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Dripping Engine Oil

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  • Dripping Engine Oil

    I have a 1989 GSX750F Katana and recently I’ve noticed a drop of oil on the garage floor directly below the “Signal Generator” cover on the right side of the motor. I remove the cover and found engine oil inside the cover. The oil pressure switch appears to be OK. To the right of the pressure switch, you can see directly into the engine and with a clear piece of Tygon tubing you can insert the tube directly into the crankcase and down into the oil pan. I have a Haynes Service & Repair Manual for the bike but it doesn’t describe this area of the motor very well.

    My question is, should there be engine oil behind this cover?

  • #2
    Yup, not a lot of oil, but it's the crank case. Of course there is oil in there. That's why there's a gasket on the cover.

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    • #3
      Yip, that's why there is a "drain" hole in the case.
      "I'm sorry, I didn't mean to upset you when I called you stupid. I thought you already knew..."
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      • #4
        Dripping Engine Oil

        Thanks, man. I've ordered a new gasket and that should clear up the mess. New question. I want to eliminate the stock (carburetor) air box and replace it with two K&N air filters, K&N P/N RU-2922. I understand that the BST36SS carb’s are tuned with jetting to have the stock air box in place. Running without the stock air box frees up the air flow into the engine causing the carb’s to run very lean and therefore damage the engine. The 1989 GSX750F stock jetting with the stock air box are as follows:


        Mikuni – BST36SS carburetors:


        Main Jets – Cylinders 1, 2 & 4 = 105
        Main Jet – Cylinder 3 = 110
        Jet Needle (Non- California model) = 5EZ62
        Needle Jet (US model) = Y1
        Pilot Jet (US model) = 32.5
        Pilot Air Jet (US model 1989/1990 Katana 750, Non California model) = 1.35 mm
        Pilot Screw Setting (US model) = 1.5 (lean) to 2.5 (rich) turns (CCW) from bottom.
        Fuel Float Height – 0.57 inches +/- 0.04 (14.6 mm +/- 1 mm)


        My understanding is, with the stock setup the bike runs lean as it is. However, you can adjust for a lean condition by using the pilot screw setting and the fuel float bowl setting to adjust for the lean condition using the stock jetting. By turning the pilot screw out from 1.5 to 2.5 turns out from bottom and increasing the fuel float setting from 0.57 inches to 0.62 inches you can richen the mixture thereby adjusting for a lean condition.


        When you remove the stock air box and replace it with the freer flowing K&N filers, the jetting will be wrong which adds to the stock lean condition. When you fit the K&N filters, the carbs will breathe better then with the stock air box, so do you need to rejet or adjust?

        My question is; where do you start? Do you start by adding the K&N filters and make adjustment to the pilot air screw and fuel float bowl setting with the stock jetting? Or do you start by rejetting for a rich condition and work backwards to lean out the air/fuel mixture?
        Last edited by Foo208; 02-22-2015, 01:52 PM. Reason: formatting

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        • #5
          K&N is not good on CV carbs, that freer flow is the issue. CV carbs need that resistance of a stock paper filter to operate efficiently. Nothing will be gained by using them, in fact quite the opposite. Search this site for all of the failures. It is possible to make them work, you will need a pile of jets and a dyno, expect the fuel economy to suffer.
          "I'm sorry, I didn't mean to upset you when I called you stupid. I thought you already knew..."
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          • #6
            Start by taking the K&N filters and burning them. Then put the stock airbox and filter back on and ride.

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            • #7
              yea man leave stock box on . i would never go with pod style filters. and just got done with countless hrs of tuning and ripping carbs off and reinstalls . if you want little better perf i would say a factory pro jet kit and sync carbs . could grind the header welds down and a ign advancer.

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              • #8
                I guess I’m sticking with that damn ugly air box.. Thanks guy’s..

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                • #9
                  Originally posted by Foo208 View Post
                  I guess I’m sticking with that damn ugly air box.. Thanks guy’s..


                  That's a really good idea.


                  There are many other issues you haven't even mentioned or touched upon with using the pods.


                  Incorrect fitment and thus the pods blocking the pilot/main air jets, no velocity stacks for proper air flow through the carb bores, no atmospheric balancing of the carbs due to individual pods vs external air pressures and flows, and so on...


                  Even if you did add cloth filter covers for the pods to decrease the free air flow, and properly tune the carbs, your still going to have problems.


                  Krey
                  93 750 Kat



                  Modified Swingarm, 5.5 GSXR Rear with 180/55 and 520 Chain, 750 to 600 Tail conversion, more to come. Long Term Project build thread http://katriders.com/vb/showthread.php?t=96736

                  "I've done this a thousand times before. What could possibly go wron.... Ooops!"

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