Carb synch with auxiliary tank

[michelm]

I am synching my carbs for the first time with an auxiliary tank. As I started the bike, it ran smooth at first and then the idle went up to 3000 rpm.

I looked at the gas in the auxiliary tank and the level was going down very fast.

Do I have to let the carb reservoir fill and then turn the auxiliary tank peacock off?

Why would the RPM go up this way? is it because the carbs where turned upside down and the floats got stuck open?

Any help would be appreciated.

Something else, is there a trick to easily remove the vacuum caps? They are located in a hard to reach place and I heard people saying you just take them out with a plier even if you tare them and then get new ones. Is that the way to go?

Thanks,

Michel

[skjeflo]

I assume that since you say the carbs were upside down at some point they were removed from the bike?

Did you have them torn down for cleaning? Were they bench synced before they were put back on?

If they are clean then the aux tank feeding full time shouldn't matter. The float needles should shut off the flow when the bowls are full. If they aren't sealing then you would have a constant flow of fuel, eventually overflowing the bowl and draining either into the air box or into crankcase by way of the cylinder, washing down past the rings.

All that may or may not be the issue with your idle. If the carbs were removed and replaced one of the first places I'd be checking is for a vacuum leak. Was the vacuum line from the petcock to carb 4 plugged during your startup? If so then start checking the block to carb boots and the carb to air box boots for leaks. For that matter, is the air box and filter in place?

Removing the vacuum caps should be relatively easy. Did you remove the small wire "clamps' that help hold them in place before trying to remove them? If so grab the whole cap and give it a twist while pulling off. If you have a particularly tough one you can always pull the whole cap off and take it to a work bench to work on it.

[michelm]

Thanks for your response.

the Carbs where removed to allow for the removal of the valve cover. I did not clean them or do anything to them but I moved them around and tipped them.

I kept the vacuum tube on the No4 carb but the rest are disconnected as I am using an auxiliary gas tank.

Thanks,

Michel

[shpielers]

Is the vaccum tube on #4 capped off?

[michelm]

It's my bad. I had the throttle cable too tight at the carbs. I loosened it and all went well.

I took the bike out for the first ride of the season 3 days later than the official date of April 15 and the bike was great!

I got new caps and replaced the old ones as they were practically glued to the vacuum ports.

If I keep the Katana, I will develop / buy speciality tools to make servicing easier mainly in removing the front valve cover bolts.

Last but not least when putting the bike back together, I notice a large "unhooked" electrical socket on the front right side and a smaller one just bellow the tank / seat intersection on the left side.

I know the front right one is not supposed to hook up to anything as I did not disconnect sockets from there. Maybe a scanner port?

the small one on the left I don't know. I disconnected two sockets when removing the tank and carbs. One for the tank fuel level and the other from the throttle socket on the carbs.

Any info?

Thanks,

Michel

[92xjunker]

Nope, leave it empty.

[buffalobill]

Time travel?

I took the bike out for the first ride of the season 3 days later than the official date of April 15 and the bike was great!

Today is March 18th, how'dja do that?

[92xjunker]

I assumed, he has taxes on the mind.

[shpielers]

One of them is probably due the CA smog equipped bikes - they have a fan that blows on the carbs when the bike turns off.

[michelm]

March, April confusion is due to dyslexia.

Thanks to all and have a great season!

Michel

[jonathon1]

Good read for me. I set up a aux tank and was getting ready to do this but had no idea what to do with the #4 vac line.

[arsenic]

Good read for me. I set up a aux tank and was getting ready to do this but had no idea what to do with the #4 vac line.

Stick a screw in the end to plug it. Wait, you have a 98+, that's a totally different process. Remove the vacuum hose on #4 and put the manometer hose on the fitting.

[michelm]

Carb 1, 2 and 3 have vacuum ports on the side with a cap on. Carb 4 is hooked to a T shaped vacuum line. Each of these needs to be hooked to the manometer.

A screw between carb 1 and 2 (visible looking at the carbs from above) will synch these two.

Another between carb 3 and 4 will synch these and a screw between carb 2 and 3 will sink both pairs.

The caps are hard to reach and to remove. I suggest you remove the air box and the carbs. Remove the caps (I strongly recomend you have 3 new ones as they can be sticky and tear when removed) hook the manometer tubes and reinstall the carbs and air box.

Run the bike until it gets to temp. Turn the RPM to around 1750 and synch.

You then remove the air box and carbs when the bike has cooled, making sure you avoid twisting the carbs during the process. Place the caps securely and mount back the carbs and the air box and you're done. Need to turn the RPM down to around 800 RPM.

You can try putting the caps on with the carbs installed if you can see / reach them. It is better not to handle the carbs after they have been synched.


Michel