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Carbs 102 The video

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  • steves
    started a topic Carbs 102 The video

    Carbs 102 The video

    http://vimeo.com/67356693

    Part 2, putting them back together.
    http://vimeo.com/68095261 Carbs 102 Part 2

    http://vimeo.com/68097145 Part 3 setting float height
    Last edited by steves; 01-12-2016, 04:43 PM.

  • arsenic
    replied
    No, that doesn't come out.

    Leave a comment:


  • Cougar
    replied
    Hello to all, quick question, as you see by my finger there still something in the tube, does it stay there or it need to be removed? 2004 kat 750

    Thank You

    Last edited by Cougar; 05-09-2017, 01:43 AM.

    Leave a comment:


  • 92xjunker
    replied
    Can't question the jet size but, Euro bikes A/F screws should be around 1.5 turns out.

    Leave a comment:


  • Satnavjeff
    replied
    Carb problem

    Can anybody help me my gsx600f katana is running on 122.5 main jets an air/fuel is 2an a half turns out is this good I have a 4into2into1 with a beowolf can standard airborne an filter

    Leave a comment:


  • capsfan
    replied
    Thank you for your videos steves.

    Leave a comment:


  • 92xjunker
    replied
    On the back of the petcock

    Leave a comment:


  • jeromemullins
    replied
    I am trying to hook my carb hose up to my petcock how and were do all the (vac)go

    Leave a comment:


  • arsenic
    replied
    Why don't you just buy a manometer that doesn't suck? Start your own thread. .
    Last edited by ZukiFred; 08-22-2016, 06:56 AM.

    Leave a comment:


  • lake_harley
    replied
    arsenic....Thanks for the reply. After my last post I finally found something, after a lot of Google searching, that suggested that the counterbore went "up" into the carb bore. I'm pretty sure the previous owner had them "blunt" side up when I had the carbs apart the first time, so I flipped them this 2nd go around. It certainly runs better, but still not right. I think the next step is to sync the carbs with a set of vacuum gauges that I have. I HATE using them, with all of the needle flutter, but I guess I'll just have to tough it out and try to minimize the bouncing needles with the restrictor valves that are on the gauges. At about 4,000 RPM and above the engine is pretty smooth, but at lower, closer to idle RPM it gets really rough. This bike is somewhat of an "unknown commodity" at this point too, since I bought it in just barely running condition. I think a compression check and valve clearance check is in the cards too. It never ends, but sometime these kind of bikes end up giving a lot of satisfaction. That's the light at the end of the tunnel.

    Thanks

    Lynn

    Leave a comment:


  • Suzukikid25
    replied
    88 katana carbs

    New to the forum and sorry if this is not the place to post. My 88 katana is giving me HELL. only has 8k on it, bought it running and driving mint for 1000$. One day I went to start it and it runs but when given gas it stays at about 5-8k for a few seconds then slowly drops down. Put a carb rebuild kit in it, still doing the same thing (besides it finally stopped leaking gas). Bike idols fine, just doesn't wanna drop back down. Pulled the air box and started it and noticed the carbs on cylinder #1 was not going up, the other three were working fine. Also noticed in my travels that when the gas tank is on and secured the fuel line doesn't seem long enough and kinks up right out of the petcock. Bike is also being run with a fuel filter on the main line (how I got it). I can post a video of how it's running if possible. Any help is much appreciated as I'm about to put a free sign on it.

    Leave a comment:


  • arsenic
    replied
    The counterbored end goes up.

    Leave a comment:


  • lake_harley
    replied
    Please refer back to post #51 at the top of the page. The "Barrel" that the needle goes through is what causes my question. The one end as it's shown in post #51 is the end that is "counterbored", and the other end is just "blunt"....no recessed counterbore. Measuring with a dial caliper the raised ridge is within a couple thousanths of an inch of being centered end-for-end. The outer diameter of the ends (either side of the raised shoulder) is also within a couple thousanths of being the same diameter. The part will fit into the carb body either way, going in under the emulsion tube and main jet. Either way it barely extends into the main bore/throat of the carb body. I think the previous owner of the poor running '06 600 Katana I recently bought and have been working on might have had the carbs apart and I'm not sure which way the "barrel" should go in. I can't find any reference....anywhere, even in the service manual. Does the "counterbored" end go in first, facing the bore of the carb, or should the "blunt" end go in first? Since the tapered needle on the carb slide rides in the opening it seems it would be slightly richer with the counterbored end facing the carb's bore, and leaner with the "blunt" end going in first.


    I'd rather get this right the first time so will say "Thank You!" in advance for clearing up the which end goes in first question.


    Lynn

    Leave a comment:


  • thinedragon
    replied
    Carbs video

    Know this lies ahead cause CAL bike. great vid,Explanations carried it well. KUDOS
    Last edited by thinedragon; 08-18-2016, 11:09 PM. Reason: error

    Leave a comment:


  • loneraider
    replied
    The part that I don't get is ( all 4 fell out and I don't know where they go ?)
    WTF!!! There are only so many places an o-ring goes on a carb. Its a head scratcher alright. just guessing if not the pilot jet o-ring, not the needle & seat oring How about the needle ,clip & washer? Did someone use a rubber o-ring instead of the plastic washer? Stump the chump/

    Leave a comment:

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