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Does the Kat burn oil?

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  • Does the Kat burn oil?

    I changed my oil today. I put 3.7 QT of oil. The old oil was slightly less than 3 QT. Where does the rest of the oil go?

    Last time I changed the oil, I put 3.7 QT. The engine was warm, and I let the oil drain for 20 minutes before I paced the plug back.

  • #2
    Well, lots of places, Timmy. Here, let Mr. Science explain...


    Some of that oil got vaporized in the combustion chamber during detonation events and blew out the tail pipe with the spent gases.

    Some of that oil got overheated, turned to vapor, and got sucked into the airbox. Of that which got sucked into the airbox, some of it went back through the engine with the fresh fuel/air charge and went out the tail pipe, while some just pooled there in the airbox (which is why you open the airbox drain hose & drain it at oil changes).

    Some of that oil simply wanted to stick to the surfaces it's attached to and didn't want to let go (especially if you used Group IV based oils, which have a polar attraction to ferrous metals in the engine and tranny).

    Some of that oil might have also leaked out elsewhere, like past certain seals (the oil filter seal is often a culprit).

    Depending on the brand and grade of oil you used, some of it may have simply vaporized in the pan (API standards for traditional motor oils permit quite a bit of evaporative loss before the oil ever gets close to it's vaporization point -- the JASO-MA standard doesn't permit that kind of loss).

    Finally, are you sure the containers you put the oil back into to measure it after draining were both completely empty, AND that you didn't fill them all the way up past the 1 liter mark (filling them to the neck will put just shy of 1.2 liters of oil in a standard 1 liter oil bottle).

    The fact that you only used 3.7 liters indicates to me that you tend to run your oil at lower levels and/or didn't change your oil filter, which is also holding some of that oil. Are you sure you're checking the oil level by the "book", Timmy? That means starting the Katana, letting it idle a few minutes, then shutting down and checking 45 to 60 seconds later... checking it cold (without running the engine first) will give you a reading that's artificially high, and checking it with the engine running will give a reading that's artificially low...

    All the 98+ Kats I've had take a quite bit more than 4 liters in conjunction with an oil filter change -- 4.4 to 4.7 liter would be my guess based on how much I have left over.

    The bike holds about 5.1 liters of oil all-together, and some of that is retained even during an oil change (between the upper engine, the tranny, the hexagonal patterns in the pan and the oil cooler). Without draining the cooler, you should be able to get more than 4 liters out easily during a filter and oil change over a 20 minute drain interval.

    By the way, oil consumption levels of under 1 liter per 3500 miles is considered a no-worry situation... But personally, I aim for 1 cup or less of loss per oil change interval, and would be topping off it I had lost 7/10ths of a liter in between changes. Are you doing your pre-ride inspections throughly, Timmy?



    Just teasing you on the whole Timmy thing

    Cheers,
    =-= The CyberPoet
    Remember The CyberPoet

    Comment


    • #3
      which is why you open the airbox drain hose & drain it at oil changes
      What are you talking about? Are you playing with my head CP?


      All the 98+ Kats I've had take a quite bit more than 4 liters in conjunction with an oil filter change -- 4.4 to 4.7 liter would be my guess based on how much I have left over.
      I am confused now. The manual says that 3.5 QT without filter, and 3.7 QT with filter. I let the bike run for 2 minutes, before I check the oil level on a flat surface, and the mark was full.

      I am using 20-50 Suzuki motorcyel specefic oil, and before you flame me it cost $2.69 per QT, so it is not much hight than good regular engine oil.

      What's up with that Timmy name?
      It will sound better on Sexwax....

      Comment


      • #4
        Originally posted by JohnE1000
        Airbox Drain Hose What are you talking about? Are you playing with my head CP?
        No, I'm not messing with you at all. There is a hose that goes from the bottom of the airbox to right by the right footpeg, and has a cap on it. Put something under it and uncap it with the engine off. Allow to drain for a few minutes... Under ideal circumstances, you should get less than 1/2 whiskey glass worth of fluid out every oil change (I get like 1/4 a shot glass' worth). Recap before starting the engine again.

        If you get a lot of oil (1/3 liter or more), then it can be a sign that there is something seriously wrong (such as a burnt or bent valve, or lots of blow-by past the piston rings).

        Originally posted by JohnE1000
        I am confused now. The manual says that 3.5 QT without filter, and 3.7 QT with filter. I let the bike run for 2 minutes, before I check the oil level on a flat surface, and the mark was full.
        As long as you're getting to the full mark measuring by the book, everything is fine. I just seem to always take substancially more than that... as do many other people's Kats... and always figured the numbers in the book were minimum amounts to the low mark.

        Originally posted by JohnE1000
        I am using 20-50 Suzuki motorcyel specefic oil, and before you flame me it cost $2.69 per QT, so it is not much hight than good regular engine oil.
        As long as it says API SF/SG on the bottle and not API SL, you're golden.

        Originally posted by JohnE1000
        What's up with that Timmy name?
        It will sound better on Sexwax....
        I was in a mood last night... and was thinking about those old Mr. Science episodes where the kid who had the questions was always named "Timmy"... you're right, it would sound better on SexWax...

        Cheers,
        =-= The CyberPoet
        Remember The CyberPoet

        Comment


        • #5
          I have seen so many different takes on the engine oil. Since this will be my first oil change does anyone have any suggestions on the type of oil to use? And should I wait until I hit 500 to change the oil or is it a good idea to do it between 200 and 300 then again at 500?

          Comment


          • #6
            Originally posted by fosdawg
            I have seen so many different takes on the engine oil. Since this will be my first oil change does anyone have any suggestions on the type of oil to use? And should I wait until I hit 500 to change the oil or is it a good idea to do it between 200 and 300 then again at 500?
            Personally, I think it should be changed at 500, 1500, 3000, then regularly. Engins take longer time to be broken down than many expects.

            About oil type, you going to get all responses. I use Suzuki motorcycle specific oil. It is $2.69 per QT. It is not expensive, and I get peace of mind.

            Comment


            • #7
              Originally posted by fosdawg
              I have seen so many different takes on the engine oil. Since this will be my first oil change does anyone have any suggestions on the type of oil to use? And should I wait until I hit 500 to change the oil or is it a good idea to do it between 200 and 300 then again at 500?
              There are lots of good oils out there, just look for something that is specifically JASO-MA and API SF/SG rated.
              If you've got lots of $$, Mobil 1 MX4T is a great choice.
              if you're planning on changing frequently during the break-in, I'd consider Castrol ACT/Evo which is fairly reasonably priced (and what I normally use for break-ins).

              Cheers,
              =-= The CyberPoet
              Remember The CyberPoet

              Comment

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