98+ Gxs600f Ignition Switch removal

[Crunch13]

So after getting my first bike (05' Katana GXS600f), I have gotten myself into quite the dilemma. The bike was purchased from a dealer, whom received it from a repo. So there is no key, no exhaust, 'extremely' dented fuel tank, and rear Axel is missing quite a few parts. I've always believed if you understand something first, then you can respect it and learn from it. So building this bike up will be a challenge and cost some $$ so any advice is helpful.

Step 1: Get a key! I didn't think it would be this hard to remove a key to transport it to a locksmith to have a key made. I physically could not remove 1 of 2 - socket head capscrews that holds the brake/clutch levers on the Steering stem, but I was able to get the Stem nut removed (30mm Socket head). Also the two screws on the sides clamping the Steering stem to the forks were loosened.

Any advice on further steps to remove the Steering Stem it to get to the ignition switch?

[ZukiFred]

If you have everything loosened you may need to tap the handlebar plate up off the forks. I used a hammer myself.

[Crunch13]

I thought the same, but damn I have to beat it like it owes me money.
Is there anything I'm forgetting to remove before I force this steering stem off these forks?

[92xjunker]

You may have to loosen the lower clamps also ( pinch effect, like chop sticks )

[Crunch13]

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This is what I'm working with; sorry theres no photos regarding to my question.

[92xjunker]

Have you tried to just reach up there with a drill and drill the heads off the security screws? Your going to have to do it anyway.. Ps you'll need new screws when you reinstall the switch.

[Crunch13]

Have you tried to just reach up there with a drill and drill the heads off the security screws? Your going to have to do it anyway.. Ps you'll need new screws when you reinstall the switch.

I have not tried that yet, I was intimidated on how little of room I would have to fit a t40 security bit in all that. And do they break off when you try to unscrew them? If so, then I wasted my money buying that security bit.

And if the heads break off, then how do you back them out?

[Purplehaze]

I physically cringed when I saw that fuel tank. Perhaps I can be of help with anything not regarding the ignition.

Best of luck on the rebuild.

[92xjunker]

I have not tried that yet, I was intimidated on how little of room I would have to fit a t40 security bit in all that. And do they break off when you try to unscrew them? If so, then I wasted my money buying that security bit.

And if the heads break off, then how do you back them out?

They should of broken off on install, they snap when they are properly torqued. Try to unscrew them, you may get to reuse those.

[Crunch13]

I physically cringed when I saw that fuel tank. Perhaps I can be of help with anything not regarding the ignition.

Best of luck on the rebuild.

Thanks @PurpleHaze
To get a key made for this bike, I literally pried the gas cap off since the tank is trashed. So today using just that I sent it to a locksmith to make a set of keys for 35$. I was able to salvage the lock for the gas cap, however the original 8-hole ring around the cap busted. So my plan is to remove the lock from the busted cap and install it on a new ring.

Tomorrow I plan to get some time visually inspecting the wiring. Any diagrams/tips/advice for this? *note this is a 2005

They should of broken off on install, they snap when they are properly torqued. Try to unscrew them, you may get to reuse those.

So if they do bust when attempting to remove them, how to I get them out *assuming the heads bust off* Thanks

[92xjunker]

Drill them out but, if they are still in one piece, then they aren't torqued. That's a plus....

[Crunch13]

I've read multiple forums. Can you verify if the Torque size is T40 or T45?

[92xjunker]

I can't remember because once you torque them you throw out the head.... not a common repair.

[cool4kats]

T40 security hex if I remember correctly. Napa carries them.
Just double checked. The T40 security hex is correct. I had to remove mine when I did my bar riser mod because I sourced a spare upper triple just in case.

[shpielers]

Definitely t40. Mine never snapped when I swapped to a 750 triple/risers....

Also your triple is slammed really low, your handling is going to be a bit wonky unless the rear was also lowered. If you know what lowering links look like, I'd recommend checking to see if they're installed.