Removing ignition cylinder

[niklecce123]

I'm having a tough time with this and I don't know where to start. I've heard of a triple tree and I don't exactly know what that is. I know the pre 98 Katanas had shear bolts? But I don't even know how to get to them. Please help.

[shpielers]

The thing the handle bars and fork tubes attach to, that's the triple tree. There's an upper and lower. You'll need to remove the top plate that holds the handle bars, and I think the top triple tree. Couple of bolts. I believe in remember the ignition being attached to the top triple on my post 600. Couple of security torx screws, and you're good.
But if they're sheer bolts, well, time for a manual.

[92xjunker]

I did it this way; Pull the front wheel and fender, take a drill and drill the heads off the bolts holding the ignition in. Remove the remaining threads once you drop the ignition out. You WILL need to order new shear bolts when you reinstall the ignition.

[niklecce123]

I did it this way; Pull the front wheel and fender, take a drill and drill the heads off the bolts holding the ignition in. Remove the remaining threads once you drop the ignition out. You WILL need to order new shear bolts when you reinstall the ignition.

I might just bring the entire tree to a locksmith. Should I remove the Alan bolts first? I took the nuts off last night and it didn't budge, I didn't really get rough with it tho...

[92xjunker]

?? I'm confused.. Allen bolts? Nuts? Are you talking about the top triple? It's actually too easy to remove the ignition switch, first block the bike up, remove the front wheel and the fender assembly (fender then the brace), get a drill with a bit just smaller than the bolt head ( which would be just a strange bulb looking head) drill through the center, till you reach the threads (part of the head may still be connected, that's ok) now pry the remaining head off with a screw driver, if the head is still connected ( real easy to do). Pull the ignition switch out and unplug it from the harness. If the heads can off while drilling the switch may just fall right out. Remove the remaining threads, install new/ rekeyed switch with new shear bolts ( heads will snap off once the proper torque is reached) plug the switch back into the harness. ( I find it easier to install the ignition in the locked position, it helps to make sure it is lined up correctly to lock the forks. Some have had lock problems after a replacement.

[niklecce123]

?? I'm confused.. Allen bolts? Nuts? Are you talking about the top triple? It's actually to easy to remove the ignition switch, first block the bike up, remove the front wheel and the fender assembly (fender then the brace), get a drill with a bit just smaller than the bolt head ( which would be just a strange bulb looking head) drill through the center, till you reach the threads (part of the head may still be connected, that's ok) now pry the remaining head off with a screw driver, if the head is still connected ( real easy to do). Pull the ignition switch out and unplug it from the harness. If the heads can off while drilling the switch may just fall right out. Remove the remaining threads, install new/ rekeyed switch with new shear bolts ( heads will snap off once the proper torque is reached) plug the switch back into the harness. ( I find it easier to install the ignition in the locked position, it helps to make sure it is lined up correctly to lock the forks. Some have had lock problems after a replacement.

I don't know what I'm saying Hahahaha. I'll take a look when I get home. thank you.

[niklecce123]

?? I'm confused.. Allen bolts? Nuts? Are you talking about the top triple? It's actually too easy to remove the ignition switch, first block the bike up, remove the front wheel and the fender assembly (fender then the brace), get a drill with a bit just smaller than the bolt head ( which would be just a strange bulb looking head) drill through the center, till you reach the threads (part of the head may still be connected, that's ok) now pry the remaining head off with a screw driver, if the head is still connected ( real easy to do). Pull the ignition switch out and unplug it from the harness. If the heads can off while drilling the switch may just fall right out. Remove the remaining threads, install new/ rekeyed switch with new shear bolts ( heads will snap off once the proper torque is reached) plug the switch back into the harness. ( I find it easier to install the ignition in the locked position, it helps to make sure it is lined up correctly to lock the forks. Some have had lock problems after a replacement.

I got it off! The Allan bolts I thought you were talking about were the ones that were black and held the upper and lower tree together.