally shouldn't the voltage at the coil be the same or very close to battery voltage? Seems to me like there is a voltage drop issue.

I'll clean those connections on coil since they do have some dirt and rust on them. Hopefully that is the only thing holding me back right now.

[Kreylyn]

Ideally shouldn't the voltage at the coil be the same or very close to battery voltage? Seems to me like there is a voltage drop issue.

I'll clean those connections on coil since they do have some dirt and rust on them. Hopefully that is the only thing holding me back right now.

Yes, the drop is a clear indication the connections are dropping the voltage causing the issue. Not only check the normal connection points, but also the ignition switch. in vs out has been known to be a large drop and an issue.

Krey

[92xjunker]

Ideally shouldn't the voltage at the coil be the same or very close to battery voltage? Seems to me like there is a voltage drop issue.

I'll clean those connections on coil since they do have some dirt and rust on them. Hopefully that is the only thing holding me back right now.

Yes, you need to clean ALL of the connections, not just the rusty ones you see. If the drop is there, it could be everywhere. For sure the key switch, it's exposed to water. Use dielectric grease on all of the connections to prevent it from returning.

[sr73087]

Checked the battery terminals and connections to the ignition coil. Cleaned the ignition coil connections and got the voltage drop to 0.3v at the primary side of the coil. The power going into the ignition switch harness has battery voltage to 5 of the 6 pins (zero voltage to 1) and then when I ohmed out the switch itself there was only continuity between the corner pins on both sides. One side ohmed at 6 and the other side at 19 ohms, which seems high. So I assume that is where the drop is occurring. Not sure how serious those numbers are.

I also checked the primary windings on the coils just because I was in there and 3.9 ohms right within spec. (2-4 ohms).

It still does not start with jump box on it. Will charge battery again tonight.

[sr73087]

And I will add a few more details.

The ignition harness pins were clean, no rust or corrosion. The ignition does have too much play and you have to "jiggle" the key to turn it. This however is purely mechanical and does not play any role in resistance correct?

Also, when I purchased the bike the previous owner told me it lost power going up hill initially and then died and would not start.

[sr73087]

9ish is going to be an issue. Try cleaning all of the plug connections to bring that up. Try jumping off a not running car.

Why not running? Don't bikes run 13-14 volts typically as well?

[shpielers]

Electronics aren't my strong point, but I've heard horror stories about running cars frying the bikes electronics. Guessing car alternators are pumping out way more voltage

[92xjunker]

Amps over power the system. It's designed for a battery 10x the size and 10x the load.

[sr73087]

Just tried to start it. Still crank and no start. Getting 9-10 volts to the coil. Battery static voltage is still at 12.6.

What circuits supply voltage to the coil? Just the ignition switch?

[92xjunker]

It runs threw a few switches, that's why I stated to clean ALL THE PLUGS AND SEAL WITH DIELECTRIC GREASE. don't forget the CDI unit and hand controls.

[sr73087]

Got it.

[Kreylyn]

The ignition switch is mechanical but also electrical. Your moving a connection internally to other points. If those connection points are loose, partially broken, dirty, or corroded, you would have a major loss in voltage. That's why you check both the in and out side of the ignition switch power.

Quick tip... if you just want to see if the bike will run... run a wire from the positive battery post to the coils and just bypass the entire electical system. Then try to start it with the battery. You should be getting the full 12v to the coils at that point. Don't leave the wires connected unless your actively cranking/running the engine.

Krey

[sr73087]

So I went through the bike and one of the connections was very loose on the CDI box, however this did not solve the issue. Currently I am getting 12.6 volts at the battery, but only 11.2 key on engine off at the coil and around 9 while cranking. Where is this voltage drop coming from? After looking at the wiring diagram I do not see a direct link between the ignition switch and the coil.

[92xjunker]

Copper will deteriorate in wet/damp environments, so, it could be all over. There are crimp connections in the loom, I soldered mine up. There are no direct connections to the coils, that's the problem. Every part gets it power first and just minimum size wires doesn't help. You can do the "relay mod" to get around it but, it should be your last resort, as the coil power on the relay will be the current coil +.

[sr73087]

Is the "relay mod" just a jumper cable from the starter relay to the ignition coils?

I am going to jumper it out this morning and see what happens.