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Stiction Problem

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  • Stiction Problem

    Hey guys,

    So I just finished installing Racetech Emulators, new fork bushings, and seals. Every step was done correctly (trust me- I took my time and triple checked each step). The problem is that once the new bushing went in the forks assumed a high degree of stiction. Enough so that when I sit on the bike, if a gently ease my weight (225lbs) onto the seat the forks don't move AT ALL.

    What can I do about this? Is there an additive perhaps that can be mixed with the fork oil? Do I need to go through the trouble of trying a new set of bushings? Or will the problem just go away as the bushings 'wear in'?

    P.S. - The replacement bushings are OEM.

  • #2
    Wear in, they will slide better once oil is circulated threw the bushings.
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    • #3
      So in your other thread I believe you said you didn't put in any preload? Just curious, don't think it would cause the issue you're seeing (would cause the opposite I'd expect) even with springs proper for your weight, most people want some preload on there. I believe the Racetech instructions even go so far as to give a ballpark range.

      How much oil did you put in each fork? If you somehow overfilled it, that'd make for a firmer ride.
      1998 Katana 750
      1992 Katana 1100
      2006 Ninja 250

      2006 Katana 600 RIP - 130k miles

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      • #4
        Originally posted by shpielers View Post
        So in your other thread I believe you said you didn't put in any preload? Just curious, don't think it would cause the issue you're seeing (would cause the opposite I'd expect) even with springs proper for your weight, most people want some preload on there. I believe the Racetech instructions even go so far as to give a ballpark range.

        How much oil did you put in each fork? If you somehow overfilled it, that'd make for a firmer ride.
        There is currently no preload as the spring is plenty stiff per my weight. I added right at 500ml of oil per fork leg. Service manual calls for 497ml. I can actually 'feel' the stiction from the bushings as I manually compress the forks.

        Originally posted by 92xjunker View Post
        Wear in, they will slide better once oil is circulated threw the bushings.
        I took her on a 200 mile ride yesterday and still no change. Are we talking a few thousand miles for them to 'loosen' ??
        Last edited by signaramatn; 05-15-2016, 09:36 AM. Reason: Automerged Doublepost

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        • #5
          Something is amiss in there, should of been a little stiff for about 15-30 of riding. And you should have some sag and preload, the front should drop even with proper weighted springs, I would say you have too much preload. Some thing wasn't done right or a tuning procedure was skipped.
          "I'm sorry, I didn't mean to upset you when I called you stupid. I thought you already knew..."
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          • #6
            Originally posted by 92xjunker View Post
            Something is amiss in there, should of been a little stiff for about 15-30 of riding. And you should have some sag and preload, the front should drop even with proper weighted springs, I would say you have too much preload. Some thing wasn't done right or a tuning procedure was skipped.
            That would definitely be my sentiment too if I didn't already know that there is no preload. The preload hasn't changed, just the bushings and seals. Before bushings and seals, virtually no stiction.

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            • #7
              Originally posted by signaramatn View Post
              That would definitely be my sentiment too if I didn't already know that there is no preload. The preload hasn't changed, just the bushings and seals. Before bushings and seals, virtually no stiction.
              You are not saying what the preload dimension is, Only that it hasn't changed.

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              • #8
                Originally posted by Tmod View Post
                You are not saying what the preload dimension is, Only that it hasn't changed.
                Hi Tmod,

                Per the length of the spacers in the forks, the spring is not compressed when putting the fork cap back on.

                Is there something that I can do, modification wise, to the bushings?

                Also, Tmod, I used Racetech inner bushings and OEM outer bushings (racetech was out of stock of the outers). This shouldn't matter as the bushings dont actually move against one another but perhaps the OEM outers are more binding than the racetech outers??
                Last edited by signaramatn; 05-15-2016, 11:53 AM. Reason: Automerged Doublepost

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                • #9
                  Originally posted by signaramatn View Post
                  Hi Tmod,

                  Per the length of the spacers in the forks, the spring is not compressed when putting the fork cap back on.

                  Is there something that I can do, modification wise, to the bushings?

                  Also, Tmod, I used Racetech inner bushings and OEM outer bushings (racetech was out of stock of the outers). This shouldn't matter as the bushings do actually move against one another but perhaps the OEM outers are more binding than the racetech outers??
                  You need some preload usually around 15mm.

                  No do not try and modify the bushings, Did the forks slide free before installing the seals?

                  Race Tech does not carry the correct outer bushings anyway as they are OEM.

                  How did you install the outer bushings? And seals for that matter?

                  Did you check for bent fork tubes?

                  Sent you a PM with my number, Quicker that way.
                  Last edited by Tmod; 05-15-2016, 12:01 PM. Reason: Automerged Doublepost

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                  • #10
                    ^ He runs a suspensions shop in case you were unaware.

                    So couple things - you're not supposed to put the OEM amount of oil when installing emulators, so you might have overfilled.
                    B) I have the stiffest springs a 600 can receive, and a decent amount of preload. And the bike still settles a bit when i sit on it. No way yours should be not moving without.
                    Did you cut new spacers for the new springs, or reuse the OEM spacers? New spring with a different length would require a new spacer. And RT springs are a different length than stock.
                    1998 Katana 750
                    1992 Katana 1100
                    2006 Ninja 250

                    2006 Katana 600 RIP - 130k miles

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                    • #11
                      That's my guess, preload spacer wasn't cut.
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