[arsenic]

No, it'll idle fine, it just won't run right. You'll have flat spots in the RPM range. It's not worth the stuff you have to go through to gain nothing.

[skjeflo]

Sounds to me like it is idling.....at 3K.

I know it's not what you want to hear, but listen to Arsenic.

[RobertTravis]

9 Hg" seems awfully low for idle speed - but then again, you said it was idling @ 3k RPM. Not to be all 'captain obvious' but...is the idle speed screw that nudges the linkage too far out?

What about the idle mixture screws - the ones you popped the metal caps off of with the wood screw? Are they out too far?

Forgetting that this is a carb, and focusing ONLY on how vacuum works, you've either got a vacuum leak OR the butterflies are too far OPEN to allow the vacuum reading to be any higher.

The vacuum is like your shopvac. Put your hand over the end & it will pull (for this conversation - no way in real life) 20 Hg". Move your pinky finger off the end and let it bleed...it will only pull 15 Hg". Pull your hand away completely & it will pull 0 Hg".

If your butterflies are 'properly cracked' like a factory fresh bike, you should see at least 15Hg" and I would say closer to 20 Hg". If you open the butterflies even more, that vac reading goes down in a hurry - just like moving your hand off the hose.

If the butterflies are in the proper positions, then...you have a vac leak somewhere else. Could be at one of the intake boots or another spot. You have to find it before you are bald.

Years ago when I jetted my 1100, I read on here somewhere that the pods were more trouble than they were worth. As human nature would have it, "those dudes are morons...I'll get it to work"...getting the pods right proved to piss me off to no end. There was always a flat spot somewhere.

The pods came off, went on ebay after I decided to keep the stock airbox and filter. Then it ran tip-top.