Replacing Choke Cable

[jheld]

Hi, all. I have a '97 Kat 750 (FV) and the choke cable just seized today (stuck off). It was stuck open earlier but I used some WD40 to get it to loosen up and it has worked fine for about a week. I realized later, WD40 was probably not the best - should've bought some cable lube. At any rate, it worked fine this morning, then I ran the bike around for 2+ hours (it got pretty darn hot with all the sun and sitting in traffic) and stopped for gas (I let the bike sit, off, at gas station for about an hour). After I filled up, I went to try the choke lever and it wouldn't budge.

So, here's the question: Does anyone have any suggestions for replacing the choke cable? Also, where to get a new choke cable? (Or if this is something that can be fixed without replacing it, let me know!)

Thanks!

[ZukiFred]

http://www.ronayers.com/HANDLEBAR-C166196.aspx

Part #24

[Stumpy]

Try lubing the hell out of the original cable with one of those clamp attachments and wire rope lube.

Replacing cable is fairly straightforward. If you can change a guitar string you can do this Depending on the exact model of bike, it should go something like this.

Pop off the left side fairing, unbolt the tank and raise it slightly.

Unscrew left button cluster on the handlebar (careful not to lose the screws!) and you'll see the rocker for the choke/enricher. There's a metal cable attached with a cylindrical block in a groove. Release pressure on this gently and it should just pop right out.

Follow the cable, note it's routing, and you'll see a similar but not quite identical arrangement on the carbs that attaches to a brass bar that extends across all of carbs. It should just pop off.

Lube up your new cable.

Attach the carb end of your new cable to the brass bar. Tape the replacement cable to the end of your existing cable (choke end of new cable to carb end of old cable - that way it follows the proper route) and just pull it through until it reaches your choke rocker. Pop it in - job done

There are probably a million easier ways to do this, but this way keeps it easier for me at least.

While on this subject - why do some sources say never to lube wire ropes? I've been doing it forever on speedo, clutch, lock and throttle cables on bikes - but recently saw a warning in my car manual to never lube the throttle cables. What's up with that?

[jheld]

Perfect! Thanks, guys! I'll give this try in the coming weeks. It seemed pretty straightforward, just wanted to make sure there weren't any tricky things to look out for.

What I've been doing is using my belt to hold the clutch so I can pull the choke mechanism out on the side of the engine and hit the starter. Effective, but pretty ridiculous, especially when you take your belt off in public. I am eager to fix this issue!

As for the sources that say never to lube wire ropes - I honestly haven't the foggiest. Maybe it encourages rust or wear if you use the wrong lubes. I don't blame manual-writers for treating readers like idiots - there are enough out there (obviously, not you, of course). I do know that if a cable is to the point where it isn't operating correctly, it's probably just time to replace it (and take care of that one by lubing it when necessary).

Anyways, thanks again!

[steves]

You don't really need to remove the fairing. Just prop up the gas tank, disconnect the old cable from the carbs and bar control, then tape the proper end of the new cable to the end of the old cable and pull.

[KATANA-BRASIL]

And pass in the correct way in the frame