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Maybe its something that you have considered for a while now, but just haven't gotten around to doing it. Installing a jet kit, for me made a huge difference in my bikes performance. in my case, my Katana was radically modified, you can't even tell that my bike was once a Katana. After installing an aftermarket Yosh pipe I did notice the motor ran ever more lean. These bikes already run lean from the factory (so that they conform to emissions standards). With a larger more "free-flowing" exhaust the motor was put into a super lean state, I never paid much attention to this fact. I had no idea how temperamental and sensitive these bikes where to small changes such as an air filter or exhaust. Furthermore, I also deleted the factory air box and opted to go with individual pods that I found cheap on eBay. This combined with my aftermarket Exhaust made my bike run terrible( I thought it would be beneficial). Now in an ever more lean state, I decided to step up to jetting my carbs. Through days of research, I found that most companies offer jet kits in different stages. Which can be tricky, I have never installed a Jet Kit before, furthermore what stage do I chose? according to Dynojet and 6Sigma, they recommend that I run a Stage 3 Jet Kit. This is in part because of my inherent mods. The bike needs more aggressive jetting to run better.
Being that my bike is a Post Kat, it was born in 2002, according to dynojet they do not offer a stage three kit beyond 1998 for my bike. The only option for me other than sourcing each Individual jet, would be the 6Sigma jet kit. After going back and forth on emails, the professional people over at 6Sigma inspired confidence in my decision to purchase their stage three jet kit. For a mere 89 Dollars I received a small bag in the mail which consisted of a drill bit, to drill out the small metal covering the mixture screw, a small reverse tread screw to drive out the metal bung covering the mixture screw, three sets of main jets(125.0x2 127.5x2 and 130.0x2), also the kit came with four pilot jets and spacers for the needle. Its important to note the differences between the Dynojet and 6Sigma Kit. With a Dynojet Kit I am told you receive new needles and springs with the actual jets. The 6Sigma does not come with needles and springs. I was somewhat un pleased at this fact upon receipt, but then again Dynojet kits usually run upwards of 100+ dollars, and they did not make a kit for my bike either way. Now to the Install, first of off one must remove the Carbs from the motor, then dis assembly can begin. I started by taking the four screws off that hold down the float bowls. I have cleaned my carbs before so I was confident in my abilities to do this. I did notice its helpful to be very organized. Keeping note of order of dis assembly and not mixing old parts with new parts. In the written instructions supplied by 6Sigma, they state that the two inner cylinders #2 and#3 will have larger jetting, while the two outer cylinders #1 and #2 will have smaller jets. in my case I wanted to go with the biggest possible due to my mods. So I changed my main jets 127.5 on the outer cylinders and 130.0 on the inner cylinders. The pilot jets which are the longer ones are all the same, I simply swapped them out in all four carbs. Keeping note of the order I re installed the float bowls making sure the gasket seated well in the bowl. It would probably help to spray some carb cleaner or brake cleaner in the bowls before the install. Also make sure you do not disturb the float or bend the tab connecting it. Once the actual jetting is complete, you can move on to the slides and needles part of the install. Once you remove the top cover of the carburetors you will see a spring, and a rubber cup attached to the carb. Pull up on this rubber piece and it will also remove the slide and needle with it. The needle itself controls the orifice on the main jet. When the needle rises it allows fuel to pass through the Main jet, when its lower or all the way down, for example at idle, the main jet is shut or slightly open. Jetting not only involved increasing jet size, but it also pertains to the control of the needle. Some kits like dynojet offer adjustable needles, with little grooves that allow the operator to adjust needle height. In my case, 6Sigma did not offer adjustable needles, but the do give you shims to raise or lower needle height. To remove the needle from the slide simply pull with a needle nose plier on the white tab inside the slide. It should free it self. Once you isolate the needle, clean and inspect it for damage. Then you can reinstall the needle with the desired amount of shims. In my case I put two shims below the E-clip thereby increasing the needle height. I wanted my slides to rise faster to engage the main jets more frequently. You can play with this option without actually removing the carbs from the motor, just remove the caps off of the carbs and the slides to adjust. Repeat the shimming process to all four carbs. Once complete you reinstall the slides and springs with the caps. In my case though, I wanted my slides to have even less resistance, so I cut about and inch off of each spring in each carburetor, then reinstalled everything. Lastly, you must reset the mixture screw. The instructions according to Dynojet and 6Sigma are 3.5 turns out. In my case my bike did not have the metal covering the mixture screw, therefore I just tightened the screw until it was seated, then un tightened 3.5 turns out for each carburetor. This helps reset the carbs to accept the mods you have just done.... I believe that completes the Carbs for now, you just have to put them back on the motor and sync them back up. I do not beleive that there is a specific order on how to perform this. The way I am explaining it, is simply the way I performed the operation. It was really easy comparing to what I was expecting, just maintain organization, have a clean and independent workspace, and you can probably be done within an hour (once the carbs are off).
Being that my bike is a Post Kat, it was born in 2002, according to dynojet they do not offer a stage three kit beyond 1998 for my bike. The only option for me other than sourcing each Individual jet, would be the 6Sigma jet kit. After going back and forth on emails, the professional people over at 6Sigma inspired confidence in my decision to purchase their stage three jet kit. For a mere 89 Dollars I received a small bag in the mail which consisted of a drill bit, to drill out the small metal covering the mixture screw, a small reverse tread screw to drive out the metal bung covering the mixture screw, three sets of main jets(125.0x2 127.5x2 and 130.0x2), also the kit came with four pilot jets and spacers for the needle. Its important to note the differences between the Dynojet and 6Sigma Kit. With a Dynojet Kit I am told you receive new needles and springs with the actual jets. The 6Sigma does not come with needles and springs. I was somewhat un pleased at this fact upon receipt, but then again Dynojet kits usually run upwards of 100+ dollars, and they did not make a kit for my bike either way. Now to the Install, first of off one must remove the Carbs from the motor, then dis assembly can begin. I started by taking the four screws off that hold down the float bowls. I have cleaned my carbs before so I was confident in my abilities to do this. I did notice its helpful to be very organized. Keeping note of order of dis assembly and not mixing old parts with new parts. In the written instructions supplied by 6Sigma, they state that the two inner cylinders #2 and#3 will have larger jetting, while the two outer cylinders #1 and #2 will have smaller jets. in my case I wanted to go with the biggest possible due to my mods. So I changed my main jets 127.5 on the outer cylinders and 130.0 on the inner cylinders. The pilot jets which are the longer ones are all the same, I simply swapped them out in all four carbs. Keeping note of the order I re installed the float bowls making sure the gasket seated well in the bowl. It would probably help to spray some carb cleaner or brake cleaner in the bowls before the install. Also make sure you do not disturb the float or bend the tab connecting it. Once the actual jetting is complete, you can move on to the slides and needles part of the install. Once you remove the top cover of the carburetors you will see a spring, and a rubber cup attached to the carb. Pull up on this rubber piece and it will also remove the slide and needle with it. The needle itself controls the orifice on the main jet. When the needle rises it allows fuel to pass through the Main jet, when its lower or all the way down, for example at idle, the main jet is shut or slightly open. Jetting not only involved increasing jet size, but it also pertains to the control of the needle. Some kits like dynojet offer adjustable needles, with little grooves that allow the operator to adjust needle height. In my case, 6Sigma did not offer adjustable needles, but the do give you shims to raise or lower needle height. To remove the needle from the slide simply pull with a needle nose plier on the white tab inside the slide. It should free it self. Once you isolate the needle, clean and inspect it for damage. Then you can reinstall the needle with the desired amount of shims. In my case I put two shims below the E-clip thereby increasing the needle height. I wanted my slides to rise faster to engage the main jets more frequently. You can play with this option without actually removing the carbs from the motor, just remove the caps off of the carbs and the slides to adjust. Repeat the shimming process to all four carbs. Once complete you reinstall the slides and springs with the caps. In my case though, I wanted my slides to have even less resistance, so I cut about and inch off of each spring in each carburetor, then reinstalled everything. Lastly, you must reset the mixture screw. The instructions according to Dynojet and 6Sigma are 3.5 turns out. In my case my bike did not have the metal covering the mixture screw, therefore I just tightened the screw until it was seated, then un tightened 3.5 turns out for each carburetor. This helps reset the carbs to accept the mods you have just done.... I believe that completes the Carbs for now, you just have to put them back on the motor and sync them back up. I do not beleive that there is a specific order on how to perform this. The way I am explaining it, is simply the way I performed the operation. It was really easy comparing to what I was expecting, just maintain organization, have a clean and independent workspace, and you can probably be done within an hour (once the carbs are off).
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