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Carbs 100 / fuel dump

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  • Carbs 100 / fuel dump

    Carbs 101 is an excellent post, but I'm hung up right at the beginning on an item it does not go into detail on. Plus a couple other things have come up...

    1) How *exactly* does one remove the choke cable? Haynes has a little more detail saying to pull the cable casing away, but I don't know *how* to pull it away? I can't get my hands in there and prying with a screwdriver is getting me nowhere...

    2) Haynes also says to pull the a VSV. I see a VSV, but it's nowhere near being in the way from what I can tell. Is that really necessary? Perhaps my bike ('94 600) doesn't have the same layout they're talking about?

    3) While I was in there I figured I should check the coils, but I don't see them. Haynes isn't even clear on how many there are. How many am I looking for?

    Thanks guys!

  • #2
    Slide the choke rail back a little, slide the spring back and remove the choke cable from the rail.
    What? They are right there, on the frame rail above the cylinder head.
    Last edited by 92xjunker; 09-04-2016, 08:29 PM.
    "I'm sorry, I didn't mean to upset you when I called you stupid. I thought you already knew..."
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    • #3
      Choke cable removal...

      Pull metal end with curve, back so that the cable end can slide out towards the engine.









      Once it's loose, slide the spring up onto the metal cable bend to move it out of your way.



      Bend the cable down to align the cable with the slot to slide the end pivot out.





      And again, this time with the carbs off the bike so you can see clearly from the side what's happening.


















      Krey
      Last edited by Kreylyn; 09-04-2016, 03:42 PM.
      93 750 Kat



      Modified Swingarm, 5.5 GSXR Rear with 180/55 and 520 Chain, 750 to 600 Tail conversion, more to come. Long Term Project build thread http://katriders.com/vb/showthread.php?t=96736

      "I've done this a thousand times before. What could possibly go wron.... Ooops!"

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      • #4
        Should sticky that....
        "I'm sorry, I didn't mean to upset you when I called you stupid. I thought you already knew..."
        spammer police
        USAF veteran
        If your a veteran, join the KR veterans group

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        • #5
          Tim, you use socket cap screws (the kind you need an allen wrench to remove) for the throttle butterfly screws? That's interesting.

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          • #6
            Originally posted by arsenic View Post
            Tim, you use socket cap screws (the kind you need an allen wrench to remove) for the throttle butterfly screws? That's interesting.


            Yes, I hate screw drivers.

            Seriously, I do find them easier. They stay on the end of the bit so putting them in is really easy.

            Krey
            93 750 Kat



            Modified Swingarm, 5.5 GSXR Rear with 180/55 and 520 Chain, 750 to 600 Tail conversion, more to come. Long Term Project build thread http://katriders.com/vb/showthread.php?t=96736

            "I've done this a thousand times before. What could possibly go wron.... Ooops!"

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            • #7
              I don't ever plan on removing those. When I swap them out, I use SS phillips head screws, but I install them with red loctite. Anyone that thinks red loctite is permanent, obviously doesn't own a heat gun.

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              • #8
                *Excellent* pictures Kreylyn! Thank you VERY much!

                Confirms that I'm at least trying to do the right thing. No luck so far though, that first metal piece won't budge. I may be cutting the cable so I can free the carbs, and then trying to figure out what I can salvage/what I have to replace from that point.

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                • #9
                  That first metal piece = the choke rail? That's a problem...so moving the choke lever at the handlebar doesn't do anything? It's a little harder to get to move by pushing it down on the carbs themselves, I usually move the choke lever at the bar - better angle, easier to get to etc.

                  If that whole choke rail isn't sliding, when you get things pulled apart, check it for straight/trueness/warping. If it's binding somewhere, that's not good. Maybe it's just really dirty and kinda jammed up, but it could have something physically incorrect too.
                  1998 Katana 750
                  1992 Katana 1100
                  2006 Ninja 250

                  2006 Katana 600 RIP - 130k miles

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                  • #10
                    Oh, sorry, no not the rail. The choke cable elbow. Did NOT want to slide out. Finally broke it free tonight after about 15 minutes of beating it up. Choke cable detached finally! Yay!

                    Didn't mean to remove the airbox (as the instructions say to leave it on), but it fell off all by itself... Undid the 2 mounting bolts and it just fell right off. Sigh.

                    Got everything thing else loosened up, disconnected the throttle cable end, popped the carbs loose, pulled, and sudden stop. I guess the throttle cable doesn't just slide up through that funny looking nut on the carbs. Fiddled around with that for awhile trying to loosen it, came indoors for some Internet to get more info about it, saw Heeltoeclutch's post about the same thing. Will have to fiddle with it some more. Already tried wrenching at a 45 degree angle, but all I was doing was deforming the end. Will have to see how it goes...

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