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Funky Idle after revving

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  • #46
    Hi Guys. Cannot thank you all enough for the help, plus nice to talk to other kat riders. Thanks for pointing those out

    Float height was set to 13mm using a float tool... those are very helpful.

    Synced per the service manual and replaced with new vac caps and retaining clips.

    Have the A/F screws set to 2 1/2 turns out prior to sync.

    And also set the advance correctly to 3.8K Ohm per the service manual.

    None of that helped and I got tired of dinking with it and had an extra set of carbs I had just did a complete tear down on that I got off a running 2005 kat that was crashed.... rebuilt them just like the set on the bike with a 2 day soak in berryman's then all new viton o-rins and set float heights correctly with new vac caps and retainers and synced. Basically same procedure i did with the previous set.

    So I swapped out and at the same time, decided to tighten the carb boots a tad... being afraid to overtighten and break (been there before) I was careful not to overdo it... that seemed to do it as it is not hanging anymore but now I have a new problem

    I took it for a ride and man forgot how fun it is when it runs right. Pulls through all ranges, no drag, no hanging revs but, when I roll off, the idle drops down below 800 and bike dies intermittently. The slightest little twist on the throttle does enough to keep it running with no issues but don't want to have to do that all the time.

    At idle in driveway I have turned the idle screw all the way clockwise and cannot get it to idle higher than 1000rpm after warmed up. The idle screw will not turn any further. If I pull the chokelever it will rev quite a bit higher.

    Guess I could use some help on that, would that be lean issue or a rich issue?

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    • #47
      Usually a sagging or dropping idle is rich, opposite of a lean hanging idle. The idle adjustment screw is a problem, I have about 10mm (3/8") of thread on the adjuster left at a normal idle.
      FYI: Barrymans carb dip is much better at cleaning carbs. There is also a Gunk carb dip but, haven't tried it. Unless your in Canada or Europe it's readily available at wallyworld (Walmart) or your local auto parts store.

      The problem with your first carb set just might be that the pilot circuits just aren't clean enough.
      Last edited by 92xjunker; 08-04-2016, 09:01 PM.
      "I'm sorry, I didn't mean to upset you when I called you stupid. I thought you already knew..."
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      • #48
        Thanks 92xjunker. I thought rich also.

        I will pull tank off and turn the a/f screws in a 1/2 turn at a time.

        Is there any other reason it might run rich? I am not getting fuel in oil... oil level is steady on the mark. So if it is rich it would seem it is not the fuel float adjustment..... at least I don't think it would be.

        If I dial the a/f screws in and re-sync, hoping that will fix it.

        Are the other things I can look at that might be a possible reason for it running rich?

        stock needle and jets which usually run lean

        That is what I am using... got a big can of the Berrymans Carb Dip & Parts Cleaner.... the carbs where soaked in that for 48 hours .... interesting stuff but man does it clean.
        Last edited by scottscar54; 08-04-2016, 09:06 PM.

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        • #49
          It could be the float heights. Float heights are critical they control fuel enrichment as well as maintaining fuel in the carb. It could also be a leaking O-ring. Start by checking the plugs for carbon. It may not be all of the carbs having an issue.
          "I'm sorry, I didn't mean to upset you when I called you stupid. I thought you already knew..."
          spammer police
          USAF veteran
          If your a veteran, join the KR veterans group

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          • #50
            Rechecked and rechecked everything.

            Cannot exactly find the reason but it is running darn good right now.

            Went back through the entire process....

            120 & 117.5 mains, 15 pilots
            2.5 turns for the A/F screws was definitely the right setting
            rechecked the carb boot tightness.... they were all good to go
            did another synch to be safe..... seemed like it was still on the mark
            rechecked float heights.... still at 13mm and floats in good shape

            not sure what it is that did it but running dead on at normal idle, no more hanging idle on decel..... darn good bike to ride. Lots of fun so thank you all for the help... wish I could tell you which part did the trick but since I did them all then ran it again, could have been any single stoopid little thing LOL but glad it runs like it is supposed to.

            Had it out earlier and takes off nicely, especially compared to my 800 pound big v-twin cruiser.

            Thanks everyone!!

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